IM BACK! I work on my Plymouth every weekend so you can expect weekly updates on this thing. This weekend, i ran into some other issues that needed to be dealt with. While mocking up the trans crossmember for the T5, i noticed even more rust under the floor, so i did what anyone of yous would do. I removed it all. Im so glad i did because now i can really clean up the frame and paint it some. I also have more room to see whats what under there. A big question i have is what degree do i aim the motor at ? I know engines are never 0 degrees straight. They are always a little downward . But whats the exact number? I also purchased the front shock mounts off of a 50s ford to relocate the front shocks. Im planning on going with the EMS universal floor pan (p#842) its a whoppin $500.00 but it seems like a really good floor set. Also need some input for a heater system in my car. What heater cores work best for this body style? What have some of you done? Let me know! Thanks friends
Generally, the flange on the intake that the carb bolts to is level to the world, when the car is at ride height. That sets the motor at about 3 degrees down in back. The world won't end if its off a few degrees. Why is there bondo spread on top of your frame? Its not hiding rust holes is it? Those motor mounts have bracing under them, and they are not just welded at the top, right? You also need to box in the part of the frame you cut out behind the upper control arm (in the last picture), presumably for fuel pump clearance. After you know how much room you need around the fuel pump, weld metal in the hole and close it up. I do hope the floors your putting in have body mount structure included with the $500 price tag because the little that remains of the original body mounts on the original floor pan are not enough support for the body. www.robertsmotorparts.com has a replacement heater box that works very well. Compact, easy to mount, heat & defrost options. Gene
ok so a few degrees back, but 3 degrees should do it. ill put it to three and see how it looks. In regards to the opening on the frame, you hit the jackpot. that is for fuel pump clearance. and yes I plan on welding it up. This goes hand in hand with the Bondo on the frame rails. No, there is absolutely zero rust on the frame, anywhere. I put Bondo on there to cover up the weld marks. Before anyone tries to be funny, they looked very good, professionally done. I just have a thing about the firewall and making it look at flawless as I can. that's all. I want a smooth, glossy finish. As for the body mount structure, originally, there were about 3 mounts that went from one side to the other, which i removed because the tunnel is going to be a different shape, so yeah, ill definitely put them on there but ill have to make my own to fit the new floor coming in. Thanks for the recommendation on the heater. ill look it up now.
There are a lot of books available that can help you put together a chassis. Usually, 3-5 degrees is the desired drop at the transmission tail shaft. Zero is what your'e looking for at the carb base. That frame bondo should be dealt with though, might be hiding some scary stuff
it's actually not hiding anything. the frame rails had a little perch from factory and I wanted them to disappear. That's totally my preference. I'm sure most others wouldn't have cared.
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