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Technical 1952 3100 Axle Shaft Seal Replacement

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ty C. Denton, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. Ty C. Denton
    Joined: Jul 10, 2019
    Posts: 57

    Ty C. Denton
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Recently I’ve noticed some oil on and around the right rear wheel of my 1952 3100 (original drivetrain, torque tube, etc.) which tells me I have a leaky axle shaft seal. Never having worked on a rear end of this vintage, I’ve been doing some research and have a couple of questions I was hoping the H.A.M.B. community could help me answer.
    1. Looking at the Master Parts Catalog, the original seal part number was #592441. Through some research, I found that this part was superseded by #3814280. I found one on eBay and it’s on the way—original style leather seal. Is there a modern equivalent that would be better or is the original leather seal the way to go?
    2. Looking at the exploded view of the rear axle ***embly, there appears to be a gasket on the backside of the axle flange between it and the oil deflector and another between the front side of the axle flange and the drum. The oil deflector gasket looks to be held in by the wheel studs. I don’t have a press to remove the studs—is replacing this gasket necessary when only doing a seal replacement?
    3. I have the ’52 shop manual and I found a link to the “Rear Axle Overhaul for P***enger Cars and ½-Ton Trucks” manual—both of which lay out the procedure that seems to be pretty straightforward. The procedure shows using tool J-1436 to remove the seal, bearing, and bearing retainer. If all I’m replacing is the seal, I ***ume it can be removed by itself without removing the bearing and retainer, correct?
    4. Lastly, when replacing the diff cover gasket, the manual doesn’t seem to call for any RTV or the like—is this correct or would a little RTV be a “better safe than sorry” move?
    Sorry for being so longwinded, but I want to be sure I have all my ducks in a row before tearing into this. As always, thanks in advance for the help!
     
  2. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,509

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    The leather is fine, just soak it in neatsfoot oil for a day before you install. None of the old days paper gaskets are needed, and the diff. cover needs no glue. I'd coat the threads on the bolts with 3H Permatex.
     
    Ty C. Denton likes this.
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    Carefully inspect the axle, especially where it rides on the bearing, see if it's worn. Sometimes a leak is a symptom of a bad bearing and axle.
     
  4. Ty C. Denton
    Joined: Jul 10, 2019
    Posts: 57

    Ty C. Denton
    Member
    from Austin, TX

  5. Ty C. Denton
    Joined: Jul 10, 2019
    Posts: 57

    Ty C. Denton
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Does anybody by chance have a source or part number for the 52 3100 differential cover gasket? Chevs of the 40's has it cheap, but it'll cost me more than twice as much to ship it from them ($16 to ship a $6 gasket). I found this one on Rockauto which crosses to the original part number (370245)—anybody know if this one will work?
     
  6. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,147

    KenC
    Member

    Not original, but I use one of the RTV gasket makers a lot of similar applications. Just don't slop it on so that it runs out everywhere. I where cheap vinyl gloves an spread it evenly with my finger. Handy, no leaks, no wait for shipping, etc.
     
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  7. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,509

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Go to your parts store & buy a sheet of gasket paper as big as the cover. Lay your cover on it, & using a pen or pencil, trace the diameter & bolt holes onto the paper. Then cut your new gasket out with a sharp instrument ... be sure to buy fairly thick material.
     
    Ty C. Denton likes this.

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