Bought a new project 52 customline that doesn't run. Hooked up battery and attempted to fire, no joy. No noise, no smoke, no burning smell just nothing. Charged battery, replaced starter relay, cleaned all battery, relay and starter connections. Same result, no nothing. Any leads in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Need to check if it’s getting voltage to the coil from the switch. Is the distributor getting power. Is the distributor sending anything through the plug wires. Need spark. Old wiring? Check for broke wires, check and clean grounds. Points and condenser? Good? But diagnosing any unknown engine, a compression check is a good start. Doesn’t hurt to check for any stuck valves. after getting a spark, check fuel. Is any getting to the carb. Is the carb squirting any.
Negative or positive ground? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ord-6-cylinder-positive-ground-system.854118/
I drained/refilled oil, drained gas tank and cleaned the lines, drained cooling system and refilled. Poured a little mystery oil in the cylinders and let it set. Just trying to bump the engine over but like I said turned the key and nothing. Tried a remote start with same result. On another note attempted to try horn, headlights etc and same result, nothing it's as if the battery isn't even connected.
Here is a truck link. Might help. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/873011-52-ign-switch-help-3.html
Check to see if the switch is getting power Battery hooked up properly. (Sorry. Had to ask) Check if the fuse panel is getting power. I think I’d start from the source and work my way forward
Don't see a fuse box anywhere, from what I've researched there is a circuit breaker under the dash. Going to look there tomorrow as something is stopping the power from engaging the starting system.
Relay switch? Put a test light on it and with remote start yes. Stops there. Doesn't flow to starter, and that's why I replaced the starter relay. Same same with new one.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1124287-starter-switch-and-starter-solenoid.html some more from the truck site. The truck is probably the same here. It’s positive ground. 6v likes grounds. Make sure they are all clean and connected. A test light might come on but not enough voltage to do anything else. Locate a voltage meter. Even a cheap analog one is better than a test light.
If original, power goes from the battery side of the solenoid, through the horn relay, and to the ignition switch. Also from that solenoid connection to the generator relay and to the ignition switch. Check for voltage at the battery side of the horn relay. Highly suspect if nothing is working that it is a ground problem. If the positive cable is grounded to the motor block, is there a ground strap from the motor to the car body? Did you replace the starter relay with a 6V one? There are two fuses and a circuit breaker under the dash but doubtful that is the problem. I have a 52-54 Ford shop manual with wiring diagrams. PM me if needed.
Are you saying that it the starter does not even attempt to turn over when you turn the ignition switch.
Generator relay? Where is that located? Will check for ground strap from motor to body. Yes replaced with a 6v starter relay. Pic of wiring diagram would be very helpful
Correct. Battery connected properly, positive to ground negative to starter relay. Attempt to turn ignition switch and nothing. No click, no nothing as if the battery was dead. No horn (not sure it even works) and no headlights nothing.
You can purchase wiring diagrams online or find a service manual. All I’ve been able to locate are truck diagrams. Horn relay should like like this Generator relay/regulator should look similar to this
What I would do now is to put a wire on the terminal that appears to have the Red/White wire on it Starter Solenoid ( on this diagram ) then touch the other end of the wire onto the battery Negative terminal. The starter should now turn, if it does you have eliminated a fault with starter relay. If the starter does not turn would say you have a fault with the relay. If the starter works you will need to check with a multimeter the continuity of one of other wire that goes to the horns relay. If okay then check for continuity between that terminal on the horn and all the terminals that go onto the Ignition switch. If a drawing of what I am saying to try would help let me know and I will do a drawing. https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/1952-1954-ford-turn-signal-wiring-color-codes-388345.html
The diagram in my shop manual shows the generator regulator (relay) picking up power from the center post of the horn relay in 52. While the horn relay is mounted on the firewall, the generator regulator is mounted on the driver's side inner fender. The wiring diagram in my manual is so small that scanning and emailing it would result in it being unreadable. Reproduction 52-54 Ford shop manuals are available. Highly recommend you get one as it will be needed the first time you do a front end alignment. Something else to confirm other than the ground strap would be to verify the wire between the stater solenoid and the horn relay is not broken.
I will check all wires a horn relay and regulator. However found no ground from engine to frame or firewall.
A totally off-the-wall suggestion here. If my memory is correct (and I have been known to be wrong) the starters on some of those early Fords have starter drive similar to what was used on some 40’s - 50’s Farmall tractors. You will hear a soft ‘click’ and the starter will jam into the flywheel and lock the engine tight. Check to see if the engine is locked. If it is, easy fix - loosen the starter bolts enough that you can wiggle the starter around (you don’t have to remove it), bolt it back up and it should work. Happens often on my Farmall H because I’m too cheap to buy a new starter or drive….
Update, worked on the issue a little today. Power to relay and starter. Starter spins with a jumper. No power to center terminal on horn relay. Power to bat terminal at voltage regulator. Unwrapped wires from horn relay to voltage regulator. No cuts or bare wires found. Went under dash, replaced both in line fuses one for lights the other idk. Lights now work. Still no start from ignition switch. Wiring under dash is unmolested like perfect. Ignition switch?? Is there a way to test ignition switch?
No power at center post of horn relay and wires are in good shape no cuts or bare wires. Voltage regulator has good power to bat terminal. Any thoughts?
Since the lights are now working, there is power into the dash. From under the dash, test the battery post on the back of the ignition switch. It will be the large center one. If power there, turn the key to start and see if you hear the solenoid click. If it does not, either the switch is bad or the start wire (red with a black stripe) to the solenoid is broken. If it does, have someone hold the key in the start position and test the starter post on the solenoid to see if it has power. If it does, either the starter or starter cable is bad. This assumes the ground cable from the battery to the block is good. You can test the switch in place, but it is a pain. An ohm meter with alligator clip ends works the best. Disconnect the battery and clip one lead on the switch center post. There should be 3 other posts- run, acc (accessory), and start. Clip to each post and test one at a time.
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