1953 chevy belair v8 swap help!

hey guys does anyone know what would be the easyiest way to install a sbc into my 53 belair? well i mean engine and******* mounts? or is there a place to buy bolt in ones other than walton fabrication

 

I found these:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2728070

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-2647.html

You should be able to find mounts for the stock frame, the engine being the hardest. The******* mount is basically a cross member with a tab for the transmission mount. You could even go as far as a later model front clip and add disc brakes in the process.

 

Walton Fabrications. Both the motor mounts and the trannie mounts. I have these in my 54, and we have installed them several customers cars. If you need any advice, send me a pm.

 

as Katula said ..Walton Fab..nice stuff. works right. looks good.

 

In the Feb. 1968 HOT ROD MAGAZINE they do a 53' Bel Air hardtop/57' 283 swap, and, THEY DON'T CUT/REMOVE THE FIREWALL SUPPORTS! Then in April they follow up with a rear end swap from a 57' Chev also. For the engine swap they used a Hurst saddle mount, electric fuel pump, 265 end dump exhaust manifolds, Powerglide trans (cast iron unit), after market rear trans support, and modified the acclerator linkage. They moved the radiator forward and had to do a little metal trimming to make it fit. Converted to an Ansen Posi-Shift floor shifter. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

When I did my '54 Chevy I got my stuff from http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/

 

I think the National Chevy****ociation (http://www.nationalchevyassoc.com/) should have everything you need.

 

chassis engineering makes bolt in side mounts. the rubber donut kind. drill out the spotwelds in the firewall supports to remove them.

I don't think you will be able to install a trans without cutting and welding, so spending money on a******* mount is a waste. if you can install any of the trans mount "kits" for these cars you can make your own.

 

I got a "bolt in" trans mount from RB's. It actually went in fairly easy and has worked great. My mounts are Trans Dapt units...not the best, but they seem to work fine. They are also "bolt in", but after bolting them in I welded them just to be safe.

 

lots of info here www.chevytalk.com post some pic's of your project.

 

Back in the 60's they made an adapter for the stock trans to mount up to a small block V8. I had one in my 51 Chevy pannel truck. Then just welded in some side mounts. worked for many years. John

 

my motor mounts from http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ , and my friend and i made this******* mount from metal laying around

 

were a walton and chassis engineering dealer

 

These are mounts from TCI. The trans mount is a Walton. Worked out very well.

 

i got my stuff from Total Cost Involved. They're weld in ones though

http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/productdet.cfm?prodID=975

 

this crossmember is for a 700R4 trans which has the mount further back than a turbo 350. I don't recommend hacking out the center of the original crossmember and leaving it hanging in the breeze. there is a lot of your frame strength there in the original set up. it is all tied in with your outer body mounts.

I built it so I can remove the trans without taking out the motor.

 

I used C. E. bolt in Motor mounts and I fabbed my own******* mount. MAKE SURE YOU TRANS MOUNT IS REMOVABLE, or if you ever have to pull the motor to remove the*******. Todd





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HELLO , COULD YOU TELL ME MORE ABOUT THE 54' MOTOR MOUNTS & TRANS MOUNTS YOU USED . WERE THEY FOR A SBC 350 & TH350 TRANS? ABOTU HOW MUCH WAS THE COST & ONE MORE? WERE THE ENGINE MOUNTS WELD IN's ? thanks for any help

 

????

 

Hi, I know this is a super old thread, but did you guys have to remove the factory hand brake brackets to get the motor in? I got the Trans Dapt motor mounts, and I don't want to drop the motor in and out 3 or 4 times as my garage*****s. I would like to keep the factory hand brake cause I think it's cool, but if the brackets need to be removed, I guess it will just be for looks unless I can come up with a full cable setup or something.

 

we used a Hurst mount and a flat plate of 1/4" steel with some holes drilled in it 1963 to do it. Front mount was less than $30 back then with Ford donuts.

 

I have a buddy that runs a machine shop, and he has a plastic engine block for mock ups. I am going to borrow it, and see if I can shove the motor forward far enough to still use the factory e-brake brackets, and have the water pump clear... I used a long water pump because I didn't know- I plan to possibly run electric fans in front of the radiator pushing towards the motor if I don't have enough room for a fan...

 

A foot operated pedal mounted to the left kick panel works. RC did a series on the V8 in a 53 in the 90's. I used their suggestion on a 54 way back then. It worked like a dream. Problem is I don't remember what the pedal came off of.

 

This is the way to go for the price no brainer
http://www.waltonfabrication.com/19chpacarv8m.html

 

Good idea to use the light weight plastic engine for mock up. I second the recommendation for moving the e-brake to left side and use either pedal or pull handle type actuation. Pusher fans on the radiator should be a last resort...they may be useful at idle, but they block a significant amount of needed airflow through the radiator at cruise. Puller fans seem to work best overall.

Ray

 

I already have my motor mounts- I have the Trans Dapt clamshell style ones.

I think the brake lever most people used was from an S10 or something similar. I just like the one on the dash- Maybe I can convert it to be just a cable not the linkage that's under there...

 

There are cable operated types that mount like your original lever style. I think that's what my '47 Ford had, and I know there are others out there as well.

Ray

 

You know, I was just thinking, if the exhaust is what holds me up from clearing the e brake cable, and since I am not running power steering, theoretically I could run 2 passenger side exhaust manifolds, and have the exhaust come out the front of the drivers side of the motor, and cross below the steering or the oil pan... It may not work, but it might...

 

I just relized this thread is 10 years old I hope he found his mounts by now

 

Early Chevy V8s ('55/'56 for sure) had a left side forward outlet exhaust manifold. However, the stock steering linkage arrangement on '49/'54 Chevy cars is VERY busy on the left side of the engine and at bottom front with the pitman arm, drag link and bell crank****emblies. Your thought is worth examining but if that doesn't work out there are numerous stock SBC manifold configurations to choose from. At least one of them should be compatible. A good place to find the variations in picture form is to google 'replacement' manifolds for SBC applications.

Ray