1953 early hemi to A833 transmission adapter?

So is there any suggestions where to look for help to get them together?
I believed there was many places where to find that adapter for my hemi but it seems that now when i need it they don't make those anymore for 1951-1953 that extended block?
So if someone knows where to buy or you got a spare or otherwise extra copy of that adapter i would be very intrested?

 

There is a company making adapters. I think they sell through Hot Heads.com or one of those early hemi parts sellers. I have made one for the volare overdrive 4 speed trans but I will wait till he answers first. And he will. I am sure. The thread was only a month ago.
Don

 

Click on the banner in my signature line and you'll find everything you need to know.

Buy from Pat at Wilcap. He sells them.

 

Greetings eker, Welcome to the Hamb
Since you are 'across the pond' perhaps it makes some sense to consider making the adapter yourself. Of course a lathe is required but if you have access to one and can obtain a piece of aluminum about 1.75" thick then the rest is pretty straight forward.
Send a PM if you want the details, I won't bore everyone else....

.

 

Shame on you Gary! Now it's going to be required that you do a tech post on doing EXACTLY THIS.

 

Thanks for quick replys!

I haven't been able to find it from those pages, only in wilcap but from there we haven't got no replys in finland for some time and there is not price for that extended block version.
I think i must do it my self but i still need a flywheel to get it measured and i wonder is the flywheel same in this early 51-53 hemi and will it fit cause again there is diffrent information occured for that.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318415&highlight=transmission+adapter
look at this thread. Same problem differnt vehicle but simlar in every respect. poly and hemi essentially the same block (except 318) Poly normally called a Windsor but otherwise same block excelpt for a bit of wierd machining for the uper set of pushrods. All the info and links your looking for are here.
Don

 

You have to call Pat. He does not return emails in a timely fashion. He's too busy, but I guess that's a good thing.

The adapter you want is simply a large disc (as mentioned before) and is reasonably priced. Check with MAW here on the HAMB. The VERY adapter you need is right here in our shop and I think he's pretty set on p***ing it on with an A833. You can find his name in my "friends/contacts" or just look thru the "members" list for his name.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Also, do an intro in the "Introduce Yourself" section so we can hear more about you and your project.

Cheers!
Scooter

 

Hey Scooter...que pasa? As soon as the building is finished I might have some time for 'project' like this...hahaha
Send me a pm and update your project.

Later

Gary

 

I'm working on getting a '55 Dodge 270 truck Hemi and already have an A833 ******. I suppose I'll need to get an adapter for those to work together?
And a related question: if an original Dodge Hemi 270 engine is getting tired, can it be successfully rebored .30 or .40 over? Or, is there not enough meat in the 270 block (because at standard bore, its already really an overbore)?

 

If you're talking about a stock bore on a Dodge 270 being bored .030 or .040 over than YES, shouldn't be an issue. No matter what you are thinking of doing, a sonic check will be required to see how thick the walls are.

You will need an adapter bell and plate for any short bell motor. Very different from the engine in discussion.

 

Hello and thanks for all for unblievable fast and accure help in my case of fitting this together, i was amazed how fast this help came and how many of you were intrested of helping this is great community and nice people overhere!!
I think my problems for now are solved for now on, i try to manage but my information and some pictures as soon as i can i think i own that for all you helped in this case...

..Eker..

 

Stick around Eker. You are right! There are some good folks and there is lots of info and knowledgable people around here that can help you. Welcome to the HAMB!

 

You might also consider having the extention removed (cut off and machined), and the bellhousing bolt locations drilled and tapped...

 

I hear this come up quite a bit, but I don't see why people are interested in such a risky meneuver when an adapter is available... Maybe one of these days, someone will do a tech on cutting one down. I could understand if you had an automatic trans you wanted to run, but for manual transmissions it seems like a big risk.

 

NO monetary advantage in cutting the block. NONE. Basic and quick calculations will tell you that a couple of hours in a large vertical mill (to remove the extension), then several more hours fabricating a plate, then many hours heating the block and welding the plate on, then back to that large vertical mill (to surface the plate and locate and drill the new bolt pattern), then additional, and previously unwarranted machine work at the automotive machine shop to make cam and crank bores straight.........

Right now ebay has several 354 on the block, hell, scooter might sell his damaged block and even with 8 sleeves it would be cheaper than cutting off the long bell....***uming that it is done properly.

There must be a bunch of rich guys on this site. Maybe one of them would like to adopt an adult son.....


.

 

Word!

 

This Exactally what i have on my DeSoto.

'55 Dodge Truck Bellhousing & a Simple Flat plate made into an Adapter to hold an A-833 MoPaR 4spd.

Pretty Easy part to make & a Mill is Recomended for Accuracy.

As for the Long Bell adpaters, Like Every one says they require a Flat Plate for about ANY trans 'Cept an Early Ford.

I never understood why People think these arent good for anything, They are the EASIEST to make an adapter for.

 

I agree and I'm okay with people thinking that because it keeps the prices low. For that matter, I think the long-bells are ideal for a manual trans setup because ONLY a plate is needed. The short bell blocks require multiple adapters. Less parts = less chance of misalignment.

 

Oh please, please bore me... Bore me to death!

I'm serious, I'd very much like to see this one!!!!!

 

OK, I'll put some notes and sketches together. Might take a couple of days.

Gary

.

 

Going back and rereading some of the posts, I see that scooter actually has one of these adapters....maybe if we all asked reeeeaaalllll nice he would post pics, sketches and dimensions.

In lieu of that, and for those that want the basics, here goes.
I have simply gone to the pile and pulled out pieces as needed for measurements. Some numbers will be more consistant than others.
The following information is for the A-833 trans, however, by subs***uting the dimensions of your trans parts (t-5 or whatever), you can build an adapter for any manual trans. I think that the single critical ***embly issue is to have full engagement between the input shaft splines and the hub of the clutch disc so juggle your numbers to accomodate this.

1. From the face of the flywheel to the face of the block extension I measure 4". The flywheel I used is a 146 tooth variety that weighs approx 35lbs. Heavier wheels may be fatter and the dimension may vary. Aftermarket wheels, including alum parts, may also have different dimensions.
2. The clutch disc I used has a total hub thickness of 1½". From the face of the flywheel the hub projects 1¼" to the rear. These dimensions may vary between manufactures as well as being affected by the thickness of the friction marterial. From the end of the hub to the face of the block extension I measure 2.75".
3. The A-833 trans has the following dimensions:
..from the mounting face to the end of the bearing retainer...4.25"
..from the end of the bearing retainer to the end of the splines...1.75"
(this dimension is a bit sketchy due to the generous bevel at the lead-in)
..from the end of the spline to the end of the pilot...2.5"
4. The ***umption is made that we do not need to have the shaft splines extend beyond the splined portion of the clutch disc hub. That provides us with ¼" space between the end of the bearing retainer and the hub.
5. So how thick is the plate?
From the trans we have; 4.25" (#3)
add the ¼" gap to the hub (#4)
add the 1¼" hub thickness (to the face of the flywheel) (#2)
and the total = 5.75"
Now, subtract from this, the 4" measurement (#1) and the final plate thickness is 1.75". This is a very thick plate.
My suggestion is to use a .75" plate with a 1" deep ring welded on to follow the bolt pattern on the block. If the ring is less than 1" wide then additional material will be required at the dowel pin locations.
The remainder of the work is 'machine shop 101'. The transmission registers on the bearing retainer so insure that the hole is within 0.007 TIR parallel to the crankshaft. The locating dowels in the factory blocks are extremely consistant so all of this can be done with a donor block if needed. Set-up the block in the mill, locate and record all of the holes then transfer the pattern to the new adapter.
...If someone has a block and a cnc mill perhaps they would be kind enough to post the hole location details of the extension.....

Now, what about a pilot bearing? If the crankshaft is not drilled, or if the engine is in the car, then two additional steps are required.
1. The input shaft must be cut so as to not bottom out against the crank. Give yourself at least 0.125" clearance.
2. A bearing must be installed within the flywheel.....


I am quite sure that I have glossed over something and I am equally sure that someone will tell me about it.........................

.

Edit: Recent information has surfaced regarding the difference in flange position between the 51-53 cranks and 54-58 units. It appears that the early crank is 0.200 shorter, behind the block, so be cautious with crank swapping and double check your dimensions. The crank in the above example was a later unit so in a 51-53 block it projects an additional 0.200 toward the rear.
In step 1. above, with a early crank in the early block, the 4" measurement will be 4.2" so make note as you go through the process.

 

Keep in mind that somewhere in the mix, you need an arm to activate the throwout bearing, or use a hyd bearing ***embly.

 

Wow this all great info guys...I'm spending mucho time reading through all the tech threads.

I was looking at a complete 354 Hemi with and extnded bell the other day for $800...but didn't jump because of the extended bell and my ignorance about it.

This thread and others have opened my eyes to the posibilities....maybe I'll see if it's still available??

 

Yup, glossed over the throw-out bearing. The hyd style is the only real option for this ***embly. Fortunately, there are several brands/style to choose from.


.

 

Which hyd TO are you referring to?

The only ones I found that are made to fit are from Mcleod and fairly expensive. I found a mustang HYD TO for $49 that seems dimensionally like it will fit...but I have not installed or used it.

And I am looking for a second option if it does not work.

Thanks.

JJ

 

You're right, these ****ers are not cheap, but then if there are limited or no options whats a guy to do?? I won't say that mechanical linkage can't be designed, it would simply be alot of work.
Try: Tilton; Howe; Quartermaster; and Ram. (just put 'hydraulic throwout bearing' in your search bar)

Gary

.

 

I tried those.....

I have high hopes for my mustang option. But I dont think anyone is making a hydraulic throwouts just for Hemi 833 applications. I think they are for another application and then modified. Thats what you are paying for is the modification. If I know which TO to start with I could modify it myself.

Ill let you know how the Mustang one works out....but itll be a few months

JJ

 

I have an adapter for a LaSalle and it takes a Standard T/O with a Fork.

There is a notch in the adapter & a Dog -Leg in the fork where it comes thru the notch.

 

Is it time for a progress report ??


.