I'm currently in the process of removing the clutch from my car. Really ****s to do with out a lift. I was about to pull the ****** from the bellhousing and I started to think that maybe my slipping clutch was due to the pedal not being adjusted properly. When I first read the manual I thought I adjusted it right. as the clutch disc wears should the adjusting nuts move more towards the back of the car or be moved foward towards the front of the car. From what I can see from the small space between the flywheel and clutch, there looks to still be some meat on the disc. I started to remove the clutch because I lost all foward power going up a hill, got towed home and moved the adjuster nuts almost to the end of the threaded rod(towards the rear) and still the car would not move foward. It seems simple in the manual but I had play in the pedal regardless of how it was adjusted though I didnt adjust it very far foward before I started the removal. The ****** is almost out so I might end up pulling it anyways. thanks for the help ahead of time.
Every worn out clutch I've ever pulled still had meat on the disk. You need a little bit of meat left so the rivets don't gouge out your flywheel when the disk wears out. Your experience is similar to mine with my '50 Chevy pickup- there was still a small amount of adjustment left on the rod but the springs don't have enough oomph to keep the clutch from slipping. I would go ahead and do the clutch job. It really isn't that difficult. The nuts move toward the front as the clutch wears on the truck. It should be the same as your car- the pressure plate fingers expand toward the transmission when the clutch gets thinner, and the pivot point of the fork is between the clutch linkage and the input shaft.
I have never adjusted the slip out of a clutch. the adjustment is just your pedal travel. once it starts to slip it is time for replacement. are you removing the trans up through the hole in the floor?
He, He!! Pulling a ****** with no lift. The time I R&R'd my '52 Willys Areo Eagle H/T's 232" Stude's 3-speed stick OD was when I jacked it up, then dug a hole under it and put two mounted tires under it's front tires as a safety stop, then slid in under her head-first from the front as it was spitting snow out on the farm back in like '65 or so in HS. Right, you adjust the clutch pedal linkage EITHER way until you end up with like an INCH to an INCH AND A HALF of top clutch pedal travel DOWN before she engage's regardless, imho!! Dam Chevy diaphram clutches really need a 4" long piece a pine 2x4 under the pedal to keep the SOB from ****ing down at high-speed such that it over-center's and won't release!! Been there, know all about this **** from back then!! pdq67
I changed transmissions on my stick shift '53 from the front seat after removing the 194 clutch head screws that hold the transmission hump in place. Luckily, '49-'54 Chevy three speeds are both small and light.
Replace the clutch,pressure plate and throw out bearing,check to make sure the surface of the flywheel is okay,a slipping clutch can really put some heat on the flywheel and you might have to have it refaced,after you get it all back in see if you can get a local HAMBER to help you with adjustment.
pdq67 thats I good story. I wish I had an old style dug out bay in my garage. I dont think my landlords would like that to much though. My car didnt have the trans access plate but now it does! I just cut a hole in the floor for now and I'll fab it back in so it can be removed with screws. The ****** is ready to come out all the bolts and and drive shaft have been seperated. I just wanted to ask before I pull it out. I'll probably get to it tonight or tomorrow morn and see what she looks like. thanks for the input. <SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_5486699", true); </SCRIPT>
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