1954 Chevy Car. Mustang 2 Install help needed

This is a No Limit Engineering Air Glide Kit. The instructions that came with the kit along with the instructions on their website, have pretty poor quality pictures. Instructions can be found Here. Also, their instructions are for a truck frame which looks to be slightly different than the car frame.



I just want to make sure I got everything down correctly before I make any cuts or drill any holes.
Picture Above
Is the orientation of the crossmember correct? Or do I have it backwards?

1. The holes marked with Red X's are for a piece of the factory frame which I removed. I will be reinstalling this piece once I finish sandblasting it. So I know what these holes are for.
2. Are the holes on the crossmember circled in blue suppose to match up for the holes on the frame which I numbered in blue: 1,2,3? From what I tried last night for a brief minuite, only 1 of the two holes lined up to holes 1 or 2 on the frame.
3. The instructions of the kit say to mark the center line of the large hole on the frame, then to measure back 18-3/8" e.t.c. Out of the two holes circled in green, which holes is the correct one to measure back from? I believe it is the front hole, but I want to confirm.


Are these flanges circled in red suppose to be removed by cutting/grinding? If so, this would change the situation above with my first set of questions.

I ask about the flanges on the frame rails because I don't see how these other crossmember pieces would fit on the frame without taking the flange off? I know there is something I am missing, I just can't visualize this install.

 

okay i cant believe i am first to post on this but it looks like you got the crossmember way too far forward in the frame, and that last pic it looks to me like you have the top plate for the wrong side in your hand.

personally i would put that front stock crossmember back in before you weld anything. (the one that the factory sway bar bolts to)

 

checking their website , there is a different part numbers for a pickup and cars kits. maybe that is the problem

 

see how nicely holes 3 and 4 match up with the holes on the new crossmember? id try that... and i would never cut the inside flange myself...

honetly ive never done a no limit front end, im just teying to help.. so sorry if my advice isnt the best.

 

Yes the orientation of the cross member is correct. Mustang rack is front steer. Is the cross member you removed (red x) the radiator mount etc.? It looks to me the holes 3-4 would match to the front two holes of the cross member. Also if you can measure the old 54 front end to see if you can find the centerline to the stock spindle location on the frame. That will tell you if the MII will also be centered using these holes. I would say the 18-3/8" would be from the front bumper bracket hole (green). Don't cut anything before trial fitting. Their directions are very poor photos and all for a pickup frame that needs to be boxed. Did your kit come with boxing plates? If it did you probably got a pickup kit.

 

the red x's are for the radiator cross member, it needs to go back in.
I think you got the wrong kit.
This is a different company, but maybe it will show you what is wrong.

http://www.ch***isengineeringinc.com/page28.html

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/howto/1603/index.html

 

i put a CE bolt on cross member on my 50'.. and to look at yours, it looks like you have the wrong cross member (it looks to narrow). on my CE you lined up two holes in the new cross member with a couple of holes in the frame and drilled out the rest...

 

Your advice is helpful.

When I get home tonight I will check the fitment of holes 3&4 to the front holes on the crossmember.

 

Yes you are correct. The piece missing is the radiator support. I am not worried about that one. I know exactly where that goes.

The holes with the red X's are for the radiator support plate.

My kit didn't come with boxing plates.

I did know this, but I KNOW i ordered the car kit. I don't really have a way to check if they sent me the correct kit or not.

I know someone said the crossmember looks too narrow but that is only in the picture. At least I think.

I wish No Limit would return my phone call.

 

any luck? i would love to see more pictures of this install

 

Well, first, have you called them or emailed them with the photos you have here?

I checked their instructions and while they work great for my truck they don't give much for your car.

I also checked their page that one would order the kit from and it looks real easy to get the wrong kit if you aren't fully paying attention to the minute details when you order.

Before I went any further I would be checking my invoice to see that it showed that I got what I thought I ordered and then be emailing or calling them.

 

this picture makes me think you got the right kit, its just too far forward on the frame and your got the bag mount on the wrong side, see the curve of the frame?

 

Did you figure out where that crossmember goes yet? just saw your post now...If you still need the location let me know ill go measure mine and give you the dimensions you need.

 

My crossmember is 14 3/8 from the front of the frame rails to the front of the crossmember. The motormount is 2 1/2 inches behind the front of the crossmember. So center of your motormount should be approx 16 7/8 from the front of frame rail. PM me if you need more info.

 

when the frame starts to curve it is way far back to be mounting the bag. it curves out at the same spot, so it wouldn't be flat.

you can kinda see it here.

 

This pic may help out some as a rough idea where it should be along w the details I gave above...I have more in my other computer that are more detailed...

 

I just did a M2 on my 53, it was a different kit, the measurement is 16.5 from the front edge of the frame, PLEASE double check this number, but it is what I got.
you can get a scematic of the frame and measurments from several M2 companys, the center line will be the same.

The Rad cross member needs to stay in, mostly to keep the frame rails from twisting and spreading when you weld.

Depending on how the kit is made will determine which Lips of the frame get cut off, my kit required just the outside lip, I have seen other kits require both lips to be removed or just the inside one. I cut the lip ( flange) off, V grooved the the gap between the box part of the frame and the flat bottem piece and welded it solid, the ground the frame smooth.

My kit went in pretty easy ( Welder series Kit by Paul Horton ), even though it was my first M2, my biggest problem was positioning the center cross member, Mine to to be set level and centered, So be sure the complete frame is level front to back and side to side, that way you know everything will be set at ZERO or level.

I over did it a little and made extra gussets ( not in the kit ) and boxed the entire crossmember to the frame, basiclly wrapping the frame with the TOP HAT and Center crossmember.
I hope this helps you out, I have some pics in my build thred here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5780197&posted=1#post5780197

 

you called and (NO One) returned your calls, drive down there and get you money back, No limit means No service, No help,and No fit, No you the customer are dumb and dont know what you are doing, they will tell you that too. good luck

 

I just spoke with Michael over there and he was a very nice guy. He didn't insult me and was very well spoken. He know the design and was confident with his replies.

I'm sorry you had a bad experience but so far they have been helpful.

 

This picture helps alot. I am going to mess with this all more tonight and I will update with more pictures and my results.

 

so, did you get the right kit or no?

 

well thats good to hear, good juck

 

Welll they didn't tell me that I had the wrong kit, so I must ***ume it is correct.
They had an outgoing inspection form with the kit checking off that all the pieces were in the box. Although that might not be full proof, I was impressed.

I am going home to grub, then test fit the crossmember some more. Apparently all those holes should align with the holes on the frame. I am going to try again and take more pictures to show what is going on.

I'm blasting the rad. support tomorrow at work, then I'll throw that back in before anyone else has a heart attack about that piece being missing.

 

Okay guys I took some more pictures after readings your replies and talking to No Limit.
Based on some of the feedback that I got from your post. It seems like the picture below shows the location of where the cross member should be. The red arrows in the picture show where the holes on the No Limit crossmember line up with the holes in the frame. The green arrow shows where there is a hole on the No Limit crossmember that does NOT have a hole in the frame. This is fine. I am not scared to drill any holes, especially since I will be welding this in.


The member 53sled had kind of mentioned this issue. he said: where teh fram curves outwards it also curves downwards. If I install the No Limit Crossmember where the TWO inner holes match the two holes on the frame I have to deal with this gap.


This is a better picture of the gap. This seems like it is a rather large gap to weld.




The other thing that bothers me is, the dimension they state in the instructions is practically impossible to achieve based on the bolt holes of the frame.


The I mark a line 18-3/8" from the center of the hole on the frame and align the notch of the crossmember to this line I have a gap like this to deal with. This gap is at least twice the gap compared to installing the crossmember where the bolt holes align.


If someone tells me that the gap in either picture is acceptable and the crossmember can still be welded in safely, I will continue to move forward with this project. I just want another opinion.
The gap in the first few "gap pictures" is something I could deal with AND the bolt holes align, so it seems like this is where the cross member is suppose to sit.
I will also hold a fender up to the car to try and get an idea to see if I am on the right track or not.

 

There is a nice post from Gambino Kustoms about doing one, I think it has detailed pics of this area. pictures are mostly blocked at work, so I am flying blind here.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394429

 

looking at your pics the lip seems bent, and causing some of the gap.
16 3/8 may be the front of the cross memberber and 18 3/8 may referance the center line or that kit, if you are using tubular A arms verse in this kit it may be different that mine ( i use stock A arms).
If i remember correctly 16 1/2 was factory centerline. look online at TCI website, they have a scematic of the frame and mesurments of centerline, it matched up with my kit. if all else fails hang the dog house back on the car, use a plumb bob and find center of the wheel well , do this on both sides of the car and make sure the dog house is square with the frame and that the frame is not bent or twisted
Mrc

 

I went and looked over my set up again...it seems like your about rite..The 18" measurment would be way to far back. The front of my crossmember is just to the back of the circular cut out on right side frame. From what I have seen on theses new cross member setups is that most of the bolt holes line up and one or two need to be drilled or opened up....mine had to be. As far as the opening in the way the plates meet up..mine was also like that if i remember correctly, I supposse you could clamp n hammer it down before welding then seam it up. Hopefully this helps out...your more then welcome to come take measurements off of my set up if your still unsure before you start welding it together! I within an hour from LA (not rush hour!) lol.

 

I put a RB's Obsolete Mustang II crossmember in my '53 Chevy about 8 years ago and that gap was the same on mine. Here's the part that will freak you out: clamp that ****er in the middle and it will bend right down to meet the flatter plate! Those frame flanges are pretty malleable. Someone with more experience welding one in can confirm or deny this (my kit was all bolt-in), but I believe the proper technique is probably to clamp the frame flange down close to the plate and THEN weld it all up.

 

Great thread and very descriptive! Im not sure how alike the Fatman super low kit verses the NoLimit Airglide kit are but it does give you some more exact pics...it seem to be set up like mine also as far as placement.

 

did you measure your axel center line before dis***embley? i'd hate to see you weld it in and not be centered in your wheel well...