Ok I searched....think it's a 67 or 68 mustang? 4 bolt mounting? Drum drum, shouldn't need a proportion valve correct?
Yes on the Mustang part. I listed #as M-1485 but there are several various prefixes ending in 1485 for that model. 2 bolt mount, drum-drum doesn't (or shouldn't) require a proportioning valve. Here's and interesting thread on the subject. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/i-need-a-proportioning-valve-for-dual-m-c-with-drum-brakes-wtf.646567/
I tried watching that... I swear....wouldn't load quick enough on my phone. The guy bought a corvette part we could make it work , but it's a 2 bolt deal and was wondering if there's a 4 bolt deal that will work. I'll watch it at home
You really don't need a four bolt deal. I did a Granada brake swap with the two bolt Granada master. Zero problems. Just remember to put bolts in the unused holes as they anchor the inner pedal brace.
I used a Speedway Ford style master on mine, Mustangs have the same pattern, think 3.20" on center. No proportioning valve is required. You can route the existing rear line to the new master (make up a section of new line if needed), run the front master line to the br*** block (in the OG position), cap off the old rear line port. The front lines stay the same. Then you have to deal with the brake light switch. A newer style can be mounted to the pedal, I plumbed in a hydraulic since I was going disc-drum with a proportioning valve. Look on my build post, I should have pictures of what I did.
Instead of using the old T-block when I did mine I used these fittings (thanks Ace Hardware) and added the GM brake switch at the pedal.Then you just have one line from the master to the existing front line and one from a new line to the old back line.
I could see this for going out to the rear line, but for the front? It still has to split off to both front wheels. The benefit of the factory block is that it mounts solidly to the frame.
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