Cant figure out why my oil light is staying on. I have run it from sender to bulb and from bulb to ignition. Further gas guage is run from sender to pin and then from the other pin to acc post on ignition. It only registers 1/4 when tank is full. Test says guage is working and shoots to full when grounded. HELP! I am using EZ wire system. Compatability problem?? Pro response please.
You put a master guage on the engine and make sure it has oil pressure?. Sounds like it might be a ground problem otherwise..
Yes, sounds like your gauge and sender for the gas system isn't compatible. Make sure before hand though that the float is working correctly, before taking it out of the tank see if it's operating a full movement. If you can see full movement. Be sure that the float is ground really well. Are you sure the gauge and float were compatible beforehand? Can't help you on the idiot light. I never worked with them only gauges.. maybe someone else can help there.
is the instrument panel in place? something under your dash is grounding some where. i have a 56 chevy and i bought an under dash wiring harness. i had the gauge cluster out and had the sockets and bulbs were just dangling there. when i turned on the blinker every bulb flashed and even the gas gauge needle swung back and forth with the blinker. i thought i hooked up something up wrong. i checked my wiring at least twenty times ad finally i just plugged all the bulb sockets in the dash and everything worked just fine. so it coould be another wire making it do that. if you want, i could go look under my dash for reference. hope this helps. the 55 is looking nice diego
A friend of mine had the same problem with his oil pressure light.We checked an rechecked all the wiring,replaced the oil pressure sender and the damn light still kept on burning.I found out that he had used a too short oil pump driveshaft.The shorter one is about 1" shorter than the longer one.
turn ON the key (idiot light for oil is ON)...take OFF the sender wire (on oil press. switch) ...light should go OUT !! if not, your bulb in the idiot light is being grounded somewhere.(if light goes out when you remove sender wire you either have a bad sender or NO oil pressure---check with a mechanical gauge)...gas problem.....aftermarket gauges ?? Then the sender is WRONG OHMAGE for your gauges......original gauges...sender may be BAD! That's it man.........(MAKE SURE you have a GOOD ground at the sender too...run another ground wire from sender to chassis to be sure....) Jersey Skip
Too much teflon tape when installing the sender can keep it from making good contact in the block. just a thought.
Well I read all and I like (to much teflon) and the idea of a jumper from the sender to the chassis. That will save headache if that truly is the problem. Any one elese?
Tommy...good point but that only applies to temperature senders (electrical ones) oil press. is an on/off type of deal and temp. senders are a VARIABLE ground so they GOTTA be put in dry !! bustin..... if ya have a multi-tester ya can see if the sender is bad by putting the meter on"continuity" (it 'beeps" when ya touch the leads together...) put one lead on a GOOD ground and the other on the sender connection...should beep with motor off...start motor..shoud be NO beep if it's good (and the motor has pressure). Jersey Skip
Bustin...(man I wish I woulda thought of this the last post)... just take ANY 12 volt light and put one lead on the + terminal on battery....put the other on the sender where the wire attaches ...should light with engine off and go out with engine runnin'....you can also take the lead (on yer 12 V light)that yer puttin' on the sender terminal and touch it to the BODY of the switch and if it lights...you HAVE a ground thru the sender.....might hafta RUB it on the body to make contact... Jersey Skip
[ QUOTE ] Tommy...good point but that only applies to temperature senders (electrical ones) oil press. is an on/off type of deal and temp. senders are a VARIABLE ground so they GOTTA be put in dry !! [/ QUOTE ] When the oil pressure flicks the switch doesn't it still need to git to ground to complete the circuit and turn on the light?
I like Teflon in my Omelette pan. It keeps the eggs from sticking and makes flipping eggs over medium, easy. I don't think it has any business being in a car, anywhere.
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