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Technical 1955 Ford F-100 tail light set up

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 1955 F-100 guy, Jun 21, 2023.

  1. 1953-55 F-100 guy
    Joined: Jul 15, 2010
    Posts: 525

    1953-55 F-100 guy
    Member
    from NE Pa

    Pictures of rear tail light bracket and bolts , Want to add a set to my truck, Here is my bolts do not go all the way thru-- Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  2. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,277

    BJR
    Member

    Is there a question their somewhere?
     
    X38 likes this.
  3. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,953

    Roothawg
    Member

    Are you asking for pics of stock?
     
    X38 likes this.
  4. Jim Bouchard
    Joined: Mar 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,311

    Jim Bouchard
    Member

    I think you are asking about your lack of holes on the backside of the stake pockets for the stock brackets to bolt onto?

    Someone welded them up. You will need to take the tailgate hinge off and drill through from the tailgate hinge side forward, using the tailgate hinge holes as a guide.

    WARNING…… the person that welded them up may have not been a great welder and the backside (inside the pocket) of the holes might have big globs of weld mounds and wire stubs making it difficult drill straight holes and a flat mounting surface on the inside for the nuts.

    SUGGESTION….. split the difference of the hinge holes and lower the taillight bracket an inch or so avoiding the possible ugly inside welds. The taillights would look better lower anyway and by splitting the difference halfway won’t be that noticeable.

    You may have to make a shorty drill bit just long enough to get through the metal and drill from the fender side with a small drill or cordless impact with a short drill bit. With a good center punch mark you could slowly drill at a slight angle if necessary with a 1/8 drill bit making a small pilot hole then sneaking up to the 1/4, again, slowly at a slight angle.
     
  5. KevKo
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,040

    KevKo
    Member
    from Motown

    Wow, Jim is the man for figuring that out. Good job.
     
    Jim Bouchard likes this.
  6. 1953-55 F-100 guy
    Joined: Jul 15, 2010
    Posts: 525

    1953-55 F-100 guy
    Member
    from NE Pa

    Thanks Jim

    I thought the question was very clear but CONFUSED some. Thanks for understanding and letting me know the 2 bolts go straight thru the pocket, all I had to know.. So the bolts in the kit from mid- fifty will be the correct length.
     
    Jim Bouchard likes this.
  7. Jim Bouchard
    Joined: Mar 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,311

    Jim Bouchard
    Member

    Yes, they are straight through.

    However, another word of warning.

    If you go straight through with the bolts the stake pocket is not strong enough to support the hinges and the taillights like that. The pockets will squeeze together and you will never get the bolts tight enough to hold everything.

    I believe the stock pockets had kind of a nutsert threaded base welded in the pockets to accommodate the bolts coming through from the outside.

    I have had success with either using short bolts with nuts on the inside of the pockets
    Or
    Using all thread to make a “long stud” but backing up with nuts on each side on the inside thus preventing the pocket from squishing down.
    Or
    Fabricating a thick tube spacer to be on the inside of the pocket with the bolts going through the tubing to prevent the squishing.

    Be aware if there is welding globs, the old nutserts and other ugliness inside the pocket, it will interfere with this process.
     
    TexasHardcore likes this.
  8. Jim Bouchard
    Joined: Mar 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,311

    Jim Bouchard
    Member

    Another thought is you could put the taillight brackets on directly Behind the hinge brackets and just use longer bolts.
    It might look good BUT it might not
     
  9. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,507

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    For a cleaner look, use short bolts with the nuts inside the stake pocket. It should be easy, ***uming the bottom of the stake pocket is open.
     
    Jim Bouchard likes this.
  10. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,277

    BJR
    Member

    Most questions end with one of these?
     
    Roothawg, Ribbedroof and X38 like this.
  11. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    IF you end up with 'weld gobs' inside, the way to remove them is with an electric drill (3/8"-1/2", 'stout)
    And a swirl-bit (1/2"-3/4") porting type, grind it nice and smooth inside, then, as stated, cut and use some 3/8" common pipe for the long bolts to go thru inside the pockets, not to crush.
    I did that on my '55 F100, now my Ford Shields show nicely, and license plate hangs on the left, lighted by the lower lamp in left shield.. Whew!
     
    Jim Bouchard likes this.

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