1956 Dodge Pickup Power Steering?

Anybody done, seen, tried, failed, or even thought about converting a Dodge C-series pickup with the original straight axle to power steering? Looking for some ideas here before I go looking around aimlessly elsewhere.

Here is my build thread if your interested. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=574288

 

What kind of front suspension are going to use?

 

Keeping the stock front suspension. I flipped the top spring to drop it about 2 inches and will eventually convert to disc brakes, but keeping the I beam.

 

There are pickup/SUV power steering boxes that are adaptable to a straight axle steering linkage. Even a box that was forward mounted in it's original application can be used for a behind the axle position.

And don't overlook the fact that even car boxes can be mounted on their sides (as compared to their original orientation) to get the pitman arm where it needs to be. Just be sure the arm movement is in the needed direction.

A trip to an broad based salvage yard would be a good way to spend a few hours. Also, look in the Borgeson catalog for the various steering bozes they offer.

I have seen it done more than once...........so hang in there, you can do it!

Ray

 

Not sure if it is an option for you or not, but most of the straight axle power steering aftermarket kits I have seen for Chevy/Ford for that vintage are adapted rack and pinion. No Limit, CPP, etc.

For some reason I think I have also seen a hydraulic cylinder type of thing used with a steering box but a quick search left me empty handed. Either I misremembered or else it didn't work correctly and was dropped.

EDIT:
Found this, sure it could be done yourself with the parts from the toyota. Hope that helps.

http://www.cl***icperform.com/tech_articles/F-100_Steering/F-100_Steering.htm

 

Thanks for the ideas guys. Just a note, the box is mounted in front of the axle. However, I'm glad you brought that up as I will need to be careful that the rotation and arm travel direction are what I need (I hadn't really given it allot of thought).

Your probably right though in that I should just spend some time up under some vehicles, find something close and make it work. Usually that's what happens anyway after spending two days scouring the web...

I'll be sure to post what I do or what I find (when I get around to it/find it) in my build thread for the m***es.

 

I have the same issue. My local company, ABS in Orange Ca, claims they can put a Toyota 4x4 box on mine by making a bracket and stuff, for $2000 or so. I have seen this setup on Ford F100's and it works great.

I also heard that a Isuzu cab forward truck has a box that is almost a bolt-in for our trucks. I am still looking for an Isuzu to take some measurements.

To help the steering problem on my 56 I removed 1" from the pitman arm. This helped some, but my box was so bad that it is now at ABS for a rebuild. When I get it back I will tell you how it turned out.

I bought a steering box for a 56 2 ton truck off of Ebay. I could not mount it on my truck because I have lowered it and there was not clearance from the leaf spring. If anybody is interested in playing around with this box (7 1/2 turns lock to lock) let me know.

 

Did anyone ever crack the code on power steering on a 56 C 100?

 

Besides what has been offered, you might ask over at www.p15-d24.com

 

There are so few 40's-50's dodge trucks that are customized on stock suspension, most guys go with a subframe swap or ch***is swap, that's why so many of these kind of threads have cliff-hanger endings, no clear solution to any custom Mopar question from that era.

 

My ‘57 has a gm power steering box with the stock axle

 

I'm currently working on the 79Toyota 4wd box install in my 56 Dodge PU. Any solid axle 4wd (or Cruiser) will have this style. Mount is tacked together, box bolted in place. Now working on the Firebird/Camaro column install. They will be connected with a lower u-joint that slip on the box and take a double d shaft on the other end. A double d u-joint on the other end attaches to the column. It will all be removed, final welded and painted when all the pieces are proven to fit as intended.

The mount places the pitman shaft within 1/8" vertically and fore/aft of the original box.

I still need to bend (straighten) the pitman, remove the ball and ream for the stock drag link end. Bending will both stretch the effective length and move it outboard close to the original location. Broke two pullers so far trying to get the arm off!

Since I'm using a flat six right now, I'll use a Volvo electric pump to provide the pressure. Easier than rigging an engine driven pump. And with a kit I can get an adjustable pressure, with a more expensive kit, add speed sensitive boost. That one uses GPS input to get speed info.