I’ve been searching and reading as much as possible about upgrading to a dual master and keeping all drum brakes. I’ve found some info for ford but nothing specific to Mercury. Does anyone know if the dual master FENCO M1485 from a 1967 Mustang will work on a 1956 Mercury? Looks like it should along with some new lines and fittings. thanks for any help
I used a 1967 Galaxie master cylinder on my ‘55 Mercury conversion. You will need to alter the included push rod or get an adjustable push rod kit.
For my 56 T-Bird I used a 67 Mustang Drum Drum master cylinder. It's manual brakes so you really have to push on the pedal, but it stops great. I had to lengthen the rod from the pedal to the master though. T-Birds used the same pedal ratio for manual and power brakes.
I went with the ‘67 Galaxie master cylinder because it has the same bore size as my ‘55 Mercury’s master cylinder. This gives the brakes the same pedal feel as the single chamber master cylinder. Either way you go, you’ll need a custom length push rod.
Looks like both have a 1” bore size so I guess either one would work, but either way I’ll need to extend the push rod, thanks for the info
There is an adjustable for the Mustang. I bought it from Summit when I did the disc front on my 56 Ford Victoria. Wilwood told me about it.
Working on the master cylinder conversion and hit a snag. The ports on the master cylinder are bigger than the fittings of the stock brake lines, so I guess I’ll need some adapters. Did you guys go with adapters or do something different?
Instead of stacking up adapter fittings, look for the correct 3/16 tube inverted flare fittings. I think you’ll need 3/16x7/16-24 and 3/16x1/2-18 fittings. NAPA should have them.
I was going to suggest that but thought the OP might not have the flaring tools. I would build some new lines in that spot with correct fitting also. just use the old ones as patterns. I ordered this tubing for one my brake projects its much easier to flare and comes with a bunch of fittings. https://www.amazon.com/25ft-Copper-...4+lifetime+brake+tuning&qid=1686328768&sr=8-1
You would be correct, I don’t have a flaring tool lol, but I don’t need much of an excuse to buy a new tool.
I would recommend the little hand held style over the older style with the clamp and twisty piece. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-33260-...t=&hvlocphy=9073456&hvtargid=pla-870606282374
Do most (or "all") of these drum/drum come with 10# residual valves internal? (Should; but a customer of mine installed one on his '57 Ford, and it didn't have the residual(s).
Per OEM spec, they should be present. I have heard some do not. I know if the valves are not present, you’ll see more of a geyser of returning fluid in each bowl when the brake pedal is quickly released.