1952-59 Ford 1956 Mercury project update 1

Got the engine mounted. I used what appeared to be fox mustang mounts. (They were just laying around the garage so, not 100% on their origin.) motor looks a little low to me but we’ll press forward.
Also, sprayed phosphoric acid on the engine Bay and with any luck with put a coat of paint in the bay tonight.

 

What do you do with the phosphoric acid before paint? Rinse it off or let it sit?

 

I ***ume you are talking about bare metal where the phosphate is normally used to etch the metal. Phosphoric acid leaves both a residue and a coating (the coating turns shiney metal into a gray). The residue is yellow and should be rinsed off. If you are using regular paint (not por-15), then the coating has to be sanded off as well or it will prevent the primer/paint from making a mechanical adhesion. If you are using the phosphate on bare metal that will sit for a period of time before priming, then leave the coating and residue until paint time. It will prevent rust from flashing. It is very important that the coating be sanded/jitterbugged off or (in my case, epoxy primer) the primer will not stick. Ask me how I know.

 

Good to know Texas57, the guy who told me to use the phosphoric acid actually told me I paint right over it. But, I’ll head your warning and go ahead and pressure wash and Sand before squirting paint on it.

 

@Texas57 thanks for the advice.
Blew it off with air, gave it a quick scrub with scotch Brite dry, blew with air, then wiped with prepsall, then mixed up some single stage enamel. And gave it a quick coat.

 

Looks great!!

 

Thanks

 

Looks GREAT...what size engine..And what year engine mounts???

 

It’s a 302 and I think those mounts are 90 mustang but not 100% sure

 

Brakes yesterday, only had time for front. Hopefully tonight I’ll have bearings packed and re installed

 

Yesterday I had to make a new brake line to the p***enger side. Got that done. wheel bearings packed, new brakes are done on the front. And shocks. Also mounted the master cylinder and removed the old distribution block so I can split the lines for 2 pot master.
Just a little update to keep myself accountable.

 

Also can’t thank this group enough definitely makes things go much faster, being able to have some other expertise in putting this thing together.
I used the mustang master for the brakes, that is referenced in the sticky and it was bolt it.
I’ll be buying motor mounts and trans mount today to get the motor in its final Place. As I don’t think I’m crazy about the mustang mounts

 

Got the brake lines done and master installed today. Also changed to the recommended motor mounts. I’m not sold in them yet. I had to cut off a locator and it moves the engine right up against the firewall. But, I’ll try them out and if I don’t like them as I progress I’ll change back to the fox mustang mounts. Thanks for the info guys.

 

Tonight’s install was the clutch master cylinder install. The mdl kit didn’t work with the mercury just perfect, had to cut the rod end joint thread down quite a bit.

 

I went hydraulic in my car as well, used a Wilwood 3/4" clutch master. I had to mount the brake master and clutch master to a steel plate, the firewall had too much flex to it.

 

Ooh… I May have to go that route as well.

 

I went through 2 aluminum plate pieces first and graduated to 1/4" steel. I still get some flex, I should have sandwiched it from the inside too. Lesson learned. I re-located the clutch master on V3 close to the stock pedal-link height. I had it too far down and lost the leverage I needed. I found that 3/4" at the fork was pretty good and my pedal pressure is nice.

 

For the time being, I’m going to use factory rear differential. So rebuilt those brakes yesterday and had to make a new line. Got my wife to help bleed and now we have a brake system. Although, I did forget to put a pressure switch in the system so later modification may be required

 

New hubcaps came in, and began the process of installing the new gas tank.

 

Put in a modern stop light switch. The pressure switches offered today are trash. I went through too many and finally converted it.

 

Thanks @56longroof I think I agree, and don’t have to worry about a failure and if it does fail no need to bleed the system to repair it

 

This is what I did as well. Piece of angle iron with hole drilled for modern stop light switch and then welded under dash.

 

I used a brake light switch from a early Pontiac and a Corvette light switch bracket.

 

If you want to keep the pressure switch buy a Harley Davidson from one of their dealers. Mines been perfect for 10 years.

 

I came down with what appears to be some kind of Covid strain so been down for the week before that I was working in beautiful Klamath Oregon. Anyhow, started laying in a painless harness. Anybody got any advice on wiring one of these?

 

Take your time with the wiring, it isn't hard but plan your wiring routes carefully. Much easier to hide the wires now than later once they are cut and in place. Divide the harness into three parts (engine compartment, p***enger compartment, and trunk/rear) and then plan routes and placement. I'd also add as many grounds as possible in each of those three areas. After that it is just a matter of hooking everything up.

 

You were just about 150 miles south of me.

 

dang really? I was in Medford too lol. I’ll tell you what. I’m very jealous of y’all Oregon is awesome.