1952-59 Ford 1956 Mercury project update 1

All you need is a cheap slide hammer........
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-...44Na5gQMV2Y_CCB2FVgmsEAQYCSABEgIVoPD_BwE&th=1

Put a #10 sheetmetal screw in the end. Drill a couple of 1/8" holes along the crease, screw it in and pull. The dent will come right out.

 

I got the stuff to do this was just not wanting to drill holes. But that’s my plan so far cause the darn dent is right at the door edge on the quarter.

 

The metal has to be really clean, no rust or paint residue (or phosphate) and hold the ****on for a second or two longer.
Maybe too long of an extension cord causing a loss of power? Play with it a bit, you should be able to get it to work. Is this the first time using that stud gun? You don't want to drill holes unless you have to. That can cause more damage than what you're fixing

 

It worked on my pickup truck, I’ve used it before. I’ll try to clean it good and change my power source too see what happens

 

So with a cord change I got the stud gun working. I wouldn’t say it’s phenomenal but it worked enough to get most of the dent pulled out it’s still a tiny bit low but I can live with the skim it’ll take to square it up.
Also got the paint off of the roof and happy to find no dents on the roof at all.
I will report that cooper’s strip club stripper is phenomenal and I wish I would’ve ordered it much earlier. Paint just bubbles right off.

 

Thanks Texas57 for the cord change idea!!

 

Good to know about the stripper. It use to be easy to find stuff that worked well until the EPA got involved. My son had the same power cord issue when trying to use a 120 volt mig welder.
Are you going to Goodguys in Fort Worth next weekend?

 

No sir, I think I have to go to a family function that weekend.

 

Absolutely exhausted. Took me all day and idk if it’s perfect yet.

 

Anybody have an epoxy primer recommendation?

 

Got an auto body supply shop close by? They would be the best help making a choice. I'd say something in a high-build that is also a sealer. SEM products I like, also Ditzler and Dupont are ones I've used before.

Watch out for things like a top-coat window, some have an 8 hour limit between the last prime coat and the top coat.

 

Well, I was thinking of spraying epoxy then, high build quick fill primer over that pretty quickly.

 

Are you going for an ultra high-end, cost is not an option paint job or just an 'I want it to look good' but not break the bank type of paint job? If going with the latter, I've always used Summit Racing's house brand of primers. I've used it on 3-4 cars and never had an issue.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIw_STjIXEgQMV4CqzAB3xQwYVEAQYASABEgIYovD_BwE

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pr...MI2MWhzYXEgQMVQgBMCh32NwojEAQYBiABEgIIiPD_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI3NShqoXEgQMVohGzAB0izAWpEAQYASABEgIYWPD_BwE

 

Evintho, so to be honest price is always an issue. But I’m torn in the fact that in 5 years I don’t really want to repaint because I cheaped out on primer. That said my local Tasco wants 400 for a gallon of epoxy. I think I could cover it in epoxy with 2 quarts but I’m no pro. All my paint projects to this point have been more artsy and I wasn’t so concerned with longevity. I also don’t want reaction etc..

 

I used summit primer on my dragster with no real issue, but I wasn’t worried about rust.

 

Ok that said, I think I’ll go with the summit primer, @evintho do you have recommendation on tip size, etc.. for the slick sand. I typically use a 1.3 tip and a baby 26 gallon compressor. It’ll shoot epoxy fine I’m sure but, unsure about the thicker slick sand.

(never mind, I just read the tech sheet says 1.7 to 2.2 tip) thanks tho

 

Todays update, helped my friend get his 32 running, so didn’t have a ton of time today but welded up the antenna hole.

 

Another day, another panel. I think maybe the front fender is ready for primer.
Btw, thanks evintho i ordered the epoxy primer today. Probably order featherfill or whatever that stuff is called when I get paid. And of course the urethane primer

 

Good deal! Remember, you'll need catalyst for the epoxy and activator for the 2k along with a bit of reducer.

 

Couple 2 coats of epoxy primer. Where the body work was the epoxy doesn’t seem to cover right or is this normal?

 

It's hard to distinguish between the camera flash and bodywork but if it doesn't cover, just lay on another coat. Probably the filler is soaking up more material than the surrounding metal. If the bare metal is covered, just spray enough over the filler to cover it. Don't use the epoxy primer to build it up. That's what the slick sand and 2k primer are for.

 

Cool thanks Evintho, yeah just seems like the filler just soaks it up. Kinda like the paint is dry on filler but not on steel. I’ll press on, I got the slick sand and 2k ready but want to get this thing covered cause it rusts up anywhere I don’t have phosphoric acid coating over night. Yay Houston humidity

 

And knocked out body work and primed the rest of the bottom half today

 

It's been my experience that the epoxy primer will look different where the bodywork was done. Looking good.

 

Very good, glad I didn’t have a sign of something bad.

 

Todays episode, did body work on trunk then shot the car in 2k. I didn’t order hardener for the slick sand but decided to get the 2k on and block it to find anymore issues

 

You're an animal

 

Thanks man! I didn’t want to really shoot 2k before the slick sand but I wanted to start blocking the primer so I could see any problem areas. I blocked the panels I thought were suspect and found a little issue in the rear quarter where the lead work wasn’t just right. I got to thank my neighbor for having a good eye and finding a couple dings I didn’t see. I think that’s ironed out now, and 3 little dings on the trunk that need a little glaze. But I think it’s looking pretty good luckily this car didn’t have any rust, just dings and one door/quarter that needed allot of help with hammer dolly, and filler.

I’m using a r500 lvlp gun and a 29 gallon compressor. The lvlp gun has a pretty tight pattern but it lays down smoother than my hvlp so that is pretty good. So far I like the r500 quite a bit. Especially for a 80 dollar gun.

i think next weekend I’ll potentially put color in the roof, I am thinking a zenith gold roof and bottom half. But I’m continually thinking about spraying pagan gold candy over that. But we’ll see I keep looking at Watson Mercury’s and I’m unsure how far I should go with the wilder custom paint.