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1957 Chevy Pickup; My First Classic (Build Thread)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rivera, Nov 7, 2010.

  1. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Well, after numerous threads, search and debate, I bought an old truck.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    '57 Chevy Stepside with a 396 big block, Camaro front subframe, shaved doors, power steering, power brakes, new firewall, new Radial TAs on polished weld racing wheels, Z28 10 bolt posi rear end, turbo 350.. The best part?

    [​IMG]

    POR-15 Frame

    I bought it from a guy named Randy out here in South SLC. He was a talker, took out plenty of old photos of numerous Camaros he's built through the years. Showed me his shop, and proved to me that he knows what he's doing when it comes to these cars. Stand up guy. When I first saw the truck I was scared shitless, almost walked away. I've never had a project like this and I just thought that this would be impossible for me to ever complete. Randy was pretty motivated to sell, and my buddy and I got to talking about how we could make this work. Made an offer and it was done. Initially I wanted something that was ready to be daily driven, but we all know that is impossible to find in my price range when looking at classics like these. Since my biggest obstacle is finding the time to work on this truck I made a deal with my buddy, he gets my 396, I get his 305 and he'll do the labor on the truck to get it driveable. I'll help when able, but with school and work it will be pretty much him doing the work until winter and summer break. Now come the questions...

    How will the Z28 rear end/Turbo 350 be for daily driving/mpg-wise?

    Should I leave the shaved doors or get a set with handles? (I don't have any experience with the door poppers)

    I need a bench seat. Best and cheapest place to go?

    Like I said, this will be a build thread, slow, and low-budget. My plan is to make a solid truck good enough for daily driveability and hopefully get about 20 mpg. If you guys have any advice at all I would appreciate any and everything. Looking forward to becoming a more active HAMB member.
     
  2. Gator
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,016

    Gator
    Member


    Depends a lot on the gear ratio... with a big block I wouldn't expect more than 16-18 even if it's a pretty tall (low numerical) gear. I've got a mild 350/350 in my 55 Chevy pickup with a 3:08 gear and that's what I get.

    I like door handles on trucks, poppers are easy enough to set up, a quick search should tell you all you need to know.

    Lotta guys use late model Chevy/GMC truck seats, cheap and easy to find. They're just a tad wider than stock. I opted for an original bench in mine.

    Good luck, enjoy the build.

    here's my '55:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Nice truck! I plan on running a small block 305 in and maybe doing a 4 speed manual. Still weighing out my options here.
     
  4. Antny
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,071

    Antny
    BANNED
    from Noo Yawk

    Congrats, Rivera! Welcome to the club! Looks like you got a great start on a very cool project. Mine's a 55, with a 350 and 3-speed manual, 2:73 gears. I get 20mpg easy. These are great trucks, roomy and comfy inside, and easy to find parts. I like stock door handles, but bear claw latches for the added safety. Anywho, I look forward to your build thread progress! Here's mine......

    [​IMG]
     
    brut4s likes this.
  5. Gator
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,016

    Gator
    Member

    I'd go with a 5 speed, the overdrive will let you run a lower gear for performance and still have decent MPG.

    The major obstacle with gas mileage on these trucks is they're about as aerodynamic as a brick...

    BTW I dig your project, I always liked the 55-56 grilles better than the 57, but I like the '57 hood - just what you got...


    Nice start!
     
  6. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Any specific 5 speed you recommend? I was thinking of doing the 4 only because theres a few saginaws available around here for pretty cheap. I'd also like something that will bolt right up to a 305 (out of an Impala if that matters).
     
  7. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 6,409

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    Loving your truck man, good move. Beats that ol 58 any day. Projects are fine, we'll help you through it. What direction do you want to go with it?
     
  8. elcamino65
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 277

    elcamino65
    Member
    from washington

    I believe the s10 five speed will bolt up to the 305. sweet looking truck man ive always wanted one
     
  9. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Thanks! I figured I'd have to do all this stuff (pb,ps, por-15) eventually if I plan on keeping the truck for awhile. Definitely a head start in a lot of ways from that '58, plus I got a better deal. My plan is to build a solid truck good enough for daily driveability and hopefully get about 20 mpg.

    Thanks.

    Can anyone verify that the S10 trans works?
     
  10. elcamino65
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 277

    elcamino65
    Member
    from washington

    from what ive read you will want the t5 from the s10 with the 4.6 liter v6 not the 2.8 4cyl.

    anyone have better answers for him
     
  11. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    You got a nice looking start, that's for sure. What is it going to take to make it a driver? I'd rather find a way to do stuff myself and keep the 396. Winter break is not that far off.
     
  12. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Thanks man. It needs all the glass (came w/ everything except the windshield), interior, wiring, fuel and brake system hooked up, and a fuel tank.

    What is the best option for a wiring harness? The PO said to go with a "Painless Wiring" kit. Anyone have any experience with this company? I looked on there website and have no idea what to order.

    I plan on running a bench seat so what is the best and safest option for seatbelts?
     
  13. Rude Dude
    Joined: Dec 14, 2003
    Posts: 356

    Rude Dude
    Member

  14. KooDaddy
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
    Posts: 753

    KooDaddy
    Member
    from Wis.

    On the wiring topic go with Rebel good stuff and it's sold by a member here.
     
  15. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Thanks for the link, looks like a fairly easy process.

    I'll look it up!

    Do you guys think three point seatbelts are necessary? Who uses them? Anyone use the lap belts with no problems?
     
  16. Antny
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,071

    Antny
    BANNED
    from Noo Yawk

    I have lap belts in mine and they work fine. Of course, I've never tested them, hope I never do! I also have a full roll cage in mine......just in case. Rebel Wire, great kits. Mine went in super easy. Glenn is the MAN.
     
  17. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

  18. Rude Dude
    Joined: Dec 14, 2003
    Posts: 356

    Rude Dude
    Member

    Your doors look good just drill out the handle holes, make a template from handles. They also sell rubber gaskets for handles to use as templates. Take your time use good files and good drill bits!
     
  19. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    If no one bites then I'm afraid that will be my only choice. Only thing I'm afraid of is for the handle to be in the wrong place! Plus I don't have the tools for that, maybe I'll have a good body shop do it.
     
  20. I like the doors just as they are. If you must change, wait a while and a deal will show up.

    Who cares about mileage, it's SMILEAGE that counts! But if you must, a T-5 would be your best bet. A "world class" (WC) unit will take the most HP/torque. But the S-10 unit has the correct tailhousing. You can morf the two into one, I've done it. Also the T-5 has metric bolts holes so you will need to open the bolt holes up to the right size to fit the bellhousing.

    You can find some information on parts and "how to do it" here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/

    Looks like the hard part is done. You have a great starting point for a project.
     
  21. 3spd
    Joined: May 2, 2009
    Posts: 557

    3spd
    Member

    May I suggest going out and buying some tools then? Good sets of drill bits and files are a must. Heck, I don't think I could even make a bowl of cereal without them let alone a car.

    Ryland
     
  22. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Thanks for the link and the comment. I'm looking to get this truck on the road as easy as possible so if I have to use the turbo 350 then thats that. Will the t5 work with the z28 rear end? I don't know much about this rear end at all.

    Getting the tools to do the doors isn't really the big issue, I just want them in exactly the right spot. It'd just be easier if I found someone to trade, but if I have to drill I don't think it'd be that big of a deal.

    Would a Saginaw 4 spd/305 and that Z28 rear end bolt up together?
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2010
  23. Big Nick
    Joined: Sep 7, 2005
    Posts: 846

    Big Nick
    Member

    Nice truck, looks like a great start, for wiring I agree with the others, Rebel makes a nice kit, just picked one up for my 52. As far as the trans goes, I am looking into taking the 350 turbo out of mine and swaping it for a 700R4.
     
  24. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    Unless whoever shaved you door handles was really really good at metal finishing welds, you'll probably be able to tell where to cut. Just take a sander and go down to metal and it should be pretty clear.


    I am not very good at metal finished welding...
    [​IMG]
     
  25. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Why are you thinking of changing out the 350? How does it do on the highway and on gas mileage?

    I got an email today on a possible trade. We'll see what happens.
     
  26. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Alright guys, looking at possible motor/trans options. Does anyone know anything about the Z28 posi rear end? Anyone know the ratio? Will it work with a 700r4? What are the advantages of a 700r4 over a turbo 350? Will the 700r4 be good for going 70-75mph (highway cruising)? Most importantly what combo will give me good gas mileage?
     
  27. BOWTIE BROWN
    Joined: Mar 30, 2010
    Posts: 3,251

    BOWTIE BROWN
    Member

    whats wrong with the 58?
     

    Attached Files:

  28. Mr. Jean
    Joined: Dec 13, 2007
    Posts: 603

    Mr. Jean
    Member

    Looks like a great project, I'll enjoy following along.:cool:

    To get a better direction for your new ride, I suggest you jack it up and see what rearend ratio you've got now. This will help you decide on what combo would work with it or if you are better off to change the gears out back.

    Some of us have gone for performance and are not as concerned with mileage. Mine is a 350/350 combo with 3.42's out back. Mine is a driver/cruiser with Cam, headers more thumper than mileage type. I have the three point belts too. More $$ but safer in my opinion.

    As others get a better idea of what you want/have, I'm sure you'll get plenty of help/opinions to help you along. Best of luck with it, have fun.:D

    Here's a peek at mine. A little farther along than yours for now, but I've spent a little more too. ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  29. rivera
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rivera
    Member
    from Ogden, UT

    Planning on doing the 3 points after a little more thought on that subject. Would you guys say that DIY link is a safe and good way to do it? As for the rear end, what gears/ratios are ideal for good mileage?

    Made my first purchase for it, "original" seat for it off of ebay. Pics look ok and the description says its in very good condition. We'll see..

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1264wt_1167

    Of course after I bought the seat I get a few calls saying there were a few, local that needed upholstery for under $50. I'll just cross my fingers and hope the one I bought is as good as described.
     
  30. I used these people for the seat belts in my truck.
    http://www.seatbeltplanet.com/
    Lots of diferent colours and 2 and 3 point as well. I did two 3 points and a 2 point for the middle and it was under $100. I used a 88-98 chevy full size seat in mine and it worked out very well. good luck on your project it's coming along great.
    as far as rear end I'm running a 350 /700r with 3.43 rear and I think it would have been better with a 3.75. Hiway in o/d the engine is running under 2000 rpm
     

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