New member here, but I own a 1958 Ford Edsel Corsair, I got her back in 2014 and there wasn't many issues with the car, just the minor stuff with the engine and so on. Over time the brakes would get a bit sticky and would not work. Managed to fix the issue years ago, but now the issue has returned. Now the one thing is, we tend to take the car to the mechanic since I am not one, but every little thing as far as I'm aware has either been replaced to be brand new, or reproduced. All new brake lines, all new master cylinder, brake booster, ext. No vacuum leakage, the booster is getting plenty of vacuum, we're basically at a dead end trying to figure out what is the issue. Any ideas on what to do?
Define "a bit sticky". Brakes that tend to tighten up while driving, usually points to insufficient free travel of the linkage to the master cylinder, but there can be other causes for sticking brakes. A more detailed description of the problem you're having would be helpful in narrowing down the issue.
“a bit sticky” ? yes, can you elaborate? Do they lock up completely at any time? One? .. or all? Does the car pull to one side?
I'm assuming it still has the OEM drums on it... One thing often overlooked when renewing drum brakes is where the shoes ride on the backing plates. Over time and several shoe replacements grooves can be worn into the pads on the backing plate the shoe rides on. If they get bad enough, it can prevent free movement of the shoes when the brakes are applied and/or full retraction when released. The fix is simple; weld the grooves up and sand/grind the pads back to level.
Not knowing what kind of "sticky" you have I can only describe the most common causes: Oil, grease or brake fluid on the linings. Brake pedal push rod too long causing brake drag or lock up when the brakes get warmed up. Weak, stretched or broken shoe return springs. Worn, broken or incorrectly installed self adjusters, corrosion in wheel cylinders, improperly adjusted emergency brake cables, rust in emergency brake cable tubes/housings. More detailed info needed.
Are you Married to the mechanic? If his work has been paid for it is not your task to fix it. If I were you I'd scour the area for a small older shop with an older mechanic. The shop needs to be clean and orderly. No piles of junk laying about. If not sure, See what the neighbors say about him. There is no secret or magic to good working brakes. You only need a person who will take the time to go through your system. Also I would leave the Edsel parked until I found him and chatted with him. That's another key issue. Can he be talked to? When I face someone who will only hear themselves I turn away.
@Crazy Steve has a good point, and expanding on that- the drums may be worn to the point where the shoes are going to the outer edge of the pads and hanging up. A good mechanic should have measured the drum diameter during a brake job. Hope you don't need new drums as the rear ones are a hard find.
The '58 is built on the Mercury platform with the 5" bolt circle, I'd say that at least the front drums may be hard to dig up.
@bobss396 is right, the 5 on 5 drums are hard to find. The interweb shows Kanter still have the front drums (P/N 04013C) available. A little pricey at $110.00 each. I have a 58 Citation rear I am going to use in my Buick, and have been searching for new drums for awhile with no success.
@58Edsel OldSoul You say all the brake lines have been replaced….does that include the front and rear rubber flexible hoses? That is important as they are known to constrict internally and impede the return flow of brake fluid when brakes are released at the pedal. A more likely cause, mentioned above and also in my experience, is the adjustment of the pushrod from the brake pedal arm to master cylinder…or if power brakes…from the pedal to booster AND from booster to master cylinder piston. It is imperative the push rod(s) have a little clearance when the assemblies are all bolted into place. Related to that, it is important double check the master cylinder piston is fully returning to the snap ring piston retainer. There is a small port in the m/c bore, i think it is called the ‘by-pass port’, that if still blocked by the piston upon pedal release, will hold pressure in the brake lines (tubing/hoses). Ray
@Bangingoldtin ‘re rear drums…..check out the sizing of F100/150 drums for rear brakes. I know the lug bolt pattern differs, but that is very easily re-drilled if diameter, width and offset match. I am thinking I have found that to be the case. In worst. cast, a complete brake set (meaning backing plates too) from the 9” truck rear end should swap to your Edsel axle housing. I too, have a ‘58 Edsel Citation axle assembly (also same as same years Mercury) and that is my plan. Ray
That is not a terrible price at all. Have you looked at an old Hollander interchange manual for the rears? You may find a truck cross match in the 5" bolt circle.
Since the OP indicated the problem was "fixed" for awhile, and then returned, I am still leaning toward the problem being drum wear or grooves in the backing plate pads. If the "sticky brakes" was cured by new shoes, that would confirm my suspicions. Replacement rear drums are impossible to find, and along with Ray's suggestion of truck parts, I have been researching other possibilities. A close choice is the early 70s Buick Electra drum, Mercury Cougar HD (74-78), and early 60s Lincoln Continental. The main issue with these drums is the center hole diameter being too large, which can be cured with a thin sleeve. Other choices include having the original drums relined, but that is costly.
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