Technical 1959 Chevy Truck Suspension, Axle and Brake Project

After 2 days of soak and probably 8 heat/ultrasonic cycles, the cover got wire wheeled and considering it’s original state cleaned up pretty nice. I pulled out the lacquer thinner and was ready to prep for paint. But I couldn’t leave well enough alone. I wrapped the cover in paper towels and soaked them with evaporust. Let’s see how it comes out.

 

Wasn’t perfect after 3 hours but way better than before. Primed, painted and waiting it’s turn to be installed.

 

After everything I did to the passenger side it still came out good. I test fitted a rotor and all the bolts lined up. I stuck it in the rear diff and ran an indicator around the back side of the axle face. With all the force and all the ways I tried to press those studs into that axle it was +/- .002 all around.

The driver side was a lot less eventful. I put a socket upside down under the stud to be pressed and one on top. Then stuck another one on the other side to hold the axle relatively straight. Put a piece of square tube next to the bottom to watch the axle wasn’t going crooked. Last I was was under the press to make sure the stud wasn’t going in crooked. Slowly, one pump at a time.


I took a big risk and probably should have just bought directly from Moser with the studs already installed. However I did save 2 bills and learned a new trick.

 

When I bought the kit I was buying for a 55-59 rear diff. Although the kit specs were exactly the same between 55-59 and 67-72 there were some issues with the install. I had to swap sides because in the instructions the spacers go out. This causes the brakes pads to be 1/2” offset.

Another issue was the holes in the bracket and the holes in the backer plate flange. The holes for the backer plate flange were opened long ago. For the brackets the holes had to be opened up from 3/8 to 13/32 for the bracket to sit flush on the flange. It seems like the spacers are one size and the brackets another and they were welded together. If you look in the picture you can almost make out the little step.


I only had the ambition to finish the drivers side today. This is a final test fit before I take it all apart and start doing the rest of the pre-work on the truck for this differential to go in.

As you can see in this shot the spacers are on the outside of the bracket.

In this shot you can see the rotor is sitting center in the caliper. One last note, the pads are so thick I had to pound the caliper on with a rubber mallet and the rotor won’t turn.

If anyone is interested the calipers and discs are rears for an 80-85 Seville

 

Looks good. I kept my straight axle too, but I installed one of Sid's 4" dropped ones

https://59chevypickup.webs.com/apps/photos/album?albumid=6869335

 

Thank you! I like your truck. I was thinking about getting a dropped axle but was afraid I would have to mess with steering geometry.

 

I put the passenger side brakes on today. The bracket is on an angle and will need .030 to get the bracket straight. Driver side bracket is also a little crooked and will need about .010 to get it straight.

I might be really over thinking this part. After I saw how crooked the passenger side was I pulled out the dial indicator. Driver side has a distance of 1.172-1.192 between the bracket and the bottom/top of the rotor. Passenger side has a distance of 1.132-1.154 between the bracket and the bottom/top of the rotor. That means the flanges have to be .050 off between sides from the factory.


I welded in new brake line clips in original locations but they might be in the way. I am trying to find a place where brake lines are not in the way and the rubber lines aren’t on any extreme turns.

The brackets need to get straight, spring perches need to be mounted and the sway bar will need to be mounted. Once those are done I will have a better idea of where the rubber lines will need to go and where the hard lines will need to go.

 

Be careful when using sockets to back up press work, they can shatter. Make friends with a buddy with a machine shop and pick up some cut off scrap pieces of steel. Some shops will give it to you.

 

Thanks Bob,

We actually have a good supplier in Long Island City. I get all my metal from him. Next time I go I’ll see if he’ll give me access to his scraps.

 

It looks good !

 

I have Fleischer Tube by me, I used to buy from him and he always gave me drop offs. Now the son runs it and he's a good guy too. See if you have scrap metal places that sell stuff. The 2 out by me are long gone. One had shopping carts with the weight on them, easy math at the checkout.

 

Thank you!

 

I think we’re practically neighbors in the Hambiverse If you’re talking about the one on Saxon I am going to pass by there.

 

I got the sway bar, rubber brake lines and the tee set up. If my eyes are right I just need to move the sway bar brackets out to the wheel side 1/2”. From there I can turn the Tee and build my brake lines around those mounts. There is enough room for the rubber line to go around spring mounts without any rough angles. At this point everything looks crude but I have nylon nuts and I don’t want to fight with those just yet. Next step is either cutting those stainless brake lines (they need to be cut anyway for new fittings for the Tee) or getting some nicopp.

 

I wasn’t happy with the fit of the brakes over the rotor. The rotor is 1-1/16” and the pads on the caliper only cleared 1-1/32”. I reached out to the manufacturer and they suggested removing the backer plates on the brakes. That made a big difference, that bought me 1/16”. I can spin the axles with the brakes on now

On to the brake lines…

 

Yup, just north of Moffit. I'm in West Islip.

 

Or just use impact sockets

 

Last time I was messing brake lines I broke my flaring die. It was stainless line, very unforgiving, tough to work with although very pretty. This time I decided to use nicopp, so far I am liking it. It is soft, bends a lot easier and kinks a lot less. I can easily file high spots with little effort.

The stainless steel lines that came with the original replacement kit were 3/16” on the rear.

I started bending 1/4” but thinking maybe I should stick with 3/16”. I’ll bend both for now while I have the ambition to do it.

 

The rear brake lines are done. The rubber lines clear the spring hangers and there are no hard angles. The metal lines clear the sway bar hardware. The smaller line required the bending tool, the longer line was all bent by hand. I hope these things don’t leak. I really don’t enjoy flaring. After it took so long to get all these parts assembled I took it all off until it is ready for installation.


Now the process of preparing the truck for the upgrade.

 

I love flaring now, with the Mastercool hydraulic tool. If you plan on doing a few vehicles (brake and fuel) and you can get a deal (black friday/cyber monday) or find a good used one. Pricey I know but I have yet to make a bum flare with it.

I have a crescent shaped scar above my eyebrow from using them in a vice (poor mans press) in the early 90s.

 

I will keep an eye open for one! I try to protect my face most times, I try to use some sort of shield. My hands are really exposed though.

 

It not happening soon but it will happen. Yes Virginia there is a Santa Claus.

Sometimes you find sales if you’re patient.