Just a do***entation process on rehabbing my project to something better. I had always wanted a vintage car particularly from the 50s and something that there weren't a bunch of (I have now realized why everyone fixes a Chevy). Now that I have at least some income and a space for it I pulled the trigger on this boat. I purchased the car in 2022. I received the microfilm punch card from Stellantis. Originally optioned for red on red vinyl interior and Radiant Red paint sold in the same city I live in on Route. 66. Car really didn't travel very far. It was also interesting that the dealership had a 4 digit number indicating it was an early one. Newspapers showed that it started in 1914 selling Maxwells before Chrysler bought them out and ceased in the 70s. Optioned out with a power swivel seat, dual rear antennas, tinted gl***, and front A/C. I am still using the original drivetrain, although it seams to be tired. The previous owner had the door panels and seats made. This is how it was when I purchased it. It has its rust holes, but not bad considering the era and never leaving the midwest. IMG_0848 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM IMG_0847 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM IMG_0849 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM It took months to get the cast iron torqueflite leaks under control. The shift cable o ring, neutral switch, transmission cooling line fitting had to be replaced. The shift cable housing was missing the rubber sleeve and ended using heat shrink & black RTV to seal. 279361229_10223091934220144_8373674009465397765_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:27 PM 279264641_10223091934100141_3422278933592202328_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:27 PM 279214062_10223091933900136_4756245318926080223_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:27 PM Gauges had to be gone through. The odometer did not work. The internals were swappped with a NOS Stewart Warner replacement part, plastic lens was polished with Plastx & painted. Needles painted with fishing lure paint, speedo oiled with liquid bearings. IMG_0271 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:31 PM IMG_0270 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:31 PM IMG_0269 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:31 PM IMG_0192 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:30 PM IMG_0189 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM 318771231_455628520059114_3753029638843041073_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM Seat is a 6-way power swivel seat (first year option) and didn't seem to want to move 100%. I spent many hours on it cleaning the gearbox, shafts, and making sure all the electrical connections were solid to only get it to work most of the time. Still has a hard time moving forward. A job for a later date. At least the seat is where I need it. I want to eventually convert the switch to use relays as I believe it is likely the culprit requiring 3 contacts for each direction 332038983_1258993001364887_3609286074358058533_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:30 PM 332401062_560985496086105_6592879660012988148_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:30 PM 332417447_898099797901972_6936570149903333723_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:30 PM 332431337_586127286432990_1443347741022936778_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:30 PM I used a Sanyo under dash FM radio w/ 8 track for music until I can figure out something better. Turns out they made a home unit so that you could take it out of your car and use it in your house. The rear dual antennas were shot and unobtainable. Found that a late 60s GM truck pair works with little modification in removing the bottom most mast. mounted 2 small speakers where the original 5x7 dash speaker was and 2 6x9s in the rear. 322366913_980976606210358_6804696046514409566_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM 322185386_679486673908341_986764258501233334_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM IMG_0057 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM 340332425_592831466120423_1122400289786480423_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM 340234859_615107820081930_2694671210182632525_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM 340123713_245181061286823_3189576217434336840_n (1) by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:29 PM I purchased a better steering wheel to fill with epoxy resin and to wrap in carbon fiber veil cloth & resin, sand, then paint to create a crack free wheel. This is a method a Canadian fellow does on his steering wheel restorations. The wrapping in cloth eliminates future cracks. IMG_0381 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM IMG_0375 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM Have to work on it as time permits, so conquering one thing at a time. Currently working on the roof getting coated. Lots of trim and parts had to be removed. Restoration Specialties was the only company that had my roof clips available.I am using a surface conditioning wheel in conjunction with Rust Kutter. I have not decided how to seal the roof clips if using 3M butyl caulk rope or butyl tape sealant for metal roofing from the hardware store. 428625219_10226804243945567_1582310421268690313_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM 427822033_10226788923682570_2034146719109235011_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:27 PM Replaced the Coys that came with it for 15 inch steel wheels from a Cordoba & wire hubcaps. Came with new tires, but still 2 inches too small from the factory diameter. Lots of rubber on these wheels. I also replaced all shocks & surprisingly found Sears All-State "Futuristic" shocks that dated to the mid 60s... Also added a local license topper of Bagness damn for quirks. IMG_0045 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM 286979925_10223312933864997_3240846823355552737_n by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:27 PM IMG_0038 by chstrumpetdude posted Jun 18, 2024 at 3:28 PM My next step is getting the roof clean for epoxy primer. I have not decided if I want to try to roll it on or go ahead and spray it yet. It will be a while before it gets painted regardless. To add insult to injury I get a runaway shift from 2-3 intermittently that I have decided it is either and adjustment issue or a worn rear band. One thing at a time.
On the transmission, the rear band is only used in manual low and reverse so it doesn't have anything to do with a 2-3 shift. The shift from 2-3 has the kickdown band releasing as the rear clutch is applying. The first thing I would do is check the throttle linkage. It should move smoothly through it's total range. Shift timing and operating pressure are directly related to the throttle linkage. It should move as soon as the throttle is opened with no free play. The second thing is the kickdown band adjustment. The front band adjuster screw is on the left side of the transmission. Back off the lock nut and tighten the band adjusting screw to 50 in. lb. (good and snug). Then back off the adjuster screw 2 1/4 turns and lock it down. The rear band on the right side of the case gets tightened to 50 in lb and backed off 2 5/8 turns. On band adjustment the amount the screw is backed off is the critical part of the adjustment. If neither of these adjustments fix the runnaway shift, the trans will have to come out. The rear clutch discs and/or seals are probably worn.
I like it. Looks much nicer with proper wheels and tires. Was the swivel bench recovered at one time? Seems like it's in awfully good shape if that's the original upholstery.
It was recovered within the last 10 years. They did a better job on the seats than the doors IMO. However, I believe they used the old foam for the middle. There is no burlap left and it sheds foam under it. Probably the most valuable part of the car.
Great looking '59! I have a '57, hit me up if you ever need anything. I completely understand about the old foam shedding. I should have been wearing safety gl***es the first few times I drove with those old seats. It made a mess!
Seat problem could be bad solenoids too, they're finicky when on their last legs. I think I've done 5 of these seat frames in the last 2 years, so definitely aware of the headaches involved; also if you haven't already torn down the articulating towers to be cleaned and lubed, that could be causing binding as well. The motor is actually pretty weak, so any resistance is going to make it byp***.
Love to see a red-on-red car being saved, even better that it's a less common but top-of-the-line(?) new Yorker 4-door hardtop. Keep us updated on your progress, please.
I haven't seen anyone else take pictures as dis***embled as your seat. I cleaned the gear box and lubed it with a synthetic oil (synthetic bearings) as I thought the grease might be making the shafts bind. Used white lithium grease on the cables. I was planning to take the articulating braces apart, but didn't think that would be the source of the binding at the time and not the easiest to take apart either and used penetrating oil on the joints I could see. I could get the motor and solenoids to function 100% off the seat, but not necessarily on the seat. Could very well be the articulating braces or a combination. Might be a job for future me.
You can always send your switch to JC Auto, they're the premier rebuilder of the electrical parts for these era Chrysler products: https://jcauto.com/contact Here's a couple options as well: Rebuild service: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256437094312 NOS Switch: https://www.ebay.com/itm/386441472986 Here's a snippet from a humorous tech video from 1959 describing diagnosing problems like yours:
All of this swivel seat discussion is going to come in handy when I eventually tear into mine. Caprockfabshop, if you find anything interesting going on with that seat, be sure to post pics.
Feel free to shoot me a PM if you end up with any questions, I like to take lots of pics during the restoration process so I likely have an answer.
Will do! I'm not tearing into it right now, but I likely will have questions when I get there, so I'll remember that, thanks!
I hit the roof with a surfacing conditioning tool from Harbor Freight. Didn't realize how pitted it was. I did the best I could, but there was some fine pits I couldn't get. Used Rust Kutter and then rolled on some DTM Kirker Epoxy primer. I used too much Rust Kutter. I brushed it on, but should have sprayed it. It was a pain to remove the residue. The epoxy primer worked really well. Not smooth, but was shooting for protection since IDK when this will ever get paint. Spraying is the better option, but space and time was not on my side with an infant. Roof clips were installed and sealed with butyl putty tape. I figure everything is covered with trim and if painted it wouldn't matter a whole lot. My goal was mostly to seal leaks up. I did this in the summer of 2024. Since then I have realized I should really try to remove the back gl*** at minimum due to some rust hole instrusion and make headliner installation easier. I purchased some Nextzett Gummi Pflege Stift. It is supposed to soften rubber and not be as harsh as brake or trans fluid tricks. My gasket is not reproduced and neither is the rear gl***. 73162517931__8F0A59F8-F34E-42C1-BBBD-D70A8D373137 by chstrumpetdude posted May 8, 2025 at 9:45 AM
The Jalopy Journal
