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1960 Ford Stalling Problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by onefish, Nov 13, 2005.

  1. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    Working out the last gremlins in the new ride. The story so far... I have a 1960 Ford 292, New Reman. Carb, New points, plugs, wires, condenser, Fresh Heads (valves still need dialing in with a feeler gauge but I have 100+ pounds in each cyl.), engine was rebuilt some 15 or so years ago and sat. Just had the tranny rebuilt. The timing has been checked twice and the dwell was set with a meter. I also noticed the coil to ignition wire was looking cracked and dry so I replaced the offending section of wire. Lastly a brand new battery and brushes in the generator. Now for the problem. I have an intermittent problem with the engine stalling when leaving from a stand still or stop. While driving, before I reach a standstill, the engine will begin to loose power and stumble before it stalls. One time I did not notice this so I'm not sure if this is every time. The guy I got it from said that he had dropped the gas tank and cleaned it out and put a new fuel pump on it. I put a new hard fuel line and filter on when I did the carb. After it stalls it cranks right back up with hardly any cranking so it seems to still have fuel. It happened a little while ago and I got it back home and let it run in the driveway while pushing on wires and things under the hood and nothing seems obvious. What do you guys think? I feel like I'm getting so close.
     

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  2. have you deciphered enough yet to guess wether it might be either electrical or fuel related? total stab in the dark, but, float level maybe?
     
  3. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    No, I'm not sure. It happens and then starts right back up with no cooldown. and I can continue to drive with no problems. I think loose wire and then again I think something blocking the fuel and then falling out of the way after starting again. Could it be a bad coil? Could it be that neutral switch at the column?
     
  4. SwitchBlade327
    Joined: Dec 15, 2002
    Posts: 2,911

    SwitchBlade327
    Member

    got a fuel pressure gauge you could hook up and see how it's acting?
     
  5. the neutral switch won't kill an already running car, only keep it from starting.
     
  6. jalopy43
    Joined: Jan 12, 2002
    Posts: 3,085

    jalopy43
    Member Emeritus

    Is it an automatic??? Could be it's missing the 'dashpot'. Uses engine vacuum to slowly ease the throttle into the idle position.:DSparky
     
  7. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    Yes, it is an automatic, but it's a non vacuum ford-o-matic.
    If it was vapor lock I would think it would have to cool down for a second before starting again. The hard fuel line is awfully close to the upper radiator hose although it doesn't feel too warm and the car runs fairly cool. No numbers on the gauge.
     
  8. jalopy43
    Joined: Jan 12, 2002
    Posts: 3,085

    jalopy43
    Member Emeritus

    Try setting the idle speed up a bit. I'm suspecting it's comming down to idle too fast,stumbling,and stalling out. If it's stalling when you punch it from a stop,Then I would say accellerator pump in the carb,is bad. I'll check with the man-u-al:DSparky
     
  9. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    Carb is a new replacement from NAPA. The engine runs good 99.9% of the time. This is a very intermittent problem.
     
  10. Check the vacuum port hooked to distributor for vacuum...also chek the vacuum servo that advances timing at distributor.

    check the advance /points mounting plate[ in ]distributor itself to see if it is stuck.
     
  11. Do you have a vacuum brake booster?

    Does it crap out when stepping on the brake..
     
  12. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    It has a new vacuum advance. and no vacuum brake booster. no it does not stall when hitting the brakes.
     
  13. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,750

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    drive it around with the gas cap off,

    see if it recurs.
     
  14. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    I was wondering about that. Once when it happened I thought I was out of gas and when I took the cap of you could hear the air go in and the tank pop like it was under suction. Should the cap be vented?
     
  15. Jack "goose' Marinelli
    Joined: May 27, 2005
    Posts: 175

    Jack "goose' Marinelli
    Member

    I'd sure check the float level in the carb, even thought its reman, most of the reman stuff is shit anyway.
     
  16. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    If it was the float level would it not be a more frequent problem, not just one incident every 50 miles or so.
     
  17. rebarsfords
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 477

    rebarsfords
    Member

    Maybe also check your grounds.....battery grounded to the block....is the block gounded to the firewall & frame, etc.
     
  18. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,750

    stealthcruiser
    Member


    Yes.
    fluid out,air in.
    no vacuum on the tank that way.
    it maintains atmospheric pressure .
     
  19. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    Here is the latest. After limping home in about 1/4 mile bursts; the problem is more consistent now, I changed the new fuel filter for a new fuel filter and I also added one of those inline glass ones between the carb and fuel pump. What I can now see happening is the fuel level in the glass filter starts dropping after the engine warms up.:confused: It will slowly drop and then jump back up to just a little bubble in the top. So does this mean fuel pump or drop the tank and check the other end of the line?
     
  20. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,388

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    I'd put all new plugs/wires/cap/rotor in it. My truck would stall out when the rotor got carboned up.
     
  21. onefish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 85

    onefish
    Member

    Just to complete the thread. Today I dropped the tank and found the vent tube was pinched so that is why It wasn't getting air. I also found that there is a filter on the bottom of the fuel filter, If it was a snake it would have bit me. Opened it up and found rusty and dirty fuel.:eek: Long story short I also had to replace the fuel pump. I guess along with being old it had to work so hard with a bad filter and non venting tank that it went belly up. The rust is probably coming from the lines. I don't feel like changin them out right now. I think I'll just run through a few filters for now. New pump definitely makes more pressure. Thanks for the help.
     

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