Okay, so I have read all other posts that I could find both here and on other sites and can't really find the info I'm looking for. I have a fresh built 1961 Thunderbird 390 FE with the Edelbrock RPM intake. I would like to run the original valve covers and air cleaner to maintain a stock appearance. I could really use some (photo) input on what some of you folks have done with a similar non stock setup. Thanks! Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Really unconventional but here is how I did it on my 390 FE Edelbrock vintage tri-power on my Mysterion clone. Didn't want a road tube and definitely didn't want the usual plumbing hanging all over the engine. Drilled and tapped an (1/4"?) NPT hole in the intale runner under the manifold. Should work ok. Air inlet @ the stock oil filler cap, PCV protected from sucking oil by the oil deflector panel screwed to the bottom of the manifold. Put a Welch plug in the road tube hole.
That unmachined flat area at the rear of the manifold is to allow you to just that, the old basket with mesh setup is available, as are covers with nipples or just a threaded hole. Machine the new manifold and drill and tap holes to match the old setup and plumb it up. The harder part is getting oil in the engine, the RPM does not have a boss in the front for the filler tube. There are ways, depending on how bad you want to run the original covers
Problem is you not only need the PCV port, you also need a filtered fresh air inlet. Late model engines put those on opposing valve covers which defeats the vintage look. Older engines used oil filler tubes and PVC/road tubes in the manifold, clean valve covers.
I hate when people kludge up the original rounded valve covers to add filler necks, breathers, etc. - they're fuugly. You want to use the original rounded valve covers and the original air cleaner? Sell or trade your intake and find an aluminum intake with an oil filler tube - like one of the original Ford units for a 352 hipo/390 hipo/406 4v's, and run the basket PCV setup in the back, but that will also require a carb spacer with a hose nipple/port for a hose to pull the fumes from the back of the engine into the manifold. Think '62-'64 Ford/T-bird with PCV but with the basket instead of the cap in the stock cast iron intake with the hose nipple. Otherwise I'd recommend the '65-'67 valve covers with oil filler in the driver's side and PCV grommet at the rear of the passenger cover. There was a dress-up option for '66-'67 GTs that had these covers plated. Yeah, they're kinda boxy looking and don't have the "curves" and sex appeal of the '58-'64 ones, but they'd do the job. Otherwise, find a set of finned aluminum covers like M/T's or even repops of the Cobra LeMans covers that have an oil filler neck and PCV hole. What's the original air cleaner you're using - a "pancake" Ford unit from '61-'62 with the stubby rectangular inlet on the side, the '61-'63 T-bird one with the stubby rectangular inlet at the front, or ?
I’m not so sure this will work as it is expected to . I really think this may get oil soaked and be sucking in more than vapors .
When I ran an aluminum intake without PCV on an FE, I use the factory 289 4V carb spacer. It has PCV port in the back without the water lines running through it like the FE one does. Or do like Mean Gene and Yutan Flash said and use the basket PCV in the back. The manifold you show has the place for it.
You could always pull the distrib and pour oil in! How often do you change the oil????....once a year? Once you pull the dizzy a few times on a FoMoCo you sorta get the knack-of-it. 6sally6
"the RPM does not have a boss in the front for the filler tube"- which is where the vented cap used to be. The RPM, Streetmaster and such are strange in that they kept the boss at the rear for the basket, but not in front for the filler tube. The easiest way is just swap for an older aluminum manifold with both, and then the original covers will work. This is the Offy on the early 60's hot rodded 390 that was in my 57 Ranchero- something like this is the right height and has the plumbing options to work in your car with the original stuff
Thank you all for the input. Lots to consider. I do still have all of the old factory components including the vacuum/ coolant rise for the carburetor. I will have to check my clearances to see if that will still work with my new setup. If not, I will most likely use one of the 2 large manifold vacuum ports at the base of my Holly carburetor unless you all think that's a bad idea. It sounds like it may be foolish for me to try to use the old valve covers with my new intake. I dont have any problem pulling the dizzy for oil changes and would like to keep the new intake I have at least until I run into problems. Do you think it is acceptable to just pull baffled vacuum from the valve covers into the fuel mixture area of the intake or do I need to pull vacuum from the underside of the intake manifold as well. Before the rebuild, the PCV provisions had been removed entirely and although the engine ran fine and didn't smoke, I had lost compression in the back 2 cylinders. I'm guessing that this may have been from other issues. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks again Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Jalopy, if I run a setup similar to yours, am I just using a T to connect both vacuum lines into a manifold port? Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Never mind that last comment. I wasn't thinking. I still need fresh air inside the engine case so I guess I would pull PCV from one valve cover and then put a breather cap on the other side. I'm looking now at using an oil catch can in line from the PCV before it goes back into the intake. Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I agree if the manifold didn't have that big sheet metal baffle. Should not be any worse than oil bouncing around inside a valve cover.
This is true OEM baskets are a valley pan .aftermarket are open , at lease the gaskets I have used . The pan should work fine
Forgot about the Phord valley pan. That pan should do the job then add the Edelbrock pan that screws to the bottom of the manifold and have double protection. I am pretty sure my PCV location is ok.
And I just remembered. If you look closely, my PCV valve is sucking gas almost right where the port is for the external PCV or road tube exits the manifold. My valve sees exactly what those two would see.
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