I'm helping a friend replace all his power window motor/regulators. He had all the motors freshened up. 3 of the 4 motor/regulators went smooth when reinstalling them. But the passenger door is having an issue ( 2 door convertible) So it works great when the door is open. Up and down a million miles an hour, no issues. But with the door closed, it's slow going up and then won't go any further than half way. So I've concluded that the top of the vent window is seating itself against the A channel too soon. So that pushes the top of the vent window out, causing the forward window channel to go out of alignment with the back window channel, causing the window to twist putting pressure everywhere and binding the whole procedure. There are two adjusting screws for the vent window. One at the bottom of the front window vertical tack, and one at the bottom of the forward vent assembly arm. That arm extends down below the vent window about 8 inches or so, which is where that adjuster is. We took precaution before removing the vent window in order to remove the side window, in order to remove the motor/regulator. Making sure we took measurements of the adjuster screw. But with everything back to where it was when we took things apart, I have the issue as explained above. Ideally I'd like some advice from someone who has dealt with this on the same car. I think it is just a combination of adjusting those two long adjusting screws. The rear vertical track doesn't seem to have any side to side adjustment so it basically stays put and the front needs to match it. I can't seem to get the top of the vent window out far enough so that when I close the door, it doesn't move.
When I did my OT66 Fairlane convertible I bought a factory shop manual, albeit they weren't power however for a small investment it made top and side glass adjustment a lot simpler. My 1/4 glass frames were pot metal and as such there is no give, adjustment needs to be correct.
My friend has the factory service manual and there is no mention as to adjustments for the power windows.
Question. Were the doors taken off when motors were out? If so are the front fenders back on and aligned? The door alignment does make a big difference in the glass alignment. if none of the above applies, losen all glass track and vent will nod adjustment points so there is enough slop to move but so the glass will still go up and down. Then with the window down gently shut the door and roll the window up, all of this with the top up and latched, and see where it is functionally. If it will go up and down properly snug up each adjustment point where it’s at cycling the window up and down between each bolt tightened. Don’t be afraid to try and tweak things a little to make it where it needs to be. This is how I was taught to do it when I did the GM convertible top course in the 90s when I worked for Chevy.
Good call on making the adjustments with the top up and latched. With the top down the body is capable of having a surprisingly greater amount of flex, even when stationary. Especially when compared to a coupe or hardtop.
This is what you need........... https://www.opgi.com/books/service-...ody-manual-1963-all-buick-models-br00340.html
Didn't touch the doors, just pulled the regulators/motors. As I mentioned, with the door closed the window won't go up past half way. We have made about a dozen combinations of in and out of the two adjuster screws. There is one major mounting screw that fastens the vent window assembly to the body of the car. I'm going to put a washer, or maybe two, between the vent window assembly and the inner panel of the door, which it is fastened to. In theory this will push the vent window to the outside of the car. Therefore in theory it should allow the door to close without any pressure on that vent window. It's worth a try even if just to see what effect it has.
Thanks for the link. I went there to see if there is one for the Oldsmobile, but no luck. Nothing on Google either. Even if I did find a Fisher body parts manual, I doubt there would be any coverage on adjusting the regulator and window tracks, because I don't think that they would fall into the category of a body part. But thanks anyways.
From your description, those adjusting screws don't seem to be doing their job. The screws should be bearing against something fixed or solid so the vent window tilts in or out when the screws are turned. Try closing the door about an inch short of being fully latched so that there is little to no contact or pressure from the A-pillar. Then adjust the screws and note any changes in the degree of gap between the A-pillar and the vent frame. It should be noticeable that it does indeed adjust. Maybe the first step would be to eyeball the door really well to make sure that there is no excessive sagging. How are the gaps and does the trim and the body creases line up on both the front and back edge of the door? Too much sag can leave you with not enough possible adjustment at the vent window. Adjusting the door naturally adjusts the vent too. You may have to go so far as to reinforce the chassis and body mounts under the door area. You probably know all this and I mean no putdown of your skills. But it never hurts to review the basics when offered by someone else. Good luck getting a happy resolution.
All Fisher Body manuals cover windows, convertible tops and various other components attached to the body.
The adjusters are about 3 inches long. About one inch from one end is a fixed washer like plate. That plate fits on the back side of the inner door panel. The one inch or so, protrudes through the opening in the inner door panel and it has a slot in the end of it. A one piece nut/washer threads on and between the slot screw driver, and a 7/16" wrench is what makes the adjustment. They are both in good working order and they do move the vent window assembly. The doors and windows were both in good operating condition other than the motors were just tired. So nothing has been altered as far as the fitting of the doors etc. I noticed that the bottom sliding track that one arm of the regulator slides in. Has vertical adjustments available on one end. ( vertical slot) Also the bottom of the long arm of the vent window assemble has a horizontal slot where that 3" adjuster is situated. So by adjusting those two, that may tilt both windows ( fore and aft) so that in combination of in and out adjustment may be the answer. However, those adjustments have been put back where they were when disassembled, as the paint on the inner door, shows where the washers were. I'll give it another try tomorrow.
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