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Customs 1963 rambler wagon needs to be bagged

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Taylor Robinson, Feb 12, 2010.

  1. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,299

    farna
    Member

    Yes, that's factory 63 770 trim. In 63-68 there were three trim levels in the Classic line -- 550, 660, 770 (and 770H, but the "H" stood for hardtop and was a top of the line two door hardtop. It DOES NOT stand for "Hurst"!!). In 66 the "660" was dropped -- there was no "middle" line. In 67 the 770 became the middle and the SST was the top of the line model. Numbers were dropped for 69 and there was just a base and SST model.

    The 63-64 550 got no side trim (base model), 660 had the same as the 770 on the front fender, but the double line with insert ended a few inches into the front door and the single top line went the length of the car. The 770 got the double line and insert the full length.
     
  2. cage66
    Joined: Jun 4, 2010
    Posts: 117

    cage66
    Member
    from reno

    What is the best way to lower a rambler? I see it is coils on all 4 corners. Looks like it would be fairly easy to bag but I dont have that kind of money right now. Can you jus cut down the coils?
    Also what is the lug pattern?
     
  3. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,299

    farna
    Member

    The BEST way to lower the front is to use lowering plates. The spindles bolt off. I have plans for a plate to bolt between the spindle and steering knuckle that will lower it 1-5/8". You can alter the bolt holes to lower more. Some of the Rambler guys have lowered as much as ~2-1/2" by putting the lower spindle holes in line with the upper holes on the steering knuckle (and of course the plate between). That's as far as I'd recommend going. For about an inch you can just order new springs from www.coilsprings.com. That's what I'd recommend for the rear.

    The coil springs have flat ends on both ends to fit in the spring seats, so just cutting isn't advised. You'd have to heat the last coil to flatten it and heating takes temper out. Doesn't matter than you heat just the last coil, the heat will travel up the steel spring.

    They are pretty darn easy to bag, as you noted. Here are some links to bagged Rambler projects:
    http://www.rgkustoms.com/rambler/index.html (look through photos)
    http://theamcforum.com/forum/1964-rambler-990h_topic26498.html (lots of resto work mixed in with the bagging project)
    http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/project-bag-the-rambler-383783/

    The wheel pattern is 5 x 4.5", AMC/Ford/Chrysler and big Toyotas use the same pattern. The center hole is a bit small on a lot of Ford stock wheels, but Chrysler and aftermarket wheels bolt right on.
     
  4. flathead okie
    Joined: May 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,480

    flathead okie
    Member

    I had a 65 Badassador Wagon in 72. It had a 327 4 bbl 3spd w/od. It was pretty fast for what it was.

    I would have another.
     
  5. DaddyO's..Deuce
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 786

    DaddyO's..Deuce
    Member
    from Missery

    Here are a couple pics of one for sale locally.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. dkendall
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 101

    dkendall
    Member Emeritus

    Ramblers have turned out to be a lot of fun for me. My wagon and my convert.
     

    Attached Files:

    Gremlinguy likes this.
  7. bbc 1957 gasser
    Joined: Aug 3, 2007
    Posts: 683

    bbc 1957 gasser
    Member

    2 much fast n loud i guess
     
  8. cage66
    Joined: Jun 4, 2010
    Posts: 117

    cage66
    Member
    from reno

    Can you lower the rear without messing anything up? The reason I ask is I dont see any universal joints and I have never seen a setup like this. Where does the driveline pivot?

    Also what was the stock size tires? The tires on mine are HUGE and will all rub when I lower it. Its on aftermarket rims so I will be swapping back to the stocks.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2012
  9. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,299

    farna
    Member

    What you have is called a Torque-Tube. There is a driveshaft inside the tube. There is a single universal joint at the transmission end inside the tube. The flange on the tube that bolts to the transmission "floats" -- it's not welded to the tube. The tube has a flared flange inside with a thick rubber cushion between the tube flare and the transmission. The rubber gives and allows flexing. The u-joint will last almost forever since it gets no dust and dirt on it. There should be no oil inside the tube -- the trans and pinion shaft on the axle have standard seals.

    Stock wheels were 14x6 or 14x6.5. Tires were 6.50x14 standard with 7.00x14 optional. V-8 models (Ambassador) got 7.50x14 (on 14x7 wheels). A 6.50x14 is roughly equivalent to a 185/75R14 or 195/70R14. The 7.00x14 is close to a 195/75R14 or 205/70R14. 15" wheels were optional starting in 65, 15x6 wheels, 6.50x15 tires (195/70R15). You can run 7" wheels with 205 tires with no problem. I'm running 215/65R15 on mine and could probably run 225's without rubbing.

    The only ting you might mess up is the panhard rod if you lower too much. It should sit parallel with the car at ride height. With no load the end on the axle is just a little down hill. The axle will move about 1/4" to the left when loaded and the bar is parallel with the ground. It will move to the right as much as 1/4" as the suspension travels. It should'nt move much more than that unless the rear bumper is jacked up and the wheels are off the ground.

    Taking the springs out is easy. Disconnect the park brake cable and brake line, then disconnect the shocks and panhard rod. Jack the rear bumper up until the springs come out. The shocks are the downward limiter of travel. To remove the rear end or torque tube you do the same, just take the four bolts attaching the tube to the transmission out as well and roll the rear axle back. It might be stuck, so you may have to push or pull hard on the axle. I always put a floor jack under the rear axle, jack the car up, take the wheels off, then put jack stands under the body right in front of the wheel wells. That way you don't have to jack the rear bumper 4' up to roll the axle back and out.

    The only problem with the torque-tube is you can't move the car with the transmission or axle out, not easily anyway. With the trans out there's nothing holding the axle in place.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2012

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