Projects 1964 Falcon B/FX Build Thread

Hopefully my windows will be here Friday or Saturday and I can get it done this weekend!

 

Almost all installed. I used the factory hardware and now they roll up and down with a little ingenuity



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Before:
Ok this is how I installed lexan MR10 windows in the falcon. It is by no means a professional way, the right way or a way that might work for you, but was the easiest engineering I could come up with and keep the roll up windows. If you don't want roll up windows, you can buy the little tube frame and tab kit to go around the exterior of the window.

1. For some reason I decided I wanted lexan and shopped around. I found "shakedown racing" online and that they had pre cut pieces for a 64-65 falcon hardtop. I elected to go with 3/16" thickness over the standard 1/8" for stability and it allowed me to use stick hardware. Two door windows pre-cut were $188 plus shopping.

2. Remove arm rest, window crank and door panel (if you have them).

3. Take factory stops off of the window frame (one in front and one in back.

4. Remove rollers and slide window out. Remove vent window as well with the 3 bolts that hold it in and the bolt at the bottom of the vent window channel inside the door.

5. Once everything is out, cover the car up so no flying metal lands on the paint. I next cut out the support for the vent window frame that connects the inner and putter doors kinds together , completely out.


6. Take apart factory window and frame, pull lexan protective coating back about an inch all the way around so you can install the lexan into the factory window frame. Once it was secure in frame I drilled a hole through the metal frame and lexan from the inside and screwed a #6 by 1/2" screw in the top and made a matching hole in the bottom of the window frame near where the roller track is and installed another screw to hold the window in place.



7. Test fit the window by sliding in through the window felt and In The back channel of the door near the door latch. The front of the window on mine was too long. I cut the front of the window point off and made it flat. I next used my 4 1/2" angle grinder with a metal cutting blade to slot out the opening where the on vent window used to bolt to at the front of the door opening, near the hinge. This allows for the window to move up and down.



8. Put the widow in the door and attach to rollers (take the metal clips out of the rollers as you will have the window in and out a couple times. The protective coating should still be on it. Roll the window up and down, pushing all the way back to the latch side to make sure it clears the slot you cut in the front. If it doesn't, make the proper cuts to the door.

9. Since there is no track in the front if the window now, I fabricated one out of 1/2" aluminum tune, a 1/2" conduit clamp and a 90 degree piece of metal used to hold two piece of wood together during construction. All items I found at Home Depot.



10. I bent the 90 piece of metal into a shape that would hold the aluminum rod. I drilled a hole in the aluminum rod and matching hole in the metal bracket I created and screwed them together. I drilled a hole in the door panel to accept this new bracket and wedged the rod up in the door. Once I tightened the bracket to the door it does not move. I used the conduit clamp and attached to the lexan , looping around the aluminum rod.





10. Test the window and make sure it goes up and down. I am adding additional stainless steel trim to the area where the vent window would be on the lexan to give it a lot more strength, but it is pretty tight once rolled up all the way.
After:

This is the way I found to work for me, let me know if you have any questions or ideas on how to improve it. I wanted to keep it low cost and simple.


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Nice work. How much weight savings are we talking about?

 

Probably a couple pounds at most, not enough to notice anything... I just like the look better.


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Nice job and explanation Mike, I'm thinking more than a couple pounds though, the vent window frame itself is heavy, 10#s per side ya think?.............Al

 

Mike;one thing I noticed with your new front support is it looks to be against the door skin,if so it could dent the skin!! ROY.

 

It rides up on the outer edge of the window channel. I will add a rubber bumper to the top of it so it is not metal to metal. That should cushion it from causing any dents. Thanks Roy.

 

No more gas tank!



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KOOL,now you can stash a couple of bodies back there for ballast!!!! ROY.

 

The birth of the Mercury Mafia ^^^^^

 

Nice Quote LoudBang!!!!!!!!..........Al

 

Mike;you got that wreck ready for some T-N-T????? ROY.

 

Roy it's ready to go, all the alcohol is cleaned out and lines disconnected... I'm thinking September 5th at Bakersfield they have an all Ford Weekend race. Hopefully this will get me dialed in for the CHHR


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KOOL!!!! Windows are finished?Switches are all in?Gauges all in and working? ROY.

 

I need to finish the windows, almost done and move the switches to where we talked about, but waiting for parts. Shouldn't take me than a couple hours.

I need to order new seat belts too, used for 4 races and they are expired. What a waste!!

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Mike;Test-N-Tune this Sunday at Fontucky! I'll be at the CAF air show!!! ROY.

 

For sale 4"x1.75" vinyl sticker. Perfect addition to that old ford. $6.50 includes shipping
Also my new shirts came in

$20 shipped within US


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Cool Mike, did you get windows done and any TNT yet?........Al

 

Windows are done and On my way to Bakersfield on Friday!


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Car looks fantastic Mike!

I'll take an xl shirt....and a FoMoCo 2x4 intake please....Seriously....I'm not gonna stop hassling you until you sell me that intake so I can stomp some Chevy ass at the Meltdown next year...!

Scott


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Scott, I can't let my intake go! It was a gift from another racer. I have a torkerII and performer I can let go.. But not that one.. I wish I could clone it real quick for you


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Mike,
The shirt looks awesome,and I'm serious.Im sending you some bucks for a shirt.

I totally understand about the intake.Ive got some parts with sentimental value too.

Did you ever see the car once I got it all lettered up?Its still slow,but it looks really cool...search "Scott Archers Mustang" on YouTube.
Your car was a big inspiration for me to go ahead and do the lettering job.

Your car has really come together with the wheels,the lexan,the injectors....It really does look like it rolled out of the 60's.
Nice job Man!

Scott


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It looks the part,now if we can get the owner to DRIVE it like he stole it!!!!! ROY.

 

What are you talking about! That's faster than several of my first runs!


Your car looks cool and sounds good, a little more traction off the starting line and your in the 12s easy!


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Mike,
It actually hooks really hard,but bogs like crazy with the 3.70's in it.
I'm stepping up to 4.56's for next year....and a Liberty Toploader.

Thanks a bunch for the compliments on the car Man!

Scott


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Use a SOFT clutch or a slipper clutch with the Liberty Toploader unless you like broken four speeds!!! This advice comes from my experience with one,THREE broken transmissions,three rebuilds by Liberty[on my dime] before I learned about clutches!! ROY.

 

Scott I have an almost brand new mcleod soft loc with 8 passes for a sbf.. Kinda thinking of selling it. Let me know if you are interested


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Pm sent


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What about the LONG shifter? ROY.