Projects 1965 F100 father and sons project

Message to the all knowing HAMB. Signal light harness from LMC for a 1965 F100 is a 7 wire. My column is an 8 wire. is the 8th wire the hazard switch and does this look like my column is from a F100? Hazard light is integral on my signal mechanism.

I replaced the steering column lower bushing with a bearing a while back but, top of column jiggled so figured I'd dig into that - top of column looks slightly bent? The steering wheel rubs on the signal collar. if I had another column I'd likely jettison this one. Might try to just rewire the column reusing the new signal cancel mechanism until I find a column I can rebuild from scratch. the top looks like it's tweaked from a panic stop with someone stiff arming the wheel. Not a full collision kink.

 

More befuddling stuff. My old ignition switch has labeled terminals. New one doesn't, also no instructions. Damn, came into this task thinking quick and easy.

Next up was getting new key cylinder into the ignition switch. Again no instructions. I've tried every which way to get it to lock in. Does the pin hole factor into this or will pushing it fatally eject its guts onto my lap.

 

Back of key and new bezel installed with new ignition switch. Centre stud on new switch likely for the starter but, after that????

 

The switch should be marked. B For batter. S for starter....the center pole is accessory.

 

Ha ha, actually it 'should' be marked but, it's not. Research this morning reveals I have a 73-79 column where the wiring harness pops out of the top of the column which interferes with the clutch mechanism. She's a Frankenstein. Smacked the column straight and will put a couple of tack welds in to hold the wiring harness chase that broke loose up top. One of the 2 bearings is missing at the top of the column too. My truck had F150 disk brakes on the twin I beam so suspect a 73-79 truck was raided for parts back in its history.

 

Rebuilt the top of the column. Spliced in new wire onto the old signal cancelling switch. Tweaked and hammered the column straight. It looks centered on the gauges now. Installed voltage stabilizer on the instrument cluster. Will call supplier tomorrow and ask how to wire the ignition switch then send the juice through it. I have the column layed over because the clutch arm hits the spot where the wires come out of the column in the straight up location. Endless.

 

New headlight switch came in yesterday - will install when we get back from a car show later today. Didn't get around to calling the ignition switch supplier. My signal cancelling switch isn't the culprit, the stock steering wheel has a pin in the back that should hit the cancelling switch but, just misses. '65 wheel '79 column. I was able to verify because there is an even larger hole I can now see through as another hunk broke off my original wheel hub. Not a deal breaker because I've been lusting for a 1940 replica wheel. I'll tack a few welds to the pin to trip the cancelling switch for now. Looking for some cool round taillights. Maybe double stacked.

 

Headlight switch.
So Built not Bought Right!! If I just bought a truck I would have missed out on the following:
1. Paying more for shipping than the part.
2. Modifying to make the bolt on part, bolt on.
3. Finding out our switch doesn't work - new out of the box after modifying it to fit.
Where would the fun have been in avoiding all that?!!
The shaft does not engage the switch so when you pull the shaft it comes out instead of turning on the lights. And, I don't have any cold beer!!! So, I've tapped it lightly to get whatever mechanical grab to grab. No go. Tapped the release pin gently. About to hit it not so gently before placing it in front of my tire - then driving over it.

 

Cleaned all the contacts in the old headlight switch with spray type electrical cleaner (basically drowned it) then reconnected. Hazards now work as do left and right signals so it came back to life somewhat although it's still a bit sloppy compared to the new switch. Dash lights still don't work so think the switch is still the problem. I had dash lights when I first rewired the truck. May try a parts store again and see if they have anything now that I have something to hold in my hand to compare.

 

Here's a new one. I have United Pacific headlights with a built in LED signal light. The reason is I have a '64 upper valence and a '65 grill. No provision for signal lights in this setup but, a clean look. From Day 1, both signals up front flashed at the same time, everything else flashed as normal - headlights on or off. I wired in resistors and no change. Just pulled the indicator bulb from the dash and signals up front now flash independently? Now it hyperflashs on the driver's side out back with regular flash interval everywhere else. Headlghts on - No signal up front. Turn headlghts off signals normal again. I still have my old headlight switch in there. Weird stuff these incandescent/L.E.D. combos. I'm legal if I drive during daytime hours.

 

Just got back from Luxury Salmon Fishing - yup there is such a thing. Took the truck for a burn and heard a rattle that sounded like the damn thing was falling apart. Couldn't figure it out so pulled a wheel and stared for what seemed like ages then finally realized my shock mount had broken off. I see my weld through primer obviously didn't allow me to weld through so build the truck, now tear it apart. I'm still a bit hung over so as I'm lying underneath I suddenly wake up thinking the only spots that had weld through were spot welds. This is the only item I did structural welding through primer - I think. Not sure that leaves me overly confident but, looked over everything and I think I'm OK to grind down and reweld the shock mount. May paint the inner fenders before bolting it together again. Frustrating but, had at least a 1/2 hour nap under an old truck on a Canada Day long weekend. Also now see a brake line I had not secured to the frame had come up and would have been buzzing against the bottom of the floor pan.

 

Inner fender off, may as well grab a piece of copper and start welding up 26 holes that are not supposed to be there before paint and install. This because a shock mount broke off - kinda sidetracked.

 

Shock mounts are under a lot of force. I've had one I welded on break off before too. Now I make a double pass just to be sure.

Also make sure the bump stops hit before the shock bottoms out.

 

Shock mount welded back on. Double pass done. Got carried away with the inner fender - again. Probably the single biggest amount of time is on the 2 of them. All primed on driver's side. Will sand it smooth and paint. Not going to mud it up like I should - need to get it back on the road.

 

Primed then will sand it smooth fill and paint. First step towards making the inner fenders look too nice compared to the fender hanging on them then I'll eventually have to paint the whole damn truck. Needed to fill some holes in the firewall along with some items I skipped on the way to rushing through some cosmetic items.

 

I don't know if you ever got that headlight switch figured out. I had the same trouble. But after reading up on that, I found that the shaft will snap in if you bend the back of the switch up so the holes are in alignment. If you look at it closely you can see that the part where the shaft goes into is not aligned with the bezel.
Why they make 'em that way? I don't know
Your shock mount really needs a gusset on the inside down to the frame.
The inner fenders look great!

 

This is great input. As I understand it, Ford used this basic switch design on most Ford models throughout the 60s/70s. I have been experiencing the same issue as Will; getting the shaft to latch after insertion has entailed multi-maneuvering and the luck of the draw. Many thanks for clearing it up.

 

Thanks Mike, I hadn't sorted the switch yet so will get into it. As for the gusset. I ran a double pass and built the tower with an internal gusset each side to give me room to slide the inner fender on. You are probably right about it needing something to brace back to the frame. My plan down the road is to completely remove the remaining old crossmember where it welds to the inside of the frame then plate the inner frame where the new cross member bolts up. It will clean up that area a lot and I will gusset the shock tower if it still needs it. I've seen lots of mods online for my front suspension I may explore down the road that will see me possibly removing the shocks for another version depending on what I use the truck for.

 

On the switch in your picture...
Where your finger is on the top, and where the other end is....Squeeze those two ends of the switch together, in a vice, by hand, channel locks.... Then as you squeeze, push the shaft in. When the two ends of the switch are aligned, it'll snap in.
It's a funky design. I have a GM switch in mine and it is the same. I even have a new switch that I bought because I was having such a difficult time understanding.
On the gusset....
I don't mean to be preachy, but you really do need to spread that shock load out. Sooner than later, even if it's temporary. With such a small area of attachment, it will fail again. Even a plate from the top of the shock mount to the inside edge of the frame rail will strengthen it tremendously. And yes you may need to trim the inner fender.
I take no chances on suspension. Overbuilt is far better than just good enough.

 

Good advise. I have it all apart now so could get something in there that will be low profile enough to avoid trimming the inner fender.

 

After reading a few threads on painting your own vehicle I pushed my kid to attack the failed clear coat on the roof of his OT car. All 3 of us had a hand in it then I went after the inner fender of our project truck doing what I said I wasn't going to do. Fill/sand/paint.

 

Back at it. Inner fender painted. I see defects all over but, not going to get too worked up given our paint is Tremclad Recreational White out of a rattle can. I wouldn't do the exterior but, inner fenders with stuff bolted on all over it is OK. Banging kinks and dents out of the lower valence while I'm at it but, don't have colour matched blue yet. Trying to get back on the road Monday which eliminates the other inner fender this round.

 

Cars and Coffee tomorrow am. Might try a thrash session tonight and drive in style.

 

went out for dinner which minimizes the thrash but, here goes!

 

Forgot the 3 bolts that retain the hood latch to the rad support don't have a threaded retainer so you have to jam your fingers in there and get a nut on the bolt through a blind hole. I dropped a few in the rad support then got a finger good and stuck. Aside from that, it's coming together. Update: 11:30 pm and it's done. will do a start up in the am and if uneventful we're off to the local C&C.

 

Good show this morning for a few reasons. I went solo and spent the whole time yacking with new peeps. Truck ran like a champ until halfway home when brakes started dragging bad. Cracked the master off the booster and McGyvered a shim between and it made it the rest of the way home without a hitch. Met some nice people today on a sunny Sunday by the sea.

 

I have to say driving our pickup brings out the best in people compared to driving an OT truck. No one is in a rush, they wave, they come out and talk. I had to stop and split the master from the booster again. I have the plunger threaded in as deep as it will go and it still seems to drag a bit after multiple stops in a row. Keeping a box end wrench on the seat to do this little task. Makes it an interactive experience. Brakes are awesome though.

 

My kid and I have been painting his roof and clear coat was last night. We've both been enjoying it and the results are pretty good - OT car with dark grey graphite metallic buried under 2k clear. It got me going as I've always liked Watson Panel paint and after staring at our pickup I decided it just doesn't fit the theme to do it with the door art. But, tucked under the hood, those inner fenders have cool ribs and are screaming panel paint. Going to try some fineline pinstripe today. This car is my inspiration. I really am drawn to customs, The stock tail lights might not last the summer and headlights have been on the idea board for a while. Think mild custom is the route I want to go. So many diversions.

 

Wholly inspired by @Moriarity's panel striped Vette. Our truck is pretty bland looking so $9 in vinyl striping later we have what could be redone in paint. I like it.

 

That was a fun project, Neither loud nor dirty and I went back to Canadian Tire 2x for a total of 4 pkgs of pin striping. This was the double stripe stuff that I cut with scissors and lapped the truck in excess of 250 feet of stripe. I'm the only fan in our house but, had a blast. Asymetrical panels on the hood and box sides. Groovy Baby!