Howdy all…. Hopefully somebody can help me with the tailgate power window wiring on my ’61 Chevy Parkwood wagon. The tailgate window was working fine, and then original motor died. In my search for a replacement I came across a few posts stating that a ’85 Caprice motor was a direct bolt in (including a post from Jethro way back in 2017). So I purchased one of those motors and it did bolt right on to the ’61 regulator with a little minor grinding. The biggest difference between the 2 motors is the ’61 has 3 wire connections, and the ’85 motor only has 2. I thought that the 3rd connection on the original motor was a ground that was connected to the safety switch on the side of the tailgate, so I figured that the 85 motor was probably self grounding so I could just hook the up and down wires to it and eliminate the safety switch altogether and be back in business. Problem now is when I hook up the battery there is power going to one of the motor wires constantly so the motor runs all the way to stop and stays there. The switches don’t do anything. I thought that there should only be power to either of the up and down wires when one of the switches (under dash or on the tailgate) was operated? I chased the wire harness to where it plugs in in the spare tire well and there is 12volt power to both the red and yellow wires at the plug coming from the front of the car? Is that correct? I’m now wondering if maybe the wiring to the tailgate motor has been modified, or if I just don’t understand how it should work. If anyone can has done a similar conversion can educate me it would be much appreciated. Thanks - Gary
Usually motors for power windows have only two wires, neither is "ground". One is connected to positive and the other to negative, for one direction, and they are switched for the other direction. This type motor would have permanent magnets inside it, I think.
@squirrel , are you suggesting a five pin power window switch like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09C...wp13NParams&th=1#immersive-view_1657763332019 Here is the wiring diagram for this switch:
If there's power on the yellow wire from the dash switch, then that switch is stuck "on", I think. It would help to see a good picture or two of the switch, and some testing results on it with an Ohm meter in it's various positions (with the wiring connector disconnected from it)
Later GM motors used what I call a reversing switch, might not be the proper name, sorry. You may need to change your switch to later one. Power in to switch, and a ground. Trying to find a quick and dirty schematic, as I'm too tired to put in to words tonight.
You nailed it Squirrel! Problem solved.... I finally got the wagon home from the paint shop last night so I could work on it. I pulled the switch out from under the dash and put the OHM meter on it and it was stuck on. It is 2 yr old aftermarket switch I bought from Ecklers. Didn't last long for $100... Guess they don't make 'em like GM did. I think I'm just going to make a new one with a momentary switch. Thanks again to all for the suggestions!
Was there 3 wires on the original motor? Only seeing 2 in the diagram. You can make the original wiring/switches work with 2 Bosch style relays (after repairing/replacing the defective switch).
Seems to me I used a DPDT momentary reversing switch from a winch or something like that. It had a higher current rating and was pretty stout.
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