I thought it would be a good project to convert my 1929 A roadster to V8 with a newer synchro trans and having never done this before I purchased the Old Yankee AV8 conversion kit from Millworks. The kit is top quality and very complete. As I progressed following the included instructions it became apparent that there might be some differences from car to car on some dimensions. The center trans mount bracket on my car needed to be farther forward because the supplied trans bracket blocked installation of the speedo cable on the torque tube. I solved this by making a 1/2" aluminum bar spacer to move the bracket forward which now allows clearance to connect the speedo cable. I had installed the front motor mounts per the instructions using the existing holes in the frame intended for the factory shock mounting. I was unable to get the trans fully connected to the torque tube and the clamshell would not fully come together. I ended up unbolting the the motor mounts from the frame and making the trans/torque tube connection and re-drilling the motor mount holes. As far as vertical placement of the motor mounts I decided to just center the crankshaft to the crank lever bracket on the front spring mount. The carb mounting flange on the intake manifold is level so I ***ume the engine angle is correct. Everything seems now to have clearance and should work OK. I did remove the factory electrical box bump out on the firewall and I have the cast offset breather from Gear Drive Speed & Custom which works well. This is all new to me and the next one I do will go a little better after this experience. Next is modification and installation of the Ford F1 steering box. H.A.M.B. has been extremely helpful so far and I will continue to read all that I can from you folks that know a whole lot more about this hobby than I do. Thanks!
nice work. very little 'bolts straight up' but it looks like the kit is a good thing. more photos of the whole car would be good, what are your broader plans?
Car had juice brakes when I bought it and they are still brand new. I'll install an 18 gallon fuel tank and pump in the trunk as well as the battery. I'll most likely leave the rear deck lid hinged as it is for rumble seat. Couple of gauges and a choke cable in the stock instrument panel. Wiring all under the seat. F1 steering and I'll weld up a front to back stainless exhaust which will give me a project to use my new laser welder on. Just need to get this finished up so I can get back on my A speedster project. Thanks for asking.
Very nice build, I like the direction you are going what are the plans for the banger? Does it run? They are one of the best engines ever built.
Well I mounted the banger engine/trans plus radiator, 1 gallon fuel tank, new battery, throttle linkage, complete exhaust, etc. on a pallet and sold it in running condition to a fellow in Michigan that had a cracked block on his banger motor. All around good deal for both of us. Thanks for asking.
I finally got around to trying out the laser welder on some s****s of 6061 0.063 aluminum. This is the first weld, about 5-6 seconds for the 3" bead. 100% weld penetration. Been welding for 50+ years and I've never seen anything like it. Probably will not use my TIG machine as much now.
Nice project. We have a laser welder at work and just started tinkering with it, it's pretty impressive.
Good looking project, I think to suit the build you should switch the gauges for older stewart warners. I like your finger for holding the pieces to weld. The laser weld looks real good.
Fitting a Tanks 18 gallon fuel tank so we have a little more range with the V8. Can't say enough good things about the Tanks folks. Great customer service and very well made products.
Nice to see someone tackle this from the get go as most threads are about modding something that already has a V8 installed. I’m still curious to know all the bits that need modding to make an AV8. Looking good!
Actually not a lot needs altered. The A steering box will interfere with the cylinder head on the drivers side so I am using a F1 box. There will be some minor t******* of the firewall to clear the fuel pump stand. You can use an offset breather as pictured or if you choose to go with an electric fuel pump you can eliminate the mechanical fuel pump and use an angled breather as in the photo. Motor and trans mounts are straight forward and exhaust and cooling fan are about the only other items to address. Old Yankee kit from Millworks makes everything easier for a price. Thanks for asking.
Got the fuel filler, pickup, and sender in the tank and the tank mounted so time to work on the F1 steering box. Seems like everyone has a different way to remove the F1 box flange. I decided to make a fixture for my mag drill. I bolted the box to a plate and then a couple of stands to raise the drill to the working height. I made a plug from Delrin and drilled a 1/4" hole through to help guide the hole saw. I used a 2.125" x 2" Morse Bi-Metal hole saw. I used Tap Heavy for a lubricant during the cut which works very well. I'm not sure how far the new flange needs to go onto the box so everything clears the head and exhaust manifold but mocking everything up should answer that question.
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