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2.0/2.3 ford

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by zimm, Dec 3, 2006.

  1. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    nah its a 2.3 froma 87 fuel injected 4 cyl with distributor..not coil pak...so i can use it i will strip it down and make a manifold adapter for a carb and ill weld up a header should be cool
     
  2. I need a little help from the 2.3 experts. I've read through quite a few posts about these little motors here, and I couldn't find an answer for what I need.

    My friend's Dad is in the process of restoring a '78 Ford Courier (yeah, I know, not HAMB friendly, but please bear with me). It has the Pinto 2.3 in it. To make a long story short, when he got the truck, the wiring and electrical system in it was junk. He asked me if I would help him re-wire the truck since I have done a few cars in the past. He had me look around the HAMB and we ended up getting a wiring kit from Glenn33 at Rebel Wire. I think it will be pretty straight forward, except for the ignition system.

    I'm not real familiar with Ford engines of any size, but I've been around cars all my life and with the help of others we have always managed to figure things out. But, the ignition system on this truck is strange. The distributor looks like your typical 4 banger unit, 5 holes in the cap, going to each cylinder and one to the coil. After that is where I get lost. The coil is mounted on the driver's side fenderwell, then under that is a small metal box. There is a red and green wire coming out of the distributor that plugs into a little two wire harness coming out of the metal box. On the other side of the metal box is a harness with a bunch of wires that plug into another harness. Some wires run down the fenderwell and under the truck, and a few go into the main wiring harness into the cab behind the dash.

    When we re-wire the truck, we want to simplify all this and eliminate this box and go with a typical ignition system. Can this box be eliminated and wired with a ballast resistor or something similar to make it work or will the distributor have to be changed out? If it does need to be changed out, what distributor from what year/model Ford do we need to be on the lookout for?

    Sorry for the slightly off topic post, but I figured this thread would be the place to ask this question. Thanks in advance for any help! E
     
  3. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,526

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Make sure that you have the "blue module" where the wires come out at.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. jdg_
    Joined: Feb 13, 2010
    Posts: 1

    jdg_
    Member

    Has anyone swapped one of these into a falcon? Seems like a 2.3 turbo would be great in, say, an early 2-door falcon wagon!
     
  5. Anderhart Speed
    Joined: Nov 8, 2009
    Posts: 356

    Anderhart Speed
    Member

    I have a question related to this thread but I'm sort of hi-jacking here, so I apologize in advance. A few days ago I started a thread to see what guys opinions were on LS and Modular engines dressed in traditional fashion in old iron. The thread was closed after 8 hours and I don't know why. I don't know who closed it and I assume that it was considered too o/t but I have seen numerous threads about modern engine dressed to look old. Does anyone know why this happened? Its something I think about a lot because of the availability of modern engines, inexpensive costs (compared to some vintage pieces) and I think being different is cool. I'm not aggravated at all about it, I'm just wondering why it was closed so rapidly while others almost exactly like it remain? Thanks, and sorry for the hi-jack.
     
  6. todd_a
    Joined: Apr 18, 2009
    Posts: 397

    todd_a
    Member
    from Tyler, TX

    So, are there any pics of Model A's with the 2.3 liter turbocharged engines installed? I'd like to see how these look in the cars.
     
  7. grego31
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 451

    grego31
    Member
    from Sac, CA

    I have only been able to find one decent picture of a very clean install from a web site www.turbojoe.com
    It is in a 29 A.
    I talked to him a couple of times about the A and is a very nice guy with a ton of info.
     
  8. RDAH
    Joined: Mar 23, 2007
    Posts: 465

    RDAH
    Member
    from NL, WI

    FYI, Ford Areo Stars have a nice header on them. Had a Ranger 2.3 bored .030 over, Ross pistons, balanced, turbo cam, Offy intake, w/Holley 390 carb, 2.5 exaust w/glass pack. Boy that sucker would bark when you nailed it. Had a little traction problem thou.
     
  9. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    can anyone give me a quick or as quick as you can about electrical on this engine ..87 2.3 4 cylinder with a distributor not coil packs
    1st on the distributor what color wires need power so i can get spark...i know i need a coil so that i understand..
    also on the alt what wire needs to see power so it will keep the battery charged ...just basic electrical..maybe someone has a wire diagram i can look at or has used this set up before ..thanks
     
  10. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

  11. OldCrow
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 134

    OldCrow
    Member

    2.0 in my 31 A

    OC
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,526

    Kenneth S
    Member

    lorodz, take the tfi distributor out of it and put a duraspark distributor in it, get the duraspark blue ignition module and wire it up like this.
    [​IMG]

    Which alternator are you using?
     
  13. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    where can i get these 2 items you speak of what auto part store part numbers will also help thanks..im trying to get this in the car in the next couple of days so any info would help me out thanks
     
  14. zimm
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 802

    zimm
    Member
    from iowa

  15. I have the 2.0 on a stand waiting for a project probably a track T . It has TRW 11.5to 1 pistons , ported close chamber head , 2- 40mm DCOE Weber carbs on an Australian Warnaford intake.
    During the 1970's Buddy Ingrasol ran a Pinto in Comp Eliminator at the dragswith a turboed 2.0 and it went well. Rob.
     
  16. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    lets get some picture of that motor woody i would love to see it ...

    mine wont be in for a while busy at school just today i picked up the distributor,the module ,new cap and rotor and i paid under 100 bucks for everything fairly cheap....thanks to Kenneth S<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_4942164", true); </SCRIPT> for all the help ...hopefully the motor will be installed shortley..
     
  17. 1929
    Joined: Jun 19, 2009
    Posts: 35

    1929
    Member
    from Pomona

  18. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    has anyone made progress on the 2.0 2.3 project ...
     
  19. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    I asked on another thread, but better try here, too.

    Can anyone point me to a 2.3/2.5 application having a front sump on the late model 1pc rear seal, 1 pc pan gasket engine block?

    I am swaping a 2.5 with the cast pan into a '62 Falcon. I know about the $$$ circle track pans, just looking for an OE part.

    Thanks
     
  20. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    not really shure but speedway has a bunch of diffrent pans and pump styles for this application..ya just have to go to the speedway.com web site and go to the race car section i think..
     
  21. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,526

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Except for the 1980 Pinto, all the 2.3's 1979, and later all used rear sump pans.
     
  22. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    That's a bummer. I hate to spend $400 on a circle track pan. I could build one, but that job really makes $400 look like a bargain. Maybe rack & pinion steering is on the menu.

    Thanks Guys
     
  23. Hey 4-bangers;

    I just picked up my first four-banger engine for a project. I THINK I want to keep the EFI for drive-ability??? Has anybody found a good way to keep the EFI, yet keep some element of having the engine look somewhat like an older non-EFI engine? IE: hiding wires, sensors, etc. with dummy panels, parts or small shrouds. Any pictures?

    The engine is still in the wrecked Ranger. I need to pull out the caved-in body panels so I can get the engine running before removing it. The truck frame does NOT appear to be bent.
     
  24. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    it takes a while to get a answer on this topic ....i also need to know if anyone has been able to swap the fuel pump ...is there a way to use a pump on the engine verse elctrical pump just for future refrance ...

    also just picked up my 5 speed trans today a guy gave it to me for 50 bucks from a junker mustang he was a cool old guy..now i need a fly wheel and clutch and i can drop down onb the rails and get it running..
     
  25. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,526

    Kenneth S
    Member


    I got my O/T 88 ranger that was FI 2.3, someone or somebody robbed alot of parts off the FI system by cutting the wires to remove parts. I put a 350 holley 2 barrel on it, since it's my beater I would really liked to have FI so I could just hop in and go when it's cold instead of having to let it warm up some. The hwy gas mileage is the same or a tiny bit better than a FI 2.3 is, but the city gas mileage a little lower than a FI 2.3 but it does have a little more "beans" than my brothers 91 FI 2.3 eventhough my truck is heavier than his (mine is a super cab, his is a regular cab).

    My sugestion, do it which ever way you want to, you can either take the time to re-route the wiring, and hide what components you can, or ditch the electronics, and put a carb, and duraspark ignition on it.
    BTW what year model is the ranger, it can make a big difference in your decision.


    lorodz, on the mechanical fuel pump it also depends on what year the engine is.
     
  26. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,526

    Kenneth S
    Member

    The auxiliary shaft has lobe on it to run a fuel pump Some 2.3 had a block off plate, then they didn't machine the block for one (the boss is still cast into the block), in 1995 they redesigned the block in that area, and eliminated the fuel pump boss.
     
  27. Thanks for the responses. My donor Ranger is a 1995 model with the 5-speed.

    Just think, behind all that twisted metal is a heart donor waiting to give life to some hot rod!


    [​IMG]
     
  28. As for 90's Ranger 2.3 engines, which is the best one and why?
     
  29. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,526

    Kenneth S
    Member

    With the 95 you are better off keeping the electronics on it, it may be more trouble than it's worth to convert it depending on your skill level, the 1988 and earlier rangers, and the 1990 earlier mustangs are the better ones if you want to go carburated, with a simpler ignition system. They made more, and more changes to it when they went to the dual plug head in 89 rangers, and 91 mustangs. Some of the 95 - 01 rangers have a factory stroker crank making them a 2.5L
     
  30. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    mine is a 87 so i guess i can run a manual fuel pump....if not no biggie ill pick up aq small electric pump ....

    update ..
    today just picked up a new clutch kit its a heavy duty pressure plate and puck clutch ..i got hooked up a friend works at a shop and they had one in stock from a couple years ago ..got it for 50 bucks ..so now im into my 4 bangger for
    40 for the motor
    50 for the clutch
    50 for a good bog warner 5 speed, and new clutch cable. now i need to find the flywheel.
     

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