Technical 2 speed powerglide wont go into second gear

In the steel vacuum line to the modulator, you'll sometimes find a short section that was crimped down at the factory to partially restrict and dampen the vacuum signal to the modulator. This was done to slightly "soften" the shifts. The restriction in the pipe is pretty small and can get easily plugged with debris and delay or prevent upshifts. It's a simple job to cut out this crimped restriction with a small tubing cutter and replace it with a short section of hose. This will ***ure that you get full manifold vacuum at the modulator and can give you a firmer, crisper upshift, but not so harsh that it will rattle your fillings.

The factory liked smoother, softer shifting as that's what most owners preferred. But to do so it meant that the softer shift came at the price of additional slippage in the clutches and bands. Which means added heat in the trans and accelerated clutch and band wear. For longer transmission life you do want to feel a quick, crisp upshift and a drop in engine RPM (with no flare-up between gears) that will slightly set you back in the seat.

 

Has it always been like that? Have you gotten under it to see if something changed/broke/came loose?
Or are you saying the linkage drops down when you put it in drive?

 

Its been like that atleast since December and it was changing gears fine at that stage, ill be getting under it tonight to see whats going on as it doesn't seem right, im just mentioning when its in drive thats how low the linkages sit, on the column when it drive the stick has nearly 40mm of play

 

For clarification, I ask those same type of questions at work each night, I kinda live with it too. So say I change a water pump, now my car instead of leaking is over heating, see?
So let me ask a few more questions, the 40mm of play, has it always been there, it may have been and now that you have an issue, you are dialing in and being critical. But if the 40mm of play has always been there, sure, could lead to a solution, but caused by what?

I like the idea of getting the vehicle up, and having someone play with the shifter and you see what’s going on.
But as several mentioned before, it may be an adjustment on the rod (unrelated to what the shifter is doing maybe, maybe not?) by all means follow their advice before mine.
I just look for changes/differences when something isn’t right anymore and go from there.

 

When was the rear pump eliminated in the Powerglide-'65?

 

That begs the question, are you really putting it in drive or is there too much slack in the linkage to tell?

 

Yeah your 100% the play has alwways been there mate, also nothing has been adjusted either though so this has just happened randomly which makes me feel something has gave up inside the gearbox

 

I thought that but it was shifting into second just late and when i backed off the revs, then yesterday it was in second and dropped back to 1st at 80kmh and now i cant get second at all

 

How do i check if the bands needs adjusting?

 

how do i tell if the pumps ******ed?

 

Ok after further ***essing the gearbox and reading everyones ideas, how do i check if the rear pump and govenor is faulty? The linkage on the column is really loose in drive and the linkage set up underneath when in drives sits lower then the ch***is. Someone mentioned on another thread about a bent "rooster comb" wtf is that? Once all this is checked i will drop the sump on the gearbox and check for cevidence that the clutch is stuffed. Also how do i know if its the bands that need replacing or if its a linkage problem? I heard also on another forum id i disconnect the kickdown off the carbie linkage and drive it then it will go into second at low speed IF the clutch and pump are still ok? Is this true? Thanks again

 

I would address all the linkage first. Make sure the manual linkage is tight, meaning no slop. Make sure each position on the column lines up with a detent in the trans. For instance, in park on the column is park in the trans. Move to reverse on the column and that should be one click or detent away from park. Continue with N,D,and L. Very important these are aligned. Then move to the throttle valve linkage. Make sure it moves freely. When the carb is at wide open throttle the linkage should push the trans arm to the stop. The band in the trans is only for low gear. Has nothing to do with high gear other than it must release.

 

If you have low gear, it is not the band. You could service the governor and rear pump in the car by pulling the tail shaft off. However, I would first check the linkage and make sure it is in drive when you shift it at the column. Even if you end up having to pull the transmission the linkage needs to be right. If you fix the slop and it still won't shift, drop the pan and look for debris. If the clutch is fried you should see debris in the pan. Fixing any other internals is easiest with the transmission out of the car.

 

I believe what is being referred to as the “rooster comb” is was makes the detent in the trans when selecting a gear. Never had the pan of a PG, but should be accessible with the pan dropped. It will connect to the shaft that the linkage hooks to.

 

Hi Harleyv89, in your profile it does not show where you are located. Let us know where you are and maybe there is a member close by that can help you with this as it’s starting to look more complex. Having said that I’d have to agree with a lot of other replies that the first thing to do is to get the selector and “kick down” or throttle linkage set up correctly. No point tearing the back of the trans off or even the pan if it’s just getting linkages set right. And I would strongly suggest getting a good workshop manual for your car. It will pay for itself many times if you intend to work on the car yourself.
Cheers

 

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I don't know if the Picture with this post also got quote transferred.....but there is something badly wrong here....Chevrolet would never send a car out with transmission linkage that hangs that far below the frame rail.
Too easy for it to get snagged by a road hazard..... a view from the side like that you should barely be able to see even a hint of the shift linkage.

 

Nothing really lines up on the column and when its in drive is has 40mm of play, all the linkages are very sloppy but i dont know how to adjust them

 

People have mentioned "detent in the trans" alot what do you mean by that?

 

Hi mate, good idea im in Myrtleford, Victoria.
Alot of people have mentioned the linkages to be set correctly but i haven't adjusted anything and this has just happened out of no where. I ordered a powerglide manual but yes i will be going through my workshop manual today

 

Notice (when things are right) say you pull back on the shifter to select a gear/position. Each gear/position you should feel it want to stop there. That’s the detent. I’m sure a few minutes on Google would yield a good pic, maybe even a video of showing it an action.

 

My thoughts exactly mate and it has got snagged a couple times and broke the split pin off

 

Ok i think i understand now, well when i pull down to drive it slides down to first easily also in first i dont have to pull it back to put it into drive it just goes straight in

 

I’ve mentioned it before, but I’m not a transmission guy. I did see the thread that referenced the rooster comb. As I looked through it some spoke of them coming loose/etc.

Pull the pan, trans fluid is cheaper than taking it to a shop, new filter (if they have one) and gasket and then you can see if any issues the the inside and the RC.
Also you can get a good look at what’s going on with the linkage and kick down as well.

 

Yeah, that’s most likely what’s wrong. It’s actually in manual low not in drive. Take the linkage off of the transmission and see how it feels when you just move the transmission arm by itself. Basically eliminating the column and everything. Use caution and don’t run over yourself! It will roll if you take it out of park!

 

Yeah thats true might give it a go

 

Yeah true you might be right there, i had my partner changing gears on the column while i watched the linkage on the trans and it seemed to be moving but maybe what they call the "rooster comb" inside the pan in stuffed

 

How do i adjust the linkages?

 

There should be an adjustment at one end or another of the shift rod. Look at a previous post of mine where I described it. Basically, gear shift in park, trans in park. Do that through all the gears. If you take the linkage off the transmission arm you should feel each gear detent. Click, click,click etc. they are in succession. Park, reverse, neutral, drive and low.

 

Ok i get you, ill take it off at the gearbox end and change gears on the box itself and make sure it goes through all 5 clicks (p,r,n,d,l)

 

Were you under the car with the car in the air, or looking at it from down low from the side(like your pic of the linkage). You really need to be under it and see it all while in action.
You’ll need to be under it if you plan on pulling the pan and servicing the fluid anyways.
Safe way is get a 2/10 board. Depending on the length you use, make some “step ramps” cut the boards at 45 degrees. The bottom board will be the longest, and progress to a shorter board on top.
I made a “3 step” ramps for my daughters imports so my old fat *** could get under the front to do oil changes. For the transmission you may need to go another step or two.
Even at 61 I’m scared of depending on jackstands. But that’s me