1952 chevy pickup with stock 216 brand new batt. shows 6.3 volts across the terminals brand new positive and negative cables attached to freshly ground bare metal took solenoid apart and it looks very clean, test with ohm meter showed minimal resisitance starter turns over PAINFULLY slow, when I bench tested it with 12 volts is spins great voltage drop show a drop of something like 2 volts at starter when the ****on is pushed, even when hooked to the charge on "engine start" I am guessing something inside the starter is worn drawing way too many amps, causing the huge voltage drop??? Plan on pulling it apart, what to look for, test, etc. Rebuild kit w/new solenoid is around $70 from Chevs of the 40's, new starter will be around $150... Is it possible to just clean up the brushes and such inside the starter and see if that will allow it to spin faster?? Has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condensor, points, just set the valves, fuel in carb, accelerator pump is squirting, has about 100 psi compression, etc. I just think it is turning over too slow to fire??? We had it running once but the water pump was leaking so we replaced it and now can't get it to fire???
i had same issues..coverted to 12volts no issues again....i didnt want to, be got sick of getting stuck places......johnny
There should be 3 grounds. One goes from the frame to the battery and the other two go from the bell housing to the frame (on both sides)
Earth the starter, bellhousing and block with the correct gauge cables, make sure the earths are really clean and tight and you should not have a problem. Remember to try the cheap simple things before converting to 12 volts or buying a new starter. They were built with six volt systems because when they are right they work.
good to check. switched to semi cables on my 6 volt system and made a hell of a difference on start ups. I would check grounds too, they get me every time!
Forget about the stupid way the factory grounded the frame and engine.Run the ground cable directly from the battery to the bellhousing using one of the 3/8 bolts holding the starter pedal linkage bracket on the right side.Then a #10 wire to the frame and body . X2 two on the 2/0 battery cables. I know more than a few guys running 6 volt GM stuff that starts just fine.My avatar Willys is 6 volt and cranks over pretty fast in cold weather.It does have a starter rebuilt by a local place that actually does good work. Not to say your starter motor needs attention also?
Try disconnecting the coil and then removing all of the spark plugs to see if it turns over any better. Jon.
Do have grounds from the batt. to the frame and the bellhousing to the frame... I do have some welding cable around here I will try and make some new cables using that and see if it improves...
Build new pos. cable out of welding cable, still turned over slow... disconnected the 6 volt batt. and hooked up the jump box (12 volt) turned over great and fired right up... So I am guessing the problem is in the starter? Something is old and worn inside the starter causing it to drag down the 6 volt system? After this little experiment its REAL hard not considering switching to 12 volts...
Where was the voltage drop measured while cranking? 2 volts drop from + batt post to starter post or - post to block is WAY too much. It could be a poor bolted connection, bad cable, or undersized cable, or a combination. The voltage drop will point where the problem is. Feeling or measuring for hot section will too. On of those inductive ammeters is handy to see if the starter is really drawing excessive amps. http://www.stuttgartperformanceengineering.com/IMAGES/inductiveammeter/inducammpx5web.jpg Did it ever start well? What if somebody put a 12 volt starter in previously?
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