No advice here, really, but just an experience I had with a motor a few years older than that. Probably had never had detergent oil in it. Detergent oil is good. Changed regurarly it helps prevent sludge buildup. I took off the pan and cleaned it thouroughly. That little exercise resulted in more work. The sludge in the bottom of the pan must have been there for half a century! Anyhow, there was rust pits in the bottom from water settling in the pan, over time the bottom had got so thin that when I cleaned it some pinholes opened up and it leaked. Not to disuade you from dropping the pan cleaning the sludge out and cleaning that pickup screen, which is my preference to using ATF or anything but lubricating oil. If you loosen up too much crud, the chunks could restrict the flow to the oil pump when it is stopped by the screen. I've seen that happen too. Best, drop the pan, anything else is a shortcut, might get away with it, might not. Whatever you do, seperate the wheat from the chaff. They had detergent oil in the day that car was built, it came from the factory with 'breakin oil', from then on detergent oil was fine. Oil companies wanted us to change our oil, make sales. With straight grade, we changed oil twice a year, 20 weight winter, 30 weight summer. Multigrade, like 10-30 is fine. In the summer, in Arizona, at 90 to 100F, 20-50 is fine.
Straight won't hurt, unless it's too thin or too thick for the temperatrue. That applies at initial startup and warmup. With heavier weight, in cold weather, it's thick and puts unnecessary load on the oil pump. Until it warms up flow is restricted to the low-flow areas, can be to the point of overheating a bearing or journal. In hot weather, lighter weight gets too thin to give proper lubrication. Owner's manuals give temp ranges. With multigrade, your range, and requirement to change is widened.
ok , im doing the motor swap tommarrow morning. Just for the last chance I want to make sure Im doing the right thing! what should I do?? Im sorry if I sound anal or dumb. I just dont want to be screwing this motor up.
Well, if you'll have the motor out anyway, you should just drop the pan and clean any crap like everyone's saying. The ATF thing is a decent idea when dropping the pan is a pain, but if you've got it out it's a cake walk. Pluss you can get a look at the rod and main bearings while you're in there too. And in reality your best bet on oil probably would be a 20w50.
I would go with 10-30 in winter, because I would be heading up into the Sierra a lot in the winter. In summer I would go with 20-50. I use Valvoline. I like to change my oil twice a year no matter how many miles are on it. Oil's cheaper than motor overhaul. If you're adverse to changing twice a year, probably 20-50.
Holding to everything already said, this dont change any of that, theres another issue you can prepare yourself for. In old high mileage motors, especially where it might have had non-detergent ran for a long time, the carbon buildup in the ring lands wont all come out with one shot of ATF. My way of dealing with that is to plan on frequent oil changes with modern oil. Over time the cleaning effect will do that. Have had good luck on most. In my present project, a 292 chevy that came out of a school bus, (changed for high oil consumption and smoking), I was open to the fact that I might have to overhaul it. But, I didnt, and now it looks like I might not have to. After 5 oil changes in as many months, 5-30w, picked because I suspected stuck rings, and a lot of short driving, almost every other day for just farting around, it is cleaning up. Less smoke on start-up, seems to have more pop out the exhaust and has very little blow-by. When I first started it was blowing smoke out the breather and smoked A LOT out the exhaust. Now, after the fact, I attribute the smoking to stuck rings. With all of that and carrying good oil pressure and no rattles, I feel I have a motor that will do for the forseeable future.
maybe I will just run regular oil and frequent oil changes. See the motor in the truck now was great with no problems. Then when I did aan oil change thats when everything started happening. Started smoking like crazy! but only on exceleration, well I could still smell it at idle. Wish I could use that motor still. But I think Im just going to run the new one for the time being and completely rebuild the old one or do a v8 swap
I have had very good luck unfreezing these butterflies with brake fluid. They were designed to help the engine warm-up faster, and when they work are helpful.
Ok so I wet to the parts store and bought allthe gaskepts,point,condensor etc everything! also motor mounts haha. So now I have to wait an hour to receive them, Now Im still wondering whos advice to go with on the oil situation.
well I pulled the old motor out and the new one is getting prepped. The fuel pump on this one is vaccum for wipers. which fuel line is inlet and out let? theres one on the top and then one on the bottm.
if you need an exhaust manifold that isnt cracked, i have a couple layin' here. the heat dampers arent that hard to free up either. just use heat and PB blaster... grab it by the counterweight and slowly move it back and forth. lemme know if you need the manifold, i can dig one out of the snow
Well the motor and trans Is back in the truck, finally! I wanted to fire it up tonight but I cant decde on what to do with the oil situation still also the exhaust issue.
This is not your pump but it is a dual action pump for vacuum wipers. The two tubes at the top are for the wiper hoses. The bottom section with the 2 threaded inlets is for the fuel lines. The bottom threaded port is the fuel from the tank. The one just above it is the outlet to the carb.
I figured it out yesterday, but thanks for the help tommy. I ned a few more oppinions on the oil, what do you guys think?
You are over thinking the oil bit. Just load it up with some straight 30 detergent oil and light the f!!ker off.
Yeah I guess your right. Its just that Im hearing soo many things and not sure what to beleive. So straight 30 weight ? should I add lucas or no?
lucas is ok to run, just run an oil presser gauge and see what your oil presser is if it drops alot when it warms up then you probly need thicker oil but it will probly be just fine, again dont worry about the heaver oil unless your hot oil presser drops alot, if it ran good befor it should be fine!
see thats just the thing, I dont know much history on this motor. The guy I got it from said it ran good. He oulled it out about 4 weeks ago for a small block. The motor is dirty on the outside but firly clean on the inside. Spark plugs looked good,points,rotor and cap are new. Its just under the valve cover was a but dirty and sludgy. Thats why Im not sure if I should put regular oil,straight 30 weight or streight 30 weight and a quart of lucas.
start with just the 30 wt that wont hurt anything! it sounds like it was a good motor, just change the oil more often at first. the car im driving now had really dirty oil but good oil presser, i changed the oil every 500 miles and now it will stay pretty clean for about 1000 miles i have put 15000 miles on mine and its still going strong!! good luck, cobey
Finally went down and picked up some 30 weight oil. On the old motor it was converted to spin on oil filter and the new one still has the old style canister on it. Will the old motor have an adapter I can take off and put on the new one? The new motor behind the canistwer is like a thin plate of metal I guess like a splash sheild or something?
Pull the adapter off the old motor and put it on the new. That way you have the common spin on Ford filter. Very popular C/O years ago.
In the center of the filter mounting area the threaded stud the filter screws on has a hex. Just unscrew it and use it and the adapter plate under it. Replace any gaskets as needed.
Well, just about done buttoning up all the odds and ends. Should be able to fire up tonight or tommarrow. I just wanted to make sure I got all of the sludge out of the top of the head before putting the valve cover back on same with the oil pan.
Just about done. Its too dark now, so In the morning should be able to finish and start this thing up! Anyone know the gap specs o the spark plugs and ponts for the 223? Does .35 for theplugs sound right? what about the points?
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