235 diy honing and polishing can it be done?

I'm with Terrible Tom. With all respect to the OP, the impression I get from your post is that you're kinda new to this stuff. With all respect to the people who posted here, they're talking to you as if you know how to use machinist's tools and such.

Building an engine isn't easy or cheap. Replacement engines can be found pretty easy and cheap.

 

That is because the way a knurl works it knurls both sides of something round.

I don't particularly care for knurled pistons it is a stop gap measure made when there is either no money present or no replacement parts available.

if one is close enough to knurl a piston a forged piston will take up the slack forged pistons use a larger clearance than a cast piston does. If you alread have forged pistons and are on the outer limits of specs you can get them coated and take up a couple of thousandths.

Merc,
The thread posted is written for the novice. It doesn't use any tool any more complicated than a caliper and uses it for comparison only.

 

Merc,
The thread posted is written for the novice. It doesn't use any tool any more complicated than a caliper and uses it for comparison only.[/QUOTE]

******:

Knurling and micrometers and taper and measurements in the thousandths are not the stuff of "novice" expertise. We're talking to a guy who rotated his flywheel with a big claw hammer who wants to perform a home-brewed rebuild without any equipment.

 

This is a great thread full of advice we can all use. Heck, it makes me want to uncover my 235 in the corner of the garage and tear it apart just for S's and G's.

 

Wow, this thread has gotten some action....Sounds like an easy task for some of you. I wish I had the knowledge and skills that some of you claim to have....Its Unfortunate for me that my skills and tools are limited for this engine overhaul. My wallet can also use some help there for its a used motor instead of a full rebuild or a mickie mouse job that will cost me parts,tools that I cant really afford on a gamble that I am measuring right... I posted an add on clist for a wanted running 235...hoping someone bites and is tempted to sell.. Never knew that these motors were so hard to find in running condition.

By the way I ended up checking out that so called rebuilt 235 engine on page 1 that I was taking about...Let me tell ya the thing was FUBAR. He claimed that it was a good motor but when i got there it was seized and rusty , it looked more like an anchor then a motor.....the nerve of some people!!!!!

 

read the thread then come back to me.

Feeler gauges, plastigauge and a galloping caliper. He can get numbers close enough to post and we can give him a semi educated answer. Oh and a torque wernch.

We can give no responsabe answer from what he has given us. He still hasn't even answered if the engine was stuck or he just couldn't get the pistons out without a hammer.

 

Piston knurling machines knurl one side at a time useing a back and forth motion I have a Hastings unit and it tells you knurl the nonthrust side. It is not a lathe.

 

Before you pull the crank, get some Plastigauge to check the main bearing clearances - if they are .004" or less, you can reuse the mains. That will save you a $100. Ask around the OC for a good, HONEST machine shop - take the block in and have the bores checked. I think I might have some used pistons that are .030-over, need to go look. If you still have the rod inserts, you can also check them the same. Over .003" on the rods, I would replace for $50 or so. Have the machinist mic the crank, so you can get the correct bearings - STD or .001-UNDER or .002-UNDER ...they could be tricky to find. you can polish the crank yourself.

Carefully remove the lifters - clean each one and mark their location from front to back. If the cam and lifters are not worn bad, they can be reused - BUT, THE LIFTERS MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE SAME LOCATION!!! Replace the fiber cam gear with an ALUMINUM TIMING GEAR SET. The fiber gear is weak at best, was used for quiet operation by the factory.

The head could run into a couple bucks if cracks are found - cleaning and mag should be around $40 or so. Hard seats and Stellite ex. valves aren't needed for a hobby car, but the shop does need to check for poorly installed seats from a previous valve job - had one fall out and break-up with the motor running in the driveway. If the head is GOOD, I would spend the bucks for guide liners over knurling - it just lasts longer. Check the rocker ***embly for excessive wear, bad shafts. I have some extras to help with there...There are four rockers - RH and LH intakes, RH and LH exhausts - try not to mix them up!

Do you have an air compressor? They are a MUST for cleaning parts with an AMFLO SOLVENT SPRAYER. You'll also need a 1/2-drive torque wrench - Harbor Fright seem to be better than Craftsman these days.

I have more info to offer, might be able to help with some used parts. E-mail me at 6-bangertim@cox.net and we can swap phone #'s then.
Lots of good Info in this thread. Good Luck, Tim