I thought id do my first build thread on this forum and hopefully try and get to know some of you guys here firstly my names charlie and living in Victoria Bristish columbia and heres a brief build up of my T coupe i picked up/ built from scratch as most had rotted away or was chopped off by the previous owner??? iv been here for nearly two years now and for the first year i had no project of my own apart from my roadster sitting nearly finished in England still and found myself bored as any Rodder would be! so i started gradually picking up parts as you do for another project at various swap meets and swap and shops, this build may not be everyones taste but Tall Ts dont seem all that common at the moment especially on the Island im living on and iv always wanted one! I originally started this build off with another model T but a roadster that i picked up, The same year as the coupe, Then i was offered this! put very kindly, it was in a pretty rough state when i first picked it up but nothing i couldnt handle, It was hiding a block down the road at our local sandblasters, a guy brought it in years ago and wanted it done as cheaply as possible then abandoned it and its been sitting in the sandblasters storage racks for twos years since (i knew it was there the whole time, keeping my eye on it) so being a friend through my boss he let me have it for what he was into it for materials wise, so i somehow couldnt say no, id always wanted a steel 27 T coupe and now i could have one even though alot of work was to follow, being a project for myself it was worth it and another steel body saved! Im lucky to be able to keep my T at my work so have full access to the shop, its called Jetstream Custom Auto, a Hotrod, Custom, Restoration and paint shop, so im lucky to have access to all the equipment i use day to day during work hours which is nice (ignore the odd looking rear wheel position that was from being setup for the Tbucket and now changed for the coupe body) the body came with most of the important parts, the cowl, rear quarters, decklid and a dash, but not a whole lot else! and for some bizzare reason, whoever owned this T before me hacked off the A and B pillars halfway up just above the body line!??! which doesnt make any sence as even if they wanted to make a roadster out of it theyd surely need the A pillars to mount the windshield! Thankfully though they unbolted the rear and quarter window panels which was a huge relief I otherwise may not have bought it even though it was cheap, It was missing doors though i was lucky enough to find 2 pairs, one fairly good pair and a rough pair for parts and later played a major role in the build, more on that later! And also missing the quarter and rear window panels also, The quarter windows i had to make up as i just couldnt find them any where, online or Ebay, and as far as i know here unobtainable new, the panel below trunk lid had dissintergrated leaving a little strip each side of the trunk for me to use as a template to make a new one, and also the header panel was missing which had to make up. the body was loosely tacked together with some 1"x1" tubing set into what was left of the original subframe you can see what is left after i separated the two main halfs of the body as they weren't in the correct position anyway (Hence my plead for Model T coupe measurements and Dimensions a few months back Thanks Maurice for helping out ) as i had already started building my "New" Tbucket, I already had a Chassis Id made up, Z'd 4 inches in the front (something i wish i hadnt done now but heyho!) and 14" in the back which was always the plan, and alot of the build was already mocked up so was somewhat of a jump start for the coupe as i already had a rolling chassis, I dont have any or many photos of the chassis though as i was working away so hard i forgot to take them theres a triangulated 4 bar set up in the back, i made up for it, its on Air bags just in the rear, and also the radiator i managed to squeeze under the trunk too! I wanted something different and as i said might not be everyones cup of tea but is the look im after, and i apparently like making life hard for myself! here it is with the original Tbucket body set on it as the original plan, though with out motor and axles, Here it is just loosely rested on the rolling chassis with motor and trans excuse the bad photo due to the light, the motor is in fact a Buick 350 and running a Turbo 350 trans, the motor was given to me by a friend and was a known good running strong motor so for now it will do as its only going to be a cruiser and to hopefully run dailey as my run around. The rear axle is a 8" ford out of a 67-68 mustang, the frontend is a stock original forged model A axle thats been dropped, with 37 ford spindles and split A bones, im figuring out the steering setup at the moment (box wise) the plan is to use the same as my other T Firestone deluxe champion whitewalls all round and to leave the lakes headers iv already made, heres a sneak preview of a little later on into the build Thats it for now, hopefully this build is of some interest to some you guys, but this is a few of many photos to come as im quite a way through the build now and getting close to being able to paint it, just that its been the first chance iv had to start posting, im having trouble deciding on the colour choice too, oh and this ones panned to be staying a Tall T !! will update more soon Thanks Charlie
I like T-coupes a lot,always wanted to build one. Looks like a fairly good start. DO NOT PUT RAD IN REAR,it will bite you in more ways then I can write out! Very bad idea,if ya need why, it's likely you will need to find out the hard way,then make up storys how great it did work when it really did not do well{it what ya hear from some others. Just trying save u many prob.!
Very nice job...and looks like you are doing it right... Keep us in he loop.. I am interested in following, as here is what I started out with and where it is now..
Just saw your pictures on "who's building a T". Love the way the car sits. I bought a 27 Coupe body this past summer. Also liking the tall T's as opposed to the radical chopped ones. Radiator in the trunk gives the frt end a great look. Couple questions. Why do you regret z-ing the front frame 4 inches ? And are those Model A front frame rails ? Good luck with your build.
Hey Guys thanks for the interest, im glad i saved it from going for scrap too but as far as i know it wasnt heading there anytime soon, im going to see how it goes with the radiator in the trunk i love the look too, if it gives me grief il end up putting a rad in the front but like it as it is, hdonlyBOB, yours almost looks like how i got mine though alot more solid, Thanks baron, im not into the chopped ones either, they look great Tall and is definitely how im gonna keep it, well i dont so much Z'ing the frame at the front its self its just the way i did it i wish id have done it neater as from the side view it looks a little chunky but is fine, I put some decent welds into it, also yh theyre model A frame rails from the Z / firewall forwards, stock model a xmember been thinking of swaping it out for a dropped flat one though but not sure yet, So I started working my way through all the nessary work that needed doing on the body mainly rust repair first, boths sides along the cowl hood weather strip was a bit holey so ended up just cutting out quite a long high strip and re forming a new double bend to match the original in the cowl in our break, nice having all the tools and equipment eh I cheated a little on some of the patches on the cowl and migged alot of it, to be honest just for quickness, usually i would Tig it! pushing the car in and out of the shop everytime i have to work on it is a pain in the but and something extra i have to do everytime i work on her, there was pretty much the same amount of repair both sides in the same place, there were also alot of small pin holes indicating to me that alot of that located area was a little thin so to save me time continuously burning through with the welder i cut out the area slightly larger than it seemed it needed if that makes sence just to be safe and to actually have something to weld too passenger side, I also lucked out big time as i managed to find just 30 minutes away from home, a mint pair of A pillars, not cut up! two pairs of pretty decent doors, a perfect dash, visor and also a driver side B pillar cover plate as the body was missing this. the passenger side was there, but hacked in half like the rest of the body, luckily the other half im going to have to make is the easier top half he also had alot of the garnish mouldings i needed. this was all at an older friend of mines place, he probably has the biggest stash of old ford parts iv ever seen! I also picked up a pair of free rough doors from a guy i was getting a mint rear window panel from a few more houres up the road, it was also sand blasted which was a bonus The barn is packed floor to ceiling, wall to wall of everything you can imagine from 40 ford backing plate bolts, flathead V8s and bodys, iv know him for quite a while as iv been coming out here for holidays for years too, and brought a few bits and pieces back to England occasionally its usually hard to find decent T parts though on Vancouver Island where i live and you usually have to get stuff shipped in from the States which end up costing a hell of a lot more. I called him on the off chance of him having these parts and he said you know what charlie, i happened to just get them last week so grabbed I them the next day I dismantled the old A pillars from the cowl, iv been spot priming/painting as i go doing fresh metal work as the only downside to having our own projects at work is our boss has this thing where he doesnt allow our personal projects in the shop in shop ours (even if theres space which is annoying) so we have to push it in and out every time we want to work on them unless is a weekend but again has to be out by monday morning, parts after sandblasting and about to give them a fresh prime A pillars on this was all i had left of the panel below the decklid this was the body just loosely placed on the frame while i worked on and tweaked parts of the body, i left the body in two peices as long as i needed to make it easy to lift on and off the frame as i worked on it, also i had to slightly modify the rear of the frame, changing to the coupe body it needed a slightly shorter rear frame as i originally set the Tbucket up as a roadster pickup with an A pickup box I looked around all over online into wether it was worth me buying or making the panel below decklid up, as its an easy piece to make, just alot of shrinking once its all bent up, in the end i decided to make it as it was the best part of a $100 to buy plus shipping on ebay and coming from the states, so it just didnt seem worth buying it for me, it only took a couple of hours to make not a few weeks in the post to recieve lol and with carefull measuring and laying it out onto my flat panel i was making it out of, it turned out perfect first time then just a whole load of shrinking to do Heres the panel i had to make, finished the bending part of it, next alot of shrinking to get the shallow curve the rear of the T body has [/URL] here you can hopefully make out its starting to take shape [/URL] then drilled some slotted holes as the original panel had for adjustment, the holes look bigger in the picture than they actually are for some reason, [/URL] and fitted to the body finally it started shaping up to look like a T again ignore the doors on it here, these were the rough ones i was given free and I used alot of parts from them hinges etc, Then i started looking at tail lights i already had some brand new 32 ford tail lights i had ready for the Tbucket build laying around, looking at how i could mount them, as i love the traditional look of the 50 pontiac tail lights on coupes, if id have known i was building the T coupe early on id have probably ordered the pontiac lights instead but as i had these i thought id do a little mock up in a similar way but with the 32 lights im pretty sure i dont like it like this, but might use them as they should be used just outside the quarters mounted on a bracket but maybe setting the licence plate into the rear panel a little, with a light, The trunks not yet mounted in the photo, the hinges were another thing i was missing but something i now have then i looked at mocking up the lovely Stainless 30/31 model A Headlights i had already picked up ready, again for the tbucket, and stainless 32 headlight stands i actually brought with me from England, I also had the front end on dolly castors for a few months while i was trying to find a decent front end, it eventually came from my buddy 30 minutes away that i got the T doors and other parts from, from his large stash of ford parts This is the grille i actually ended up using and youl later be able to see how much i had to chop it to get the top of the grill lined up with the top of the cowl to look proportionally correct, heres a quick photo of the rear end with triangulated 4 bars and air bag mount set up i made, lots of measuring was done here obviously and it really works perfectly, no binding at all, which iv heard a few people have had problems with some triangulated kits you can buy online, but id imagine that would be form installation error, its only tacked in here, the 4 bars ends I Tig welded on one end with a polybush kit pushed in, and the other end i lathed up some weld in threaded bungs and used Heims joints so one end is fully adjustable,
here was the lower quarter patches i had to do, again the same each side! here its very very roughly "roughed" together still missing the quarter windows, with no subframe still air tank mount/crossmember tacked in place, and tank bolted down Lathing up some weld in threaded bungs for the 4 bars and split bones one finished this was a tie rod end i used for the split bones though, pretty much the same bung however, Here is a photo with the front end installed for the first time and my weld in bungs in the split bones too ready to attach to the frame sides, the body still very roughed together, The front end ready to go and bones bolted to frame its finally starting to look like a Hotrod I picked up an original cheap 34 ford pickup (i think) gas pedal to use on my coupe, from my usual old ford parts guy, started looking into how to mount it as im using and original under cowl mounted T gas tank for now (space issues in such a small car and using air ride) i found out im not going to be able to use the pedal as it was but i still wanted to use it, so i dilled out the dowl through the spoon part and it was just as simple as flipping it over that made it still usable for me Happy days it worked great, then just a nice neat hot plug weld to fuse it back to the original shaft and called it done after a quick lick of paint in this photo the body was still in two separate pieces as you can see in the doors against the rear of the body, but that same weekend i took the photo was when i i joined it together properley for the first time, I actually to make it nice and easy and to help it sit as flat on the frame as possible, got some 3/16 2x4 box section for this and cut it diagonally at opposite corners to make an L section to act as a new subframe for the body to sit together, and yes one hell of alot of cutting it was too, but think its paid off, as it worked out well and should be plenty strong enough, i ended up starting at the front of the cowl, tacked it in place, and pretty much followed the chassis and pinched the subframe where needed to suit the chassis, to where it goes from the narrower part of the cowl to the wider part at the A pillars, then into the straighter section along the door and to the front of the rear wheel arches, heres another over view shot of how it looked at the time, i think the same weekend i was also setting up the front end and petting the castor angle into the split bones, seeing as the angle finder is on the drivers side of the axle as explained i think in the Begining of my post, the front end comprises of mainly a stock forged but dropped model A front axle my buddy did for me in his special jig, model A kingpins, original 37 ford spindles, at the moment its 40 ford hubs abd backing plates wheel cylinders and shoes etc but have a very very nice couple of pairs of the Buick finned drums which im planning on using in my stash of parts, stock but reversed Eye spring i did myself, new but deep dropped magnum steering arms, im ready for plumbing the brakes in now once iv picked up my mustang rear axle wheels cylinder and other brake parts thats it for now maybe some more updates tomorow thanks Charlie
Really nice build. A little too low for my taste but that's it. I love the tall T coupes. I don't see why the rear mounted radiator will be a problem. Many production vehicles have the radiator at the opposite end than the engine as do many off-road rigs. I'm sure there are design details to be mindful of, for example the ability to bleed air bubbles, but I do not understand the warning on why it would not work. Nice work, nice progress, nice boss.
Thanks plym49 thats what makes hotrodding different some like em low some dont, iv had my share of both and just what i fancied for this build, also for a Rod on Air ride its actually not that low and the airs just on the rear too to make the rake/ride adjustable and gives me on board air, it doesnt belly out then its lowered i can still look underneath and get to things if i need too when its bagged out im not too sure on the rear mounted rad either, iv seen lots of great sucess with it too, and a few that have over heated but i liked the overall idea and look it gives my car I also just happened to have the radiator im using in the trunk and it was the perfect size too, thanks for the kind words its always nice to hear feedback about a build, Iv actually had the car running and driving the last few weeks and been driving it in and out of shop but thursday i started stripping her down ready for paint and a few bits to do on the frame, took the motor out for better access on stuff in the frame and the firewall Thanks Charlie
im going fairly traditional in my opinion (apart from Air ride, though they did have it in the 50's) on this build lake headers i also made myself for the Buick, and as said drums all round, if set up well they can produce great stopping power especially for a little T coupe and as far as i know they never had disks in the 50's i could be wrong, but hey if they can stop big and trucks loaded up with 100's of tons of weight on drum brakes i can my little hotrod maybe one day if i feel the need i could upgrade to disks and maybe hide them within the Aluminum Buick drums I already have and planning on using on the car as it is with drums, I also decided as i picked it up cheaply to use a 30 model A stainless grill shell, which i think i ended up chopping 6 or more inches out of and then Tigged it back up, it happened to have a few cracks here and there in it, and one i particularly liked and decided to keep it as a feature in the grille, its tigged back up but i loved the shape it created, it was at the bottom of the grill where it peaks to a point, and the crack made it pointed running downwards like a 33 or 34 grill if that makes any sence? and kind of scoop out forward, so like i say i tigged it back up as a subtle difference, i usually do not like such a late grille shell on a T it never seems to look quite right but somehow i like it on my coupe and is currently working for me, i like however having the radiator in the trunk i have the freedom to pretty much change the grill to anything i feel like at the time if im bored of it, here you hopefully can see the little point i mean and also the modified mounts to the chassis front crossmember i made for it, to bolt the the xmemeber where originally the radiator should bolt down, heres the final look of the grill and another over view of how the whole car is currently looking but theres lots more updates to come still, also this is by no means the final paint im going with at all or the colour, im no even going to go with black as my other T in England is gloss black and everyone does a black T coupe lol apart from you maurice which is great to see, the primer i had on the car to originally protect it, has done me well but having to store it outside most of the time it started to rust through in a few spots so i sanded them back and gave it a quick spray with some rattle cans i had lying around that were spare, to help protect it untill i get the chance to paint it, though im thinking of getting it running and driving and through inspection to get rid of any bugs and problems before painting it properly, one thing i like about the Buick motor is how wide it is, it really fills up the Ts cowl very well almost too well but to me looks right in this car and it is so different, everyone uses a chevy 350 especially here on vancouver island, it seems almost every other hotrod is a 32 with a SBC in it nothing wrong with that but to me thats boring and I like something a little different, and as a bonus as i think i explained earlier in my build thread, this was a known good spare for my buddys 65 buick special he has and hes looking for a house and slowly down sizing ready to move, so let me have this motor and trans and a spare trans for a few hours of my time, so on a tight buget build this was the one for me as said i might one day build a 500 caddy for it as i love those engines too, now funny enough / a huge pain in my a55!! even though I live in north america, i just could NOT find some 26/27 T quarter window, ANYWHERE!! I found a pair on Ebay with quarters, which i didnt need, I just wanted the quarter windows, I messaged him asking if hed split and ship to canada from the States, but long story short he wouldnt and someone local to him bought them, and no matter how many wanted ads i put up on various sites and the amount of phone calls I made turned up nothing apart from one guy up in mainland British columbia, hes an elderly guy, i made a few calls to him asking and he said hes sure he has some but they would be at the front of a 50ft trailer he has he takes to the swap meets full of A and T parts, again long story short after a few months i gave up and havnt heard from him since, I heard he had an accident falling off a roof, but hes fine now, but never got my windows so i had to come up with my own plan, I had a spare pair of very rough doors i got free for my coupe, the bottoms were totally missing but got them from the guy i went to buy my rear window panel from, hes a hotrodder about 3 hours drive north from me and a really great guy and has one of the most awesome home garages iv ever seen, the doors also had a few good parts iv ended up using like the hinges, one drivers door latch and a passenger side window regulator, I started by cutting the door in half just below the body line, which i used to fold over to finish the bottom of the panel off, as in the photo above i cut sectioned and rewelded the inner window moulding shape to achieve the quarter window size i needed, here is it not really yet looking like the window panel i needed, but the right size and needing lifting in the rear part of the window, next i had to piecut and curve the top of the window and the body line to fit the body's shape, I also had to make a flange that bolted down to the body bolt holes in that area which my window panel would later be welded too to make it removable if ever needed, here it is curved to suit the body, it also as well as curving round starts going upwards into the rear window panel body line, same the other side. next I had to fill it in with sheet metal, I made a template for the bolt hole pattern on the rear window panel, this was drilled out to suit into the sheel metal panel, then folded in our break,and rolled slightly in our rollers to the radius of the cars curve here it is tacked in, i think i get so into my work and excited i forget to take some photos along the way of different step, think its a common thing around here lol, like where i folded the edge to bolt to the rear window panel, showing the curve towards the rear of the car, im just missing the rear body moulding from the body line up where whoever butchered my body originally, trying to think of how i can make a couple of peices of moulding to suite it got a few good ideas but any suggestions? here it is all fully welded and the welds dressed up, thats it for now maybe some more updates tonight Thanks Charlie
Hi Charlie. One way to reduce the bulkiness of the frame at the firewall kick up area is just cut the bottom upright back about 4 inches( at the same 45 degree angle), so that the frame remains the same width in the kick up area as the same width as the rails. One cut and box it back up and you'll be good to go, and it will give the frame a more flowing, uniform line. Here is a picture that will maybe easier to see than my explanation (cut on the red line).
Thanks Chevy54man and thanks Baron, your explanation is great and actually something im thinking of doing pretty soon as its bothered me ever since i did it lol, i saw the same thing on another build thread a few years back and on the photo it didnt look too bad but now iv done it i hate it so is something im going to change before painting it, many thanks again Charlie
Il hopefully get some more updating done on my T soon, im off snoboarding this weekend you gotta have a break occasionally otherwise im on this coupe every weekend and nights during the week im currently get it ready for body work and paint in the next few weeks here, but will go through everything iv done so far from where i left off hope y'all have a great weekend Charlie
hope i havnt bored everyone yet thought id do another quick update, next i had to make up the header panel for above the windshield that also the windshield hinge bolts into and supports it, again it was a part i couldnt find anywhere no matter how many adverts online i put or phone calls, and i could buy one on Ebay new but again was another 90 bucks i didnt have and stupidly i think they quoted me 70 bucks to ship it from the states, so to me wasnt worth it and using our break here at work and doing some measurements only took me about an hour to make so way worth the effort as it came out looking great I also bead rolled before folding it as in the original panels, here is one of my coolant pipes bent up and clamped up to the frame, sorry for the bad photo, next it was time to sort the steering! now that it had the front end installed, I basically decided to make my own steering arm for the side steering set up i decided to do, you can buy these from the state but i needed it like today not in a weeks time so made it up myself I started by looking online for the speedway items measurements so i knew i was in the right ball park measuring up and making mine and bent up and threaded to 1/2 - 20 as the original ones are, also my lower steering arms/spindle holes are 1/2-20 thread so thought it wise to match it up then I hole sawed out a piece of 1/2" steel plate to Tig into the end to recieve the tie rod end, the tie rod ends iv been using are from a later Ford F150 they have a 3/4" thread which i know isnt the most traditional method and usually use 11/16 but, that tap size I just cannot get anywhere in canada as far as iv looked so far people think im crazy when i went into a store asking for one, all my hotrod buddys said the same, weve pretty much figured out thats a special order from the states and its expensive at that but i could be wrong, anyway they have the same 7 degree taper as the original ford ones do so was a good find in my view and dont look too horribly big, I also then ended up making a decent gusset for the inside of the steering hoop as i dont like how the speedway items dont have anything in there, also it gave me some freedom to do some more of the "hole theme i have goin on with my car, my seats are some bomber esk style seats which apparently were left over from some coast guard seats, and are full of lightning holes and iv used the theme else where in my build here it is all Tig'ed up ready to go just needs the right ream to finish her up now for the steering side of things i decided to use a VW box a guy down the road had one for sale left over from a project and i have already used one with success in my other T in England, though the T roadster has the different aluminum/ box) and since then iv always liked them for my builds theyre small and compact i ended up grinding the steering arm up all nice and smooth to clean it up and also cut off the extra tierod end nubb that i didnt need, Next I made up a bracket for the box to weld to the frame so the output shaft goes through the big D shape opening just above the frame and bolts to the existing bolt holes where the original bolt holes for the tube clamp on it where, Here you can see the ugly chunk frame Z which im going to fix soon now the body is off the frame for body and paint, this gives a better idea than the write up, here it is with the drag link i made up for it, now i know the general rule of thumb is to try and make it parallel with the bones/radius rods, and the same length but i just couldnt make it work for some reason but i can make it parallel with a little more work which i will do later on, by shortening the steering arm a little, but at least its now steering nice and smoothly with no hard spots throughout the turn. thats another big part of the build sorted, though im going to come back later and add a gusset running downward on the inside of the frame between the box and the main mount to give it abit more strength in the sideways motion, it hardly moves as it is as i made it out of 1/4 plate but its something im going to do, in the same photo you can see my bone mounts also have the 3 hole theme lol next i started looking inside the coupe i had already done alot in there, as the whole thing is framed throughout, and made a seat box frame, just to lift the seats up a little to make it more comfortable and not be sitting on the floor for the sides i made a 3 hole peice both sides, hole sawed and dimpled the holes, these holes are going to have a stainless mesh on the inside at some point and act as a little bit of an air vent for the amp and cd player im gonna hide under there, they just dont look right on show in any Rod!
in the background you can also see id started the trans tunnel too, do to its funny shape it had to make it in a few peices that i then welded all together and ground smooth thats all been seem sealed now and painted to stop it flash rusting, then i looked at the B pillars which i had to make/do something with and to finish off the quarter windows i had already made up, i kind of got lucky with this as when cutting up the door tops up i saved the sides, both ends on both doors ans was able to use these as B posts as they were exactly the right sizw, on the one side, passenger, i already had half the B pillar cover panel, but as the rest of the car it was cut in half from the belt line upwards, so i ended up just grafting the "new" B pillar peice into the original cover panel and welded it all the way around and ground it all smooth, then i could weld the outer skin or the quarter window I had made to it all the way down to finish that side off and again ground smooth to finish on the Drivers side, i had a new (to the car) full original B pillar cover plate as on this side the whole thing was missing! my original plan was to make it up so i could use the whole cover plate and make a top half for the other side to match to make them both removable like the original coupe would have been! but looking at it, from what i have brought the car from to how it is now i thought it didnt really matter if i sadly cut the B cover panel top off and match it to the other side and graft in the new B pillar, window and cover plate, i new i had to make it match either way and this seemed to be the simplest way of doing it, technically this makes the quarter windows now not removable but the chance im going to have to separate them from the body is very slim but still easy enough to do if i ever should need too, then i could make up a bolt in flange at that joint but thats something im hoping not to have to do, while doing this i ended up, with the doors closed ratchet strapping them together on the inside to make sure theyre properly closed and the B pillars are where they should be with the doors shut so the gaps were even when shut which aided me in tacking and welding everything up properly Then I started to make up a semi temporary roof frame, as im going to keep it in there for now getting it on the road as soon as possible and through inspection etc, but im ultimately going to definitely be putting back in an original/new wood roof frame i just love the look of them and im planning on running a removable vynil/canvas roof covering, its going to be the same as an original probably with the old chicken wire, but just that the vynil can snap on and off weather permitting as the frame is right now its sat down lower than stock and at the time i didnt realise that i couldnt use the door window garnish moulding with it set up like this so luckily it was already the plan to get a wooden frame, theyre a little on the pricey side i think but will be worth it so on a bit of a budget it will have to come later like the louvered deck lid skin, im loving its mean looking attitude of a front end, next i stripped out some good 40 ford wheel cylinders for the front end, cleaned them rebuilt them and painted them ready to put in the car, also my other photos are stuck on my phone, got the first proper bit of paint finished and done this week, My carbs im going to be running tri Ford 94 carbs on her, theyre painted root beer candy and look incredible theyve been done in a 3 stage system base, candy then clear coat so not sure how they will hold up with the car being a driver but they look great for now and will see what happens with them, iv been reading that people have been painting motors with the same system and no problems yet so we'll see thats it for tonight maybe some more updates tomorow, but got some stuff to do and sundays a shop day got to crack on with the body work thanks Charlie
Hey Charlie. Looks like your making a lot of progress. Car is looking good. Keep up the good work. You'll be driving it before you know it.
Thanks Baron glad you seem to be liking it so far yes its nearly there everythings been put together and mocked up just a little more fab work thats easier to do off the frame so took it off an now doing body work, paint should be at the shop next week i cant wait it should look very different, kind of a stock model A cream and brown theme, but not in the usual way its my own cream mix, its called white chocolate im using Root Beer Candy from House of kolors for the motor, carbs, Rims and maybe at a later time from the belly line up but not too sure about that bit yet will see how i like it and how it looks all the main body in cream at first Thanks Charlie
Im loving the look of you coupe Baron, it looks in awesome condition lucky to have such a nice example, whats your plans with it have you got a build on it yet? Charlie
Just gathering parts. Plans are similar to yours. I have two projects I am doing first before I get started on it ( my 57 Corvette and than my 32 5W Coupe). I love the looks of the T's built back in the sixties. They were the cars I was dreaming about while sitting in school when I should have been paying attention to school work. This car(like yours) has that look I'm talking about.
Thanks guys but Sakke my grill is a 30 model A grill but sectioned the crap out of it like the look of that T too Baron, thats the style i love aswell 60s T's and im really loving these days unchopped T Coupes, wish id have done my chassis the same as that without the Z in the front, thats how i did my hight back 1915 T roadster which i still have, but my coupe will look fine once iv sorted out the Z and chopped it down a little to make it look less chunky, Thats cool you have a 32 5W theres a few of those up the road from my house here ones just sitting on the dirt outside in his back yard the other is in a barn with a roof that caved in on it and every other kind of T or A car body style (complete cars) you could imagine, too bad theres so many hoarders like this that wont sell anything, he must be in his 70's and say he'll get round to it one day lol, Charlie
Thanks Big foot yes its definitely been a labour of love and taken me probably twice as long to get it to this stage as it would have if it was in alot better condition but it was worth it saving another one, this one was rough, as you could all see, i love the wide white slicks too and im also looking for some gasser spokes as iv always loved the look, if i can find some they might end up on my car too, though slicks are totally illegal it seems here in canada and cops are always out looking for trouble if they cant find it they seem to make it, so im a little worried with my coupe and not having fenders im making some cycle fenders just in case but quickly removable ones, Thanks Charlie
yh actually i think theyre slightly easier with cheater slicks and something im considering, the name of them spokes, are they ET's? theyre on sale in speedway right now if im looking at the right ones, pretty sure i am, not in my budget at the moment though charlie
Thanks for the Link Baron iv always like cheater slicks so might get a pair at some point , my T's body is coming along had a long day on it yesturday and 3 hours after work tonight cowls pretty much ready for slicksand and the rest to follow shortly, im aiming to get a few odd bits epoxy primed and then the whole car in slicksand on the weekend, will do another update again soon Charlie
good luck on your project your build was very interesting hope you get to enjoy your t as much as i do mine
Thanks Derpr30 im getting through the body work very quickly now a bodyshop buddy and i were on it till late last night and so very close to being ready for the first few coats of primer, this will be a driver for sure and plan to drive it everyday, Hopeing to have it out ready for this summer I like the look of your coupe too Thanks Charlie
The Jalopy Journal
