Very nice guys, very nice. Welding is the fun part...something I have to look forward to....then hundreds of hours shaping, hammering, bondo-ing and sanding for primer and paint I really haven't come accross any '28-'29 hoods lately, but if - do...will let you know. If you happen to stumble across a pair...keep me in mind (looking for a decent set of tops too) Thanks Rich, but I'm just happy to supply them when they might be helpful or needed. ...don't think I have enough to make a thread anyway.
Clayton, That 26 coupe of your friends in the photoshoped pic wouldn't happen to belong to the same friend that we shipped some aprons and fenders to a few months ago would it it looks to be nice coupe. CBB
That was you!? small world! It is infact the very same car. Those pics were taken about 5 years ago when we were moving it into the loft.
Mid week update (ok it's the end of the week...but we did the work mid week). Since we're not running fenders, or aprons we have all these holes in the body. Model T's leak enough without extra help. So We're going to close them all. The Holes So first you mix up a big batch of bondo.... not on this old girl... We knocked out some sheet metal plugs. And welded them into place. Found a spot or two of rust here too. About the size of a 50 cent piece it got cut out and a patch welded in place as well. I also spent some quality time with some body hammers and dollies on the rear panel. (you remember the one we abused with the welder that last time). It doesn't photograph as nice but 80% of the dents are knocked out of the top section. Still need to go back through and smooth out the hammer marks but I'm really happy with it. This was the first time I've ever used a body hammer and dollies. I watched a youtube video and read some articles on it... figured I'd give it a try. A bodyman I'm not, but it's a heck of a lot better then 1 1/5" of bondo I'm going to try and work out the hammer marks and get it as close as I can but I'm pretty sure there will be some filler in this panel ... I can live with 1/32"-1/16" but no more! If you have some tips or tricks please let me know...I'm guessing here. CBB
Very nice work guys! Yours might be a bit more "water tight" then mine...especially with those fancy doors and "roll up windows" of yours On mine...it comes in everywhere.
Over the weekend we got some work done....Not a lot of Photo friendly stuff but here we go. I spent several hours sanding down the rear half of the passenger side of the car. At this point I think 3/7th of the car is sanded down. We also dug all of the assorted parts out of their hidey holes for inspection and paint prep. We started with a pile like this. and after a couple hours and a broken dream we have a pile like this We also pulled out the sun shade / visor and It looks like someone built part of it out of tin (roof flashing?) at some point in the last 86 years. But We're not 100% sure this is not what it should like then it gets covered in leather / roof covering material. Any thoughts? I also spent a few more hours bumping the dents out of the rear panel... but that doesn't photo well. We also found a couple more rust holes behind both doors that will need to get cut out and patched. Hopefully our welding has improved and this will not hurt so much Let us know what you think. CBB
Here's another lite midweek update. Jim Spent some time behind the sander this week. He got the Driver's side rear half cleaned up and ready for a little body work and paint. Behind both the doors we found some rust. It had to come out! SPARKS!!! We were left with these. So we have more welding in our future. Hopefully the warping will not be as bad this time.... maybe we should pay the welders a little better After some more research it looks like we have the correct Sun Visor frame but it has a "farm built" sheet metal cover not the fabric cover it should have had. Now do we keep the tin cover or go back to fabric that will match the roof. We have a vision for the roof ... vinyl is not in the cards. We'll get into that later after the paint dries As always let us know what you think... Hopefully this time your comments will not "disappear". Thanks, Bruce
We both had somethings get in the way over the weekend so there were only a few hours spent in the garage. But we tried to make the most of them. Jim Started on the Doors. These were fun because there are several coats of paint on them. Why there the only things with Red paint on them is a mystery. But with a little work and the trusty DA Jim was able to get it all off. The result at the end. I worked on the drivers side patch. By some miracle I didn't warp the body this time. Tried a new method of lots of little tack welds instead of trying 1/4" welds this time. That's where we were at when we ran out of time. Hopefully through the week we'll get a night or two to work on it and get things closer to paint in time ! Comment away, Thanks, CBB
Those doors are AMAZING! Doesn't look like there is a speck of rust anywhere on them! Great find! Nice work on the body patch...a little bit of grinding and finessing and you won't even be able to find that patch
The brown smears on the doors is really odd. It was way down under the primer and it's 100% smooth doesn't feel like rust. It's like the metal was stained when they put it in the press to form the skins. Even the patterns it forms looks like it's been pressed. We've got one dent in that door that needs bumped out. but I'm not sure we're going to sand all the brown off. My just marine clean, ready prep and paint with por-15, prime and top coat black. As for the patch thanks for the complement. Lets hope I don't slip with the grinder CBB
Odd for sure...wonder what the story is. Those sandpaper, flap-style discs for your angle grinder are a bit less aggressive then a good ol' fashion grinding wheel and are available in 60, 80, 120 and 160 grit that I have seen. Used them allot during my build.....did nice work. ...might be a more gentle and productive solution.
You fellows are doing a good job. Going to be a neat little T. Be careful with the grinder on that patch panel....you could still warp it with too much heat. (Just a reminder). I'm anxious to see more of the build.
Quite possible the stains were caused by "Drawing Oil", which was used for lubrication on stampings and pressings. My guess. Impressive work! Davo.
Clayton..one of those flapper wheels lives one of the grinders they are great. I'm trying to not over heat the weld while grinding the welds down. Don't let the metal discolor and take breaks... If you can't put your hand on it it's too hot. Drawing oil sounds good.
We did more sanding last evening and Bruce patched the passenger side panel. His phone died so we will have to post pictures later today. We are a week off of painting. Since we are both completely inexperienced we could use all the tips and tricks you can throw at us....HELP!
I had to work yesterday, then Sanded some more so here are the pics for the last couple of days. On Wednesday night Jim got the paint sanded off the doors, the rear window metal, and the windshield frame. While he was working on all that I ground down the welds on the Driver side body patch. I also got the patch welded on the passenger side. We also had to get the rusted windshield hinge apart. The Windshield hinge is in the bottom of this picture. As you can see it's very rusted about 75% of it is rusted through. It's not budging! After a good soaking with some Aero Kroil.... and about 30mins just letting it set. You get this... This is the rust out hinge part. the upper windshield bracket was still solid. With a new aluminum hinge (harder to find then most would think!) You end up with a setup like this. Kroil is Great!! I can't say enough about this product. We've got cans of "Other" penetrating Oils in the shop.... They don't work near as well on parts that are really corroded! If you have a rust bucket or frozen bolts give it a try. http://www.kanolabs.com/ (not a paid endorsement..just like the product!) That's where we called it a night on Wednesday. Thursday night Jim knocked out the trunk lid and light buckets. As well as the Front quarters of the body. I finished up the passenger side patch. And fought some pin holes in the Driverside wheel well.... Pin holes SUCK! Now we have a question for all of you worth 500 points. What part of a Model T is in the picture Below? As Jim Stated before... We've never painted before. I've done a lot of work with Rattle cans and a little airbrush work. But never sprayed on a car. Tips tricks and No, No's are requested..... CBB
Nice work guys! You guys really lucked out...that coupe is pretty solid. It it a native Ohio car? Kroil is great, but Chris and I found a home made formula (here on the H.A.M.B. acctually) that works even better. A 50\50 mix of Acetone and either ATF or Marval Mystery Oil. This stuff has something in the neigborhood of twice the breaking power and penitration of any of the major store brands. I have freed up and broken loose some things with that mix I NEVER thought I would get apart without heat or cutting. Just my $.02 for the day
Try, where ever possible, not to hold the spraygun over any panels that you are spraying; one accidental drip will really tick you off! Dragging the air hose over the job is nearly as funny. Do some practice swipes before the real thing. Take your time. Make sure that you spray in the correct temperature. Good luck, and remember, most people can produce an acceptable job; an excellent finish comes from a Master. One of the most important parts of the job is cleaning the gun afterwards. It should look like it has never been used!!! I have never been a serious painter; these are just some random thoughts that entered my ancient skull as I sit here, sleepless, at 4am., wishing that I could be involved once more. Davo.
Hello again everyone, Disappointment has struck Lizzy! The weather in Ohio has given us crap so the painting has been put on hold. Transporting the body 25 mi. in bad weather does not seem like a great idea. Also there was trouble keeping the place we were painting in a good temperature with proper ventilation and the outside temperatures in the low teens it did not help. My guess is that it will be done in a few weeks. If this is our biggest disappointment of the project that would be great. On the bright side, we did spend more time on the body work and will probably be better for it. Bruce has some updated pictures and we will post them soon. I hope you all had great holidays. Jim
It's good not having to rush the body work. Are you going to sandblast the sheet metal to remove the brown stains before paint?
Just read this thread tonight, you guys have done a great job .well since nobody said anything about etching primer or filler primer block sanding and primer and block sanding and primer then paint you'll have some practice . hope i didn't bust any bubbles . A good local paint supply store can be a good source for questions like what size tip for the gun and the type of paint your going to use , filer primer will take a different tip than your paint will hopefully i wasted my time and you know all this . I know a little of nothing about everything jack
i would love a tall T like yours, I'm very jealous!! Love the build and thnk you for taking ght etime to post it. ref spraying, I always run the spray gun hose around my back and over my shoulder, this keeps it from accidentaly hitting what I'm painting. also, I always have an old table handy to stand on for doing the high/wide stuff! last one, I always mix bondo on a bathroom tile, not an old piece of cardboard. If I'm teaching you to suck eggs, sorry! keep up the good work!
Guys Thanks for the good advise. Over the holidays we picked up a primer gun (1.8mm tip) and we have finish guns. So we should be good on that front. Bondo was mixed on a spare piece of sheet metal (we seem to have a fair bit of this around the shop). The brown Stains on the door come off with 80 grit sand paper. Which is good as we have to go over the whole car with 80 before painting starts. We used 30 -40 Grit to remove the old paint, The 80 grit pass will smooth some of the heavy scratches from the paint removal process. Here is the consolidated pictorial version of what we have done the last few weeks. At one point in the past someone "popped" the trunk lock with a screw driver. and ruined the sheet metal around the lock. We filled this area with new metal. and Re-drilled the lock keyhole. First we used a "roto-broach" to create a nice round hole. Then hand filed the bottom Slot of the keyhole. After that we wanted to test the fit and alignment of the Trunk lid and rear window frame. Once things were bolted in we found that everything fit well. We set off to fill the low spots in the rear end. Bondo was applied. Bondo was sanded. Bondo Fell right off the Rear!! It blew off when we used the air blow gun to clean the bondo dust off. We prepped the area by roughing with 30 Grit sand paper, wiping the dust off, then wiping it down with lacquer thinner. This was the third batch that we mixed from the can. The other two batches were applied on the same panel... They stuck fine. We're guessing that this batch was short hardener and we didn't leave it sit long enough for the temp of the shop. All the bad Bondo was scraped off the panel. the panel was re-prepped and Bondo was reapplied. We then left it sit for 24 hours....over kill but the shop isn't heated well. We didn't have anymore issues when we started using these procedures. I was also able to bump the dents out of the the Passenger door, so we will not need to add any filler here now. Just sand the rest of the door down with 80 Grit and paint. As always let us know what you think or if you see anything really wrong! CBB
The surface temp. of the sheet metal may have been the culprit of the bondo falling off. It doesn't have to be super warm but it can't be too cold either. Also I wouldn't worry too much about wiping the substrate down with lacquer thinner. Just a fresh sand and blow and wipe clean. Nice build. I really like what you guys are doing.
Clayton, We picked the car up in Altoona, Pennsylvania. So as far as we know it is not native to Ohio. This coupe had to have spent a large part of it's life in barns and garages for it to be in this good of shape now. I have heard of the 50/50 acetone atf before just never tried it. We are further along need to get some new pics. Weather looks good for this weekend if everything else falls into place we should have color back on the old girl soon. CBB
Quick up date.... The Car made it to the "booth" tonight. We had to stop at a car wash and rinse off some road grime and maybe a little road salt from the 25 mile trip. Right now the metal is in the warm drying off. First thing Saturday morning we start the degrease and prep for the "Por-15" under coat and primer. If all goes well color will go on Sunday.... Wish us luck! CBB
The Jalopy Journal
