Cool build, nice to see these little details used. Can anybody advise me of the correct way to adjust these rod ends? I've retained them on my RPU and I'm not sure how much tension to put on the screwed in part before slipping the split pin in.
Morrisman, my Ford f1 manual says to tighten the cup and spring against the ball until it stops, then back it off until the slot lines up with the hole for the cotter pin. I greased the bejesus out of the cups and ball, then followed this procedure. Seems to be working fine. Hope this helps a bit.
Thanks for the info. When you say tighten until it 'stops', is that when it touches, or cranked down as far as it will possibly go? I screwed mine until they touched then in until the holes lined up. But you can see it move when I turn the steering etc. I feel it should be tighter. The screw is pretty much flush with the end of the housing.
I cranked it down as far as it would possibly go, that's how I understood it should be. Seems right to me.
You guys useing the steel or newer teflon seat for he ball? I just wonder if it makes any difference when tightening.
Steel seat, have not seen the teflon part. Even with the steel and grease, tightened all the way down then backed off, the action is still fairly smooth although not floppy and loose if that makes sense.
I have been trying to find some info on that joint,My 35&37 Willys have them on the drag links.First you must check that the ball is still round as they do wear and it has to to tight enough so the spring cant compress and thet the ball jump out under load.Hope this my help you, cheers,JW
H.I. , sorry to use you thread .I did a search and on a Model A rod end the spring should be compressed 25%.JW
Compressed 25% does not sound like enough to me. Following the procedure in the manual might get you 75% COMPRESSED and 25% left over. The parts need some room to move. We will be using the procedure in the book, thanks pineapple.
Thanks guys. We got the new driveshaft built and the torque tube back in the other night. Lots of machine shop pics to come... stay tuned
When we left off last, we had shortened the torque tube. Now on to building the drive shaft. We did a lot of survey work, then chopped the original shaft. Put it in the lathe to clean it up for the press fit: The raw material for the lugs to fit the shaft to the new tubing:
Thanks a million to my friend pineapple. None of this would have happened without him. He finished up the other end, pressed it on and welded everything up during the week. Then he brought everything over and we installed it the other night. He even drilled an tapped it for a nice zerk
We had to pull the motor and get the rear aligned. It was a bit tricky to get this installed, but it fit perfect. More thanks to pineapple.
So that's where we are right now. Still have a long way to go. Thanks to Pineapple, LSR2909 and Zombie Lips for all the help. More pics as we progress. Probably move on to the front end next week.
Yeah, um, you don't seem to be struggling through this at all. And if you think the internet makes it look easy you should watch that TV show with Chip Foose where they build a whole car in AN HOUR!!! Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Just got onto this build. A great traditional hot rod and very interesting as so much of the stuff you are doing is not "by the book" . Really enjoying watching this progress.
Tonight I tackled a problem that's been bothering me for a while. I could not decide what to do for the front wishbone mounts. I finally decided to make them from scratch from half inch plate and was all ready to start carving them out when I stumbled upon some stuff in the JAWA pile. I'm really glad I don't throw anything away, ever.