Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

I like it!!

 

Yeah this looks like a great build. Glad you went with the 32 style rails.

 

I have an old set of 32 rails. I'm not sure if I'll be able to make them work under the '27 T Coupe body or not. Meybe I should make the frame like you did.

 

Great build! Keep us posted. I've been thinking a 'T' roadster, probably on deuce rails, needs to be my next build.

 

Looks great, and I love the rails. Can't wait to see more.

 

I like it. Subscribed.

 

Prolly lots o' folks wondering how you did the reveals. Care to share? (Nice looking job.)

 

Cool idea.I started out with a roadster cowl and three rear bottom pieces of a two door sedan.Wanted a little bigger than T bucket interior.Got parts off ebay.

Wanted to do a modified type car but since this was my first ground up,it just kind of morphed into what you see in pics.

Your work is top notch !! Keep pictures coming.

 

More pics of roadster tub Fedcospeed

 

Those frame rails look great! Good stuff for sure.

 

The trouble with 32 rails is they curve and the T body is relatively flat. It was simpler ( He smiles as he says this now that the job is done ! ) to make my own.

Thanks
I used an idea that SamIyam used to do the job. I cut the pattern in for the reveal using a zip blade and a metal blade on my jigsaw for the curve. Squeezed the side in then bent the bottom in.

There is a printable full sized pattern on here for the 32 reveal, I used that.
You can also find Sams thread if you search 32 style rails.


Once that's done you can weld up the cut-weld seam and grind. A little heat with the torch was required in places as the cut 1/8" thick side of the tube wants to collapse rather than bend downwards along the reveals curve where it curves upwards across the rail. On the back ends too where it goes up the rail slightly.


The main problem I encountered was warpage from welding. I have been a welder all my life and even using every warpage eliminating trick I know the rails still came out warped.

I had to scrap one side and start over because it twisted.

I used 2"x6"x 1/8", and the cutting with a zip blade to taper the rails and then doing the reveal made the rails wander all over the place even using conservative welding techniques- short welds and jumping around.

The rails were curved in the opposite direction I needed after doing the reveals due to all the welding on one side of the rail.

As well the front of the rails pulled downwards due to cutting the taper and re-welding as all the welding happens along the bottom corners of the rails.

The only way to get everything where I needed it in terms of the sideways contour for the body ,straightness etc., was a lot of slicing with a zip blade, slight tweaking and re-welding-grinding. Frustrating, time consuming and fun at the same time !!

Took a lot of work but was worth it as I think it looks good. I appreciate all the positive comments.

The main problem I see is that SamIyam mentioned the warpage problem only in passing, and has never updated his thread showing the actual application of the rails he made in his thread.

Thanks and I will keep going on the build as I have time-funds.

 

Here's the pics I promised.

 

That is amazing. Yes, your setup is very similar to what I am doing. I hadn't seen it done before the XL 27 Shadow Rods setup.

I think it will work very well and like the look of the axle up front with no spring etc showing.

How far back from the axle are your spring perches ?

 

They are 3 1/4 inches center of axle bolt (can't call it the perch anymore) to the center of the perch. This put the perch just behind where the forging extends into the hollow tube. I drilled the tube through both sides at the matching angle that the 'bones meet the frame to keep the perches in line with the spring. I cut a groove around the shank of the perch where it met the outside of the 'bone for weld penetrration and after it was welded solid I cut off the extra.

 

Looking at your considerable skills, you probably didn't need the extra explination but I want to be helpful. With that same thought, I'll tell you that the bolts through the axle are 5/8 and the holes in the axle are 11/16. I sleeved the axle to 5/8 and used rod end cone spacers (speedway p/n 546-4110) to match the taper in the ends of the 'bones.

 

Thanks for the dimensions and explanation.

I am actually going to fabricate my own axle holders (batwings or whatever you call them) actually have them built already.

I'm also going to fabricate my own wishbones, a tubular sort of arrangement. I will be using flat stock ,a cold rolled stock that is over 1/8" and less than 3/16" thick which I will bend to the shape I want.

I'll post pics when I build them.

Thanks for the compilment.

 

The way you did the back of the tub looks really good and I also like the hi-boy look of the frame. it's better than channeling it, now you'll have more room inside.

 

Another update, here are a few shots of the initial setup of the front suspension.

I fabricated the axle batwings and they use 3/4" bolts to hold the axle. The solid steel section will be drilled out to 3/4" for the spring perches where you see the 1/4" pilot holes.

The front spring perch bolts will be 3/4" and the lower front shock mount will be right on top of the front perch just inside the bone.

This will be done as I fab the rest of the bones which will be done with bent metal done in half shells and welded. May put some tubing through them as a sort of lightening hole look.

Will post more pics as progress is made.

 

Just a bump, new pictures posted last night !

 

I'm impressed, but then I empress easily. Will be looking forward to what the bones look like.

 

Another update, I built the body mounts today, the rears are my own and the fronts are the stock T mounts and location.

I used 4 hockey pucks and cut them down to 2 1/4" diameter with my hole saw.

Drilled them out to 1/2" and used 4 - 1/2" bolts to secure the body.

The hockey pucks will make perfect body mounts for the little bucket. And they were $1.50 each

The rear mounts are sitting on a 1/8" metal circle I also cut to 2 1/4" and welded on top of my frame gusset tube ( a 1/2" nut welded into tube first ) in the back corner of the tub.

The front mounts are just glued on with the mig for now, when I pull the body later the welds will all be ground and re-welded nice and pretty with the TIG.

I'll also post a couple pictures of the bent 1/2 shells for the front bones.

Larry.

 

^ New pics from last night ^

 

Looks to me like well thought out, solid construction. Nice job.

 

nice project

 

Thanks guys

 

Well, today I had the new rubber mounted

I went with what was readily available here locally and I think they will look and perform good.

BFG Radial T/A 155/80-15 front on 15x5 Wheel Vintiques Smoothies, and 255/70-15 rear on WV 15x8.

I have 41 Ford caps and smooth trim rings for them.

So now I have rolling stock !!

 

Blue - Looks like you have some skills! Very nice work. Please keep us posted.

 

Hi Larry

I really enjoy watching your build excellent work!

What thickness are your 'bone shells'?

Thank you

Mario

 

Thanks Mario. The shells I had bent for the bones are cold rolled 1/8" sheet. Since the material is cold rolled it is nice and smooth and clean. Almost looks like stainless !

They are just a shade (few thousandths) over 1/8" as cold rolled sometimes is.
(Actually the material is 9/64” thick and is very close to being considered 9 gauge.)

I have the bones pretty much built, just sorting out mounting the front end ,spring perches etc.

I'll have some update pictures to post in the near future.

Larry

 

Thanks Larry.

Looking forward to the update pics...

Mario