Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

That looks very sharp, a glimpse of whats to come............cool!!!!! JW

 

Looks great, nice detail work & interesting components!

 

Wow that was exactly my very first USED and abused Tri-power set up way back in 1965. But it looked one hell of a lot worse than your beauty.

 

I hear ya. You have a vision and your going to make it happen.

 

Front brakes have been ordered. The exchange on the dollar really hurts but what the heck .
No one said that this project would be cheap

 

Too bad Canada doesn't make hot rod parts, I'd be buying everything I could!

 

Check here. maybe he'd deliver to Bonneville.
http://candyshotrodsupply.blogspot.com

 

Here is their website rather than a blog link.
http://www.candyshotrodsupply.com/
They are a builder shop, not a parts supplier. You should check out the website to see some of their outstanding work including Jeff Norwell's 32 5 window.
Very impressive work for a small shop.
And, take note of the fact that the shop is in Ontario.
That's Ontario Canada, not California.

 

Built some stands to put the RPU up at a better height for working, 12" high.
Also got word that I should have my MT Products Lincoln front drum brakes in about a week.
Larry.

 

Looking good Larry, top job as usual. JW

 

Like those stands.

 

Got out to the garage and took the top off and stowed it away.
I set the tri power on the mock-up engine and started to locate the gas pedal.
I had bought one of the chromed spoon pedals that Kelly's hot rods sells here on the Hamb and now that I have it mounted, I can tell that I am going to have to do some slicing and dicing to make it work.
What else is new ?
I'll make it work and just Tig weld the modifications with stainless. That will discolor the chrome the least and if it is a problem I'll blast the pedal arm and paint it black.
The spoon will still be chrome.
I'm also making the link to the carbs mechanical with a rod, no throttle cable here
Larry
Pictures eventually

 

Nice work Larry. Your progress feedback always gives me ideas.

 

The gas pedal is a piece of junk, and will not work. I debated building my own, then decided to order up a good quality one from So Cal speed shop which will fit and work properly.

 

I had a problem with mine, I just couldn't get the cable to be where I needed it with the peddle where my foot was so I pulled it apart and reversed the bits, not 100% ideal but it worked. JW

 

Now those drums fit the bill!!!!!!!

 

Yes, they are nice aren't they.

 

They are nice, if you decide you don't wont them.............can I have them? JW

 

Won't happen

 

When I built my steering column I used 2.5" exhaust tubing for the bottom section and had it terminate at the floor where a u- joint passes through the firewall to connect to the steering box.
This left the u -joint exposed and the bottom of the column open to wind and water.
So, to enclose the u-joint and close off the column I fabricated a stub with an end plate and a hole for the steering box spline.
It had to have an access hole to get to the u-joint set screw.
So I added that and made a cover for it. ( There is also a drain hole in the bottom so if any water gets in it will drain out.)
I removed the steering column and welded the stub in place. When the steering column is bolted back in place it is now sealed and finished.
A small detail, but needed. Larry

 

Looks better with the new cover.

 

I just got 2 boxes full of brakes brought up to me by K13 from the shipping depot in Montana.
Awesome. Thanks Ian.
I'll open them up and will find my new MT products Lincoln drum brakes.
Goodbye front discs

 

These brakes are things of beauty. Wow.

 

WOW!

 

My Dad and I are dealers for MT. They are very good products but there's a few things you need to be aware of because they aren't totally ready to use out of the box.

1) The hubs and drums need to be bolted together with nuts and flat washers on all 5 studs, torqued evenly then lightly machined on a brake lathe to true the shoe surfaces to the centerline of the hubs. I find that it typically takes a .010" cut to accomplish this which will result in the drums being .020" oversize. Once you have done this and BEFORE the hubs and drums are taken back apart you need to mark them Left and Right then make indexing marks so that the drums are always mounted to the same hub and in the same position. Every pair of hubs and drums that are sold through our shop get true'd and indexed. I have never found a pair that don't require this.

2) The brake shoes will need to be arch-ground to exactly match the diameter of the shoe surface on the drum. Even as the drums come out of the box before truing the shoes are rarely a perfect fit. Arch grinding is essential as it ensures that the full length of the shoes are contacting the drums.

 

They look great Larry!

 

They really do

 

Boy, do they!

 

I posted my response to this over on my other thread. Not necessary and won't be happening.
Got the word right from the source.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/traditional-style-front-drum-brakes.1002189/page-2

 

Spent some time and installed the gas pedal I got from So-Cal.
Worked out pretty well. I didn't want to go with a throttle cable so I fabbed up a 3/16" diameter stainless steel throttle rod using a studded rod end for the throttle pedal end and a spring pin clevis on the center carb linkage arm.
Then I built a stainless steel bracket off the front carb for a double throttle return spring to supplement the throttle shaft spring on the center Stromberg.
The firewall "boot" is an old rubber bellows type thing off of an old Ford M/C.
It works pretty well and the pedal is in a very comfortable foot position.
Larry