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Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. TerrytheK
    Joined: Sep 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,431

    TerrytheK
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    He made them. See post # 1435 in this thread!
    @Blue One - I think you better go into production on those babies!
     
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  2. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I could do that, I’m not sure anyone would want to pay the price.
    3/16” steel plate isn’t dirt cheap but it’s really suited to these stands.
    They stack up in a nice compact pile and aren’t really heavy but they are heavy enough to make shipping an issue.

    Some guys who really like them wouldn’t order them unless they could get them for what they would pay for them someplace like Harbor Freight , Northern Tool or Princess Auto. :D
     
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  3. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,537

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    My suggestion is for you to sell the plans with a cut list. That'll separate the doers from the tire kickers. If a guy can't make these himself, he could take the plans to a local fabricator, get a quote and have them made. My guess is $100 ea. U.S.
     
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  4. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 6,328

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Willy Nilly is doing a better job than me. :eek:
     
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  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Since I have the intake manifold off for refinishing and other stuff I’ll explain later I decided to relocate the vacuum modulators vacuum source.

    I had it hooked in directly across from the PCV sharing the same vacuum source.

    I wasn’t sure it was working properly and I’ve been told that the C4 will work better with the modulator on a separate manifold vacuum source.

    So I did a little relocation of the 1/4” hardline I installed and routed it into the rear vacuum port on the Edelbrock 573.

    Now it’s all hardline except about 3” of vacuum hose at the modulator.

    I had to remove my ignition coil to get a little bit of work room.
    Changing something that you installed before the body went on is a challenge :D

    3C7E2FD0-6C77-4395-A703-67F563CB16D1.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2020
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  6. Joe Coughlin
    Joined: Jun 20, 2016
    Posts: 104

    Joe Coughlin
    Member

    The truck looks great. I started reading the thread from the beginning and the truck is a true work of art. Do you ever get to any of the car shows around Alberta?
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2020
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  7. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks
    Since I just got it on the road this spring, not this year with pretty much all official scheduled events canceled.
    I did get out to a couple of local informal cruises.
    I also managed to haul it out to Vancouver island to take my father for a ride and while I was there attended a cruise in Nanaimo. :cool:
     
  8. Joe Coughlin
    Joined: Jun 20, 2016
    Posts: 104

    Joe Coughlin
    Member

    Yeah it’s been a rough year for car shows, hopefully there are a lot more next year. I’m down in Calgary so hopefully I’ll see you at one and be able to see the truck in person


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
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  9. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    You guys might remember my post on valve adjustment and changing over to the lock nut style valve adjusters because some of the valves would quickly get out of adjustment and noisy.

    So in doing the final adjustment on the drivers side I noticed something that caused some concern. :(

    The exhaust valve on #7 was deflecting off to the side approximately 1/4 “ in the up and down travel as I bumped the engine for valve adjustment :eek:

    I immediately called Tim Mcmaster and shot him a quick little video.
    He was as mystified as I was as to the cause with less than 700 miles on the engine.

    He told me to send the heads to him and that he would go through them and get them back to me.

    So I pulled it apart and boxed up the heads to ship to Hanford Auto.

    Once they arrived Tim called me and said that the guide for that exhaust valve was totally worn out to where you could almost get 2 valves in there. :confused: Really strange.

    He went through the heads cleaned them up and replaced the valve guide and faced all the valves and checked everything out and also installed new valve retainers that have a small rotating cap on top that give the rockers better clearance from the top of the spring as they move.

    He then boxed them up and sent them back to me with gaskets for heads and intake.

    All it cost me was the shipping to get them to California.

    Getting them back in better than new condition was really :cool::)

    All I can say is wow. Thanks so much for your help and support Tim.



    Larry

    AA778EEC-466B-49DB-8737-AFAF50A246DF.jpeg 4392E931-29FE-4C03-BEEA-4350D0315E2E.jpeg
     
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  10. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,639

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Sorry you had problems with the heads soon after getting on the road. Tim must be a stand up guy. Hope that is the end of your engine problems.

    Seems like these project cars provide us with continuous entertainment even after we get them on road. Thanks for sharing all aspects of your build including successes and challenges.
     
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  11. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks, success and challenges is a good way to put it.
    It’s fun too.
    There’s more to report.
     
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  12. Well? The suspense is killing me!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  13. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Since I had the heads off it was a good opportunity to address my fuel supply issues.

    As I posted previously that included the fuel shutoff solenoid valve addition and then it was time to address the paint damage on the carbs and the fuel stains on the intake manifold.

    I contacted Clive at Stromberg and sent pictures.

    He knew immediately what the issue was because back when I had ordered the carbs they had just started to offer custom finishing and had been having the paint work done out of house.

    As a result the paint wasn’t a properly done fuel proof finish.

    He said that they would build me a new set of carbs and then I could ship my old ones to Max in Utah for parts.

    Clive took the time to paint some parts and soak them in gasoline to test and prove the process and finish durability.

    During the process of building my new carbs he also installed # 43 jets and #69 power valves to take care of a rich running condition.

    Once I got them I installed them on my manifold which I had stripped and ceramic coated.
    I also welded up the holes for the exhaust crossover before refinishing.
    That also gave me the opportunity to have the fuel log mount and the manifold hold downs powder coated.

    The addition of 1/4” phenolic spacers that I ordered from Max also required me to make new fuel lines from the fuel log to the carbs.

    One more addition was the Stromberg choke lock out pins on the end carbs.

    So, once again outstanding service and support from Clive and uncle Max at Stromberg.
    It’s great to have such good people to deal with.
    Once again the only cost to me was shipping of my old carbs to Max in Utah along with the purchase price of the phenolic spacers, longer studs and the choke lockout pins. :cool:


    77A7149C-C6E3-4825-89DA-9760D54EDA68.jpeg CD9B2392-4AAE-4DAB-93F6-A66D0E86C615.jpeg BF543DDD-2E80-4DA2-A198-8373FD433653.jpeg 63FD2A1F-8107-484E-92B8-366FEB6C0DCF.jpeg 0FEB643C-921B-4121-8948-6872FB66FF90.jpeg 47886609-BE4B-4BE8-9356-AEECA511F2A4.jpeg 146F4D05-1D00-47F9-BEB7-F621DED7924D.jpeg ADCAB068-A6A6-403E-BA6D-C936D8305EC5.jpeg B375C287-F84F-4152-AF30-30C3EB124B16.jpeg F2BE220C-9770-4CB7-A39D-75E4D35AEE28.jpeg C8716873-A402-4E43-B196-5A3A6B684801.jpeg 2C0A0DCF-F07E-442F-A727-55C710616A50.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
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  14. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    A few more pictures. :cool:
    I also relocated the fuel pressure gauge to the inlet side of the fuel log.

    BD4B4C74-AB8B-46C7-B227-C41E2D9D854A.jpeg 67B1E128-E01E-4D90-A3CB-A1BBCBCDB60A.jpeg 673DEF56-2518-4393-87B2-16A698D80753.jpeg
     
  15. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,639

    The 39 guy
    Member

  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    But wait there’s more :D

    Remember that Finned aluminum transmission pan I cut down to stock depth and installed ?

    Well there was always a tiny drop or two of transmission fluid on the bottom of the fins.

    I’d wipe it down and try figuring out where it came from.

    Finally I thought it had to be the pan.

    So I drained it and blasted it clean and then I did what I should have done to begin with :oops:

    When I modified it I neglected to leak test it.
    I thought I welded it with the TIG inside and out, what could go wrong ? :D

    I bolted it to a piece of 3/4” thick plate and pressured it up.
    Sure enough one corner had tiny almost microscopic pinholes through it.

    Grinding into it I discovered a mess of holes and garbage in the original casting that I chased around for a couple of hours before I was able to get it cleaned out to pure clean aluminum so it sealed up.

    In the end the porous corner turned into a big gaping hole that was completely replaced with clean Tig welded aluminum!

    Then a final pressure test up to 30 psi and a snoop liquid leak test and it was good to go :cool:

    Instead of the spray can this time I dropped it off at the powder coating shop and it turned out really nice.

    15A0E560-477D-4DFD-B48A-3E14BB1D9CC7.jpeg 135D1920-E463-4DC8-A309-AC814E463934.jpeg 61673BDA-6D8A-46A8-9E83-4D3A08B57E69.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2020
  17. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    She’s slowly coming back together.
    Taking my time and enjoying the process.
    I made a new fuel line from the fuel pressure regulator to the inlet of the fuel log to fit the change of where the fuel pressure gauge is.
    The chrome valve cover is temporary coverage.
    419660B9-2730-4173-A7A9-44DEAA419D60.jpeg
     
  18. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 6,328

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    What is the TW to TD ratio? :rolleyes:
    TW= time working
    TD= time driving
     
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  19. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,158

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looks great! Can’t believe that intake got that filthy that fast!
     
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  20. Osoty
    Joined: Nov 21, 2017
    Posts: 119

    Osoty
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Fuel lines look good, your rather handy with your bender. Did you about crap your pants when you discovered the paint bubbling on your carb?
     
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  21. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    :D Yes time working vs time driving is pretty lopsided right now.
    However since it’s cold and snowy at the time being it’s good to have a nice warm heated shop.
    As much as I like driving I’ve really enjoyed building and refining it too.

    Yes, a lesson learned from that, first of all is that powder coating isn’t resistant to fuel stains.
    I’m sure that my fuel leak issues will be cured now and the ceramic coating will be more durable.

    Thanks, the years working as an industrial pipe fitter / welder working along with the instrumentation guys really taught me a lot about running tubing.

    When I saw the paint damage I wasn’t happy but I was prepared to get the carbs refinished.

    I was really happy when Clive stepped up and acknowledged the problem and offered to make it right.
     
  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    You know what they say make one little change and it adds 10 more :D

    Adding the 1/4” phenolic spacers under the carbs and gaskets for a total of 13/32” required the fuel lines to be made over again and the next change was to the solid 3/16” stainless steel rod connecting to the throttle pedal.

    After a couple of hours of creative bending and polishing everything clears and works smoothly from idle to WOT.

    All that because the carbs sit 13/32” higher :D
    A0854CB7-B29A-4274-82C0-6A3BB2EFFDA3.jpeg 7E530E31-7B06-4577-9B22-A5C875FF01E3.jpeg 497D8288-62C5-4A1B-A95F-C3C080AE68B9.jpeg F8D9A955-4620-4871-8889-FEA85FC7ECDF.jpeg
     
  23. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 6,328

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Looks great! If you had just taken your time and done it right the first time........:rolleyes: :D
     
  24. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    :D Everyone is a comedian :D
    I’ll take some of the responsibility for this but not all of it :p:D
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2020
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  25. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,855

    atch
    Member

    I love it when you post up pix of your carbs/intake. There might be a more beautiful 3-2 setup out there somewhere but I have yet to see it.
     
  26. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks
     
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  27. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,158

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    wait till you find out that after being a pipe fitter so long he put it together hanging upside down under the house next to the boiler with a torch running because he just couldn’t get comfortable and focus with it just sitting on the bench in a nice climate controlled shop.

    lol ;)
     
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  28. Osoty
    Joined: Nov 21, 2017
    Posts: 119

    Osoty
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What fittings did you use for your lines to carbs? Those are cool
     
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  29. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks, they’re from Stromberg, chrome 1/4” NPT to 5/16” hard line compression fittings for the fuel log and then chrome 5/16” compression hard line nuts to go into the chrome 5/16” Stromberg S jet fuel inlet valves.

    All the fittings are available on the Stromberg 97 website.
     
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  30. Stunning rework, Larry. Would look great parked at the LARS. :cool::cool: Oh.... all the best for 2021. :D JW
     
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