Ok guys I picked up a extra Ford 260 engine to rebuild and need some pointers on where to start. Yes I'm a newbie when it comes to rebuilding motors etc but thats why I'm here..... So the plan is to rebuild the new engine and then take out the original engine in my 63 Mercury Meteor and rebuild that one as that one has some white smoke when running. I would like to keep the original engine pretty much stock without a lot of changes but the new engine I wouldn't mind a little extra goodies depending on cost. The new engine that I got on craiglist for $100 the only thing I know about it is the engine did run but the guy that I got it from bought a 63 Falcon parts car and was going to use that engine as well but found a deal he couldn't pass up on a 289 so now I have it. The engine is pretty much complete comes with the generator setup as well so where do I begin?? Here are some pictures of what I'm working with..... 1963 Mercury Meteor Original Engine New Engine Another New Engine Photo Thank you for any suggestions and ideas. Todd
seems like I had a friend rebuild one back in the 80's and he had issues with the lifter sizes? You may want to check that out.
My advice always to people starting out is be honest with yourself, how much do I know? Generally that answer means a trip to the book store and a book on How To Rebuild Engines, and or a book on your engine in particular, the Small Block Ford. Take pictures which you are doing now. Try an I.D. the engine CORRECTLY by casting numbers/I.D. numbers, dont trust the advice of the person you purchased it from, he may not really know the history considering the age. Get a box of good quality baggies and a marking pen, these are for your hardware that you remove. Mark each bag clearly where the bolts came from. I like to suggest also, find which cylinder is #1, what is the correct direction of rotation of both the crankshaft and the distributor rotor. Take out all of the spark plugs and LOOK at each one, anything wrong with any of them? Make a note of the cylinders if you find some duds. Now familiarize yourself with turning over the engine, find TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, remember there is 2 TDC's. Now make note of the vacuum advance canister and the rotor, with the number 1 piston TDC on compression. Write this down somewhere and save that info. You can learn this now, or learn it after you build the engine and maybe take the chance of hurting something during the critical initial start up. That should get you started, TR
Keep in mind the old engine should be a 5 bolt bell-housing and somewhere ford started using 6 bolt engines and bell-housings.
All 260s are 5 bolt. The change came in '65, except the Mustangs, early 65 VINed ones built in '64 had 5 bolt & later '65s had 6 bolt. Get Tom Monroe's "How to rebuild your S.B. Ford" from HP Books.
All refs I've ever seen say all 221/260s are 5 bolt, as production had ended on them before the change in '65.
When you pull the pan, check to see if the main caps and rods are numbered. You will need a way to number them if they are not already, like a stamp set, or electric etching pen. Notice too when you remove the rod caps, which way do the bearing tang slots face- the pan rail or the cam. You can fiqure this out by one of two methods, but its just as easy to record the information now. Its not the end of the world if you forget any of the above steps, but they are critical to know. If the rod caps and rods are not numbered and they become seperated, you and the machinist will have your work cut out for you, but not the end of the world.
I pulled a engine out of a 63 fairlane right water pump and someone put a 77 302 block 6 bolt.If both are 5 bolts and r water pump will be the same for the most part.Looks like yours has been worked on lately.
I agree with all of the above. Buy a book. Read it cover to cover. Take a walk to the garage, look at the motor, then go read the book again. Buy tools. A number set, a camera, and a box of sealable plastic bags, a marker. Do you have a clean place to work? Buy a drain pan, and a bag of floor dry. Keep your tools clean and put away when not in use. You can do without an engine stand, Put the block on the flywheel end for dissassembly and assembly. Fords number 1234 on the right side, 5678 on the left. The driver sits on the left in that car. Clean, clean, clean.Have fun!
Go to the book section of amazon, try 2 searches. Ford 260 and Ford small block, check out the rebuild books. I got this mopar one http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Mopar-Engines/dp/0895861283/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_5 and it's pretty good, takes you step by step with pictures for a rebuild. They've got a few Ford ones listed, maybe someone here knows which one is better then the other?
Looks like his replacement engine only has a 5 bolt bell, the 6th bolt boss is missing just above the dowel area on the right side. Before ordering a single part, take it apart and check bore/stroke to be 100% sure of what you have. He should stay away from a 302 because none will bolt to his tranny. He also has a smaller flex plate/flywheel and is 28oz imbalance and some 302's are 50 oz. Don't confuse the issue. You have any questions feel free to PM me. Too many things to talk about if this is your first build. Be glad to help in any way. I run a 5 bolt 289/C4 in my '57. Build my own street and race motors. Any question is fair game here, enjoy your project. SPark
I have a 260 Block and crank along with the bellhousing and flywheel from a 4 speed 63 1/2 Falcon Sprint. Free if you come and get it.
A late reply or maybe more of a statement. Years ago I heard that a 221 ford measured 18" from manifold to manifold. I have since wondered what the width of a 260 ford engine is and how does it compare to a 289. The 221 and 260 aren't horse power giants but if they are narrow enough I have always felt that they would be a great engines in a Model A Ford. Sorry for the off subject intrusion into this thread but I was enticed to reply by someones statement about why not go with a 289 because of the higher output and easier parts availability. Does any one know the width difference between the 221, 260 and 289 engines from manifold to manifold. I like the idea of a small V8 engine in a Model A. After all for years V8 60s and other flathead V8 were the engine of choice for Model A Ford engine swaps and even the 221 or 260 put out more than the stock flatheads. Either of these engines with a T5 would be perfect for a Model A Driver. Dick
As to the width question, they should be the same except for the 351, which had taller decks. Also I'm not familair with any difference in the exhaust manafold department. I assume as long as they are the same as what you have you sould be okay, width wise. 260's were not a powerhouse, but people did sell a lot of things to perk them up in the 60's. Shelby comes to mind, and possibly Holliman and Moody. If it was mine, I'd put a small cam it it, and probably put on a larger carb. A 2bbl from a 390 would probably work well, if you wanted to keep it more or less stock looking. Check the distributor for wear. If you can grab the main shaft and it moves a bit, then it's time to replace it. That was a weak spot on early SBF engines, as well as a rather weak oil pump drive shaft. I twisted one up badly on my 260, years ago. Yours looks pretty clean for an engine that's that old. Good Luck.
Good deal. I say iffn your new to this game go to your local u-pullit or equivelant and just start pullin one apart. Any small ford will do, of course the older the better. Dont scatter the parts because some other guy might be thankful you did the heavy lifting. Do this a few times to get the idea of what your doin. Its informative and fun.
For years back in the 80s/90s my daily was a 63 S33 Meteor White/Tan with the original (rebuilt by me) 260 and 4 speed. Awesome car and belongs to an old friend now who cosmetically restored it and keeps it well. At the time I used a ford engine rebuild book and the local machine shop that was familiar with that motor. The biggest challenge was corrosion damage to the internal aluminum plate at the front of the motor. Be sure yours is in good shape and not corroded too much. It can be repaired if damaged - but I believe only by someone really good with metal. With a 4 barrel, a mild cam and a few slight mods, that motor in that car is really fun and can take you anywhere and everywhere you might want to go. I used to take it from CA to Utah on ski trips in the winter - that trunk comes in handy if you like to ski/cycle/travel/collect crap etc... Good luck and keep up the posts.
The oil pump drive shaft is a weak link in SBF's ARP makes a good unit,grab this book:http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/index.html lot's of good info.260's have 53cc heads good for compression if you are going through the heads you could opt for hardened seats and the larger 302 valves to help breathing.
I can tell you from experience that the 289/302 is wider than the 260. The 260 uses a wider equalizer bar than the 289/302.
On the intake you can not go and larger then a 185 valve. The larger ones will hit the cylinder wall.
The 260 and 289/302 are the same other then the bore and the bell housing bolt area. 289/302 intakes will fit the 260. so will the heads but the large valve heads will not work because the valves will hit the cylinder walls. The 260 and 289 use the same crank. The 260 has a 3.80 bore and the 289/302 has a 4.0 bore
Dimensional width of the block is narrower than the 289/302 http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1964-V-8-CLUTCH-EQUALIZER-BARS-48p716.htm
My suggestion is 1.78 in and 1.45ex http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange5.html you can also use Chevy 1.5 exhaust valves as Fords share the 11/32" stems.The Mustang Tri-Y header would be a good add on also.The older Edelbrock F4B(Cobra clone) intakes work very well on the 260's a Holley 390CFM R-8007 carb would work well.
At the bell it is. The 5 bolt block start to go up and around were the 6 bolt has a flat surface before it goes up and around. That would make the bar longer.
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