Hot Rods 265 w/PG trans in a Model A Frame

I spoke with a guy at Antioch Billetproof 2012, who had a the Hurst engine mount system on his sbc. I commented how I wasn't able to bolt up the stock mechanical fuel pump on my sbc in a 55 Chevy, using the Hurst cradle engine mount system. He said he couldn't bolt up the stock mechanical fuel pump either because of the Hurst motor mount system.

 

I'm not sure I mind an electric fuel pump if necesary.

 

Cerberus

The diagram you posted of the Hurst instructions appears to indicate that the vertical portion of the mount (the part that bolts to the engine block) is flat...or it's all in the same "plane as the front of the engine.

I have a Hurst-style mount, but on mine, this part of the mount is bent toward the radiator just outside of the block bolts. I'm wondering if mine is from a little later and the bends allow you to use the mechanical fuel pump. I don't have pics, but I can try to get some.

Any thoughts?

 

The oriiginal Hurst cradle motor mount system is stamped Hurst on it. Speedway sells a version of it today. Speedway says there mount was designed for electric fuel pumps. If you go to their web site there are several comments from customers who bought Speedway's cradle mount system that say they had to use an electric fuel pump for clearance reasons.

 

Oh, forgot to post Speedway's diagram with note:

 

Also note the Speedway unit does not have the two vertical strengthing bars like the Hurst.

 

Well, I take that back....Cerberus pics shows them there.
Are they there or not?

 

Speedway got cheap and uses "special washers" instead of the rectangular thick spacers.

 

I see that as well. Would not be to difficult to make proper spacers.

I'm still confussed as to do they have the horizontal supports or not. Their pic in their catalog does not show them but their instruction sheet does?

 

It's not a setup that I would deliberately buy to put in an A or a hot rod but if you already have it and it's in good/great shape head on go for it.
Make sure you run a good cooler on the trans as I didn't think I needed one on the cast iron glide in my "light weight" T bucket and the trans didn't last all that long.

 

Note: SBC Short water pump Lower Hose connection is tight with the style front mount. On a 37 Ford P/U a long water pump worked better.

 

Yup, already have it so, going for it!
......good info about the trans cooler. Thanks.

 

I'm sure there are details to still be worked out like the hoses etc.

 

Just did a compression check. All between 140 - 150 and one at 165. Not bad for an 80k mile engine.

I think I'm going to just drop it in and run it as is. At 2k driving miles a year....it will be along time before a teardown and will probably be someone elses rod by then.

 

I notice this one does not have the road draft tube and the hole has been plugged?
I understand if you plug it you need another way for it to breathe.
I don't want VC breathers.
I'd like to pull the plug in it and find a correct road draft tube.
Anyone know what years will fit this?

 

BTW, I still have the interior tube....I just need the tube that goes into the back intake manifold.

 

Or, can I simply do this...add a PVC?
With this setup do I need anything else?

 

I tried this setup on my 57. It ran like*****. I Went back to road draft tube. Maybe it pollutes a bit but it can breathe.

 

if you need the bellcrank for the PG kickdown, let me know--I have one somewhere

 

olscrounger....thanks, looks like I don't have that part.

Anyone have the top road draft tube? What years will fit?

 

I'm guessing you've seen one on an existing motor?
If you measure the receiving port in the manifold, then I'd hunt around for any similar (say GM) setup and tie it in. Sometimes when the motor had blow-by or back pressure I recall adding some baffle vanes, angled downward internally to the front fill pipe, to prevent the oil from being carried up with the fumes, sort of a check-valve for liquid oil. This was better than removing the PCV and returning to '57 draft-tube grime deposits under the car.

 

Mr48chev....is there provisions (line in/out) for trans cooler on these PG's?
I haven't really looked and no lines came with or the previous owner simply kept them for the other swap?

 

see photos....allstar products under their 'quick time brand are the suppliers for speedway.........

 

gasserjohn....thanks

 

The cast iron powerglides have a bad habit of "burping" trans fluid out the filler pipe, especially when parked for awhile. Hopefully the rebuilder took care of it.

The early 265 had a one year only cam with a flat spot. If you want to use a newer cam you can grind the flat spot or drill a hole in the block to prevent oil starvation. I drilled a hole.

The earliest 265's did not have any filter and the canister was an option at first. The earliest motors also had trouble with the rings sealing. The original owner of my early '55 wagon told me he had his engine replaced with a '56 in '56 because of burning oil. I've heard the dealers used cleanser down the carb to try to solve this problem. Not bad problems for an engine that went from drawing to production in 3 months.

What about using the mounting braces off a '55 frame and the stack rear mounts? One rear mount (pass side?) does wear out faster than the other. When that happens, going into reverse is difficult.

The cooling lines run on the right side and originally went to the radiator.

 

ol55...thanks
Didn't know about the trans burping issue...hope it's fixed wit the rebuild is right!
I did know about the cam issue for oiling the top end.
I have the cannister.
This one has 80k miles on it, we'l see.
Haven't decided on the trans mount yet.
I now have the front Hurst mount.

I'll also check for the cooler lines.

 

If they didn't fix the burp problem, most of the tri-five vendors sell a check valve that you put in one of the coolant lines...

 

CodeMonkey....thanks.

 

I'd be willing to bet that any early production teething problems had been worked out way before said engine and trans reached anywhere near 80,000 miles. I also would not worry about the braces on the adapters, or even grinding notches in the adapter for fuel pump or radiator hose clearance issues. You must realize that these things were made for guys that either built up their motors or at the very least ran the hell out of 'em. You probably will be no threat to the parts in comparison. Any mods you make to the mount, if too severe, could be reinforced with common sense and a decent welder. I think keeping the package as user friendly as possible would be a good goal. A stock fuel pump is very dependable. Also, the short water pump will most likely make the package fit much easier.

 

Sounds like a fun package! I wish you many miles of smiles!!!!