'27 Ford Roadster windshield pivot question

Hey everyone, It's been a while since I posted, kinda been out of the loop so-to-speak, but I need some help.

I bought a reproduction windshield frame for my '40's style '27 Roadster. Of course the new windshield frame isn't "exact", as you have to drill the frame on both sides to accept the pivot studs. ALso there are filler blocks to drill & tap. No problem doing all that, but where the heck are the holes supposed to be from the top of the frame? The windshield frame does not rest on the cowl. It is above the cowl nearly an inch as I can tell from any I have seen, but I don't have an original for reference.

Does someone out there have an original 26-27 roadster windshield that wouldn't mind measuring how far from the top of the windshield frame the center of the studs are? It is the pivot stud location on the frame I am after.

Any help would be great. Thanks!
Bill

 

Hey there Bill, A windshield whats up wit dat.

Is there a rubber seal that goes in the bottom like the model A has. If you have that I would just put it where it seals and looks good.

Or just bring it by the shop and we'll weld it in place

 

Hey Detroit, just checked on Speedwaymotors.com they show stantions or posts as they call them, also bottom windshield rubber heres a 27 from Carnut .com TheySpeedway) might answer your question on lenght of pivit point just a thought...

 

As mentioned by roadstar, install the rubber seal at the bottom and set it in place, mark the holes or just one, then make the other side the same. Speedway or Macs sells both the frame and seal. Good Luck, dirty dug

 

Thanks guys.

Here's the thing about the Speedway stuff (I actally bought their posts, but they were brass, and would not have been easilly chopped.) The stock windsheld posts have two pivot holes (the original 27 had a split windshield. I'm using the bottom) I am cutting through the center of the lower pivot point, and the center of the top pivot point, discarding the four foot section between(LOL) and welding the top tip and the bottom together at the pivot point. That said, I suppose just matching up the tops would work. I do have a new seal for the bottom and sides of the frame where the frame meets the cowl and the posts. I just wanted to blur the line between a fudged/eyballed repop to an original.

Rudy, I'll try to swing up to the shop on friday. I was at SEMA last week. CRAZY!

Thanks guys,
Bill