Got the bed wood modified, to go around the coil over upper mounts. Just used a wood rasp and then bolted it to the bed and slid it on the body. Played around with what wheels id like more. Leaning heavily towards the wires over the kidneys. Hoping to play around with modifying subrail to accomodate the shifter after I place the engine back in the frame. Hopefully can get around to that tonight. Really happy with how the car sits, and have room to move coil overs down on their lower mounts (This is the middle of 3 holes on lower mounts). Also debating between dark red and orange powder coating or paint for the wires. Going to paint the doors to match the crappy green on the rest of the car. Gordy
Frame painted and chassis assembled with some dielectric grease on the four bar bushings. I acquired a 34 a little bit ago and now it’s hard for me to focus on the truck. Moves the chassis outside and will try my best to get the truck going before I tinker with the 34. 34 is sitting a little high tho so might give it a quick altitude adjustment haha
Got some work done on the truck when my brother was in town. Worked on fitting up the wood that I varnished a while back. I assume its not fitting up nice on account of it not being on the frame with the body blocks under it and not yet shimmed. The reason being I had to order some gauges and extra fuel sender for my saddle tanks. Once I get those and run the fuel lines on the chassis I think Ill be all set to put the body blocks and cab on the chassis. Does anyone know if theres brackets that mount inside the wood areas of the roof? I saw a video of a 30/31 coupe with wood top pieces and he had some brackets inboard of the perimeter of the roof wood. Wondering if 28 CCPU is the same or similar?
Finished up the firewall fab, still have one little cracking area to fix. Took a second section of A firewall I bought for $20 and cut it to fit thru the model a lower firewall bolt holes. Secured the tob by taking the hood diving board seat and cutting a piece off. The distributor slides into that tang on the top of the firewall, then bolts down below to the lower firewall. I used a chevy bellhousing lower splash cover and it fit pretty great to keep all the carbon monoxide out of the cab. I left it a little long and made little slits every inch or so. I heated the tangs that had been slit with MAPP gas and the smacked em down with a hammer to fit the semi circle part of the lower firewall. I think it looks pretty slick and am very happy with it.
Mounted the saddle tanks and got some proper cast iron running board brackets. Need to figure out the fuel lines and senders for the saddle tanks. Put the green webbing on the frame. Mounted vega box. Also have a tie rod (not pictured) that is toed in to about where it needs to be so I can more easily roll the chassis out from my tent on the side of my garage, lol. Hoping to be done by late August but we will see.
Finished up front end, minus drag link. But tie rod is in, king pins reamed and in there. Need to also paint the nuts and bolts on the front end so they dont get rusty as this thing will live outside. Just a brush job though. Also started running fuel line. Gonna have to mock up the motor to make sure the exhaust fits with no interference.
Mocked up motor last night. The exhaust does not interfere with the fuel line, so happy about that. Hoping to run the hyd clutch line today. I also get my transmission in the mail today. Colin convinced me to get a TKX so I'll be running a 2.89 and .68 close ratio TKX. Heard they're bulletproof and they have OD. Think itll go nice with my 3.50 rear gears. That comes today. Hoping to get the dash into some what of a done state. Hoping to paint it a metal flake green to go with my white gauges I got. Think itll offset the black nicely.
Bent the pitman arm, made a drag link from an early ford tie rod. It split as I was tapping it. So I'm buying a new tie rod from speedway in order to make it not so dangerous. Clutch line is ran, and so is the fuel line. Next up is getting the actual motor in there and setting up the TKX and making the parking brake. I got a lokar kit a while back cheap at a swap meet, but I dont have a handle. Plan on just adapting a model a e brake handle and making a bracket to bolt it to the trans. Then its time to put the body on.
Got the TKX in. Needed to buy a shifter relocation kit to move it forward so its in a nicer spot. Had to modify the trans crossmember to get the trans to fit better. And made a parking brake handle from a model a and used a lokar kit for the "Y" or union that connects the cables.
Chassis pics. Found some nicer black lacquer aprons, running boards and front fenders. Would really like to find a nice set of black rear fenders for a 28/29 PU/Roadster/Coupe if anyone knows of any in SoCal? haha Its a shame that a body is gonna go on this thing haha but shes asking to be driven.
Firewall for some reason didn't fit over the passenger valve cover. Did not understand how that happened as I had it all mocked up, but alas it wasnt going to work. So I heated it with my torch and pushed it in with a hammer then sprayed it black. And now the body is mounted.
LOL. Yeah I mocked it up with cal custom covers, then the motor has edelbrocks. it wasnt even close. Maybe i warped it during final welding? Not too sure. Anyway its good (and less pretty, but still not too ugly) now.
Working on the throttle pedal. Help needed if able. This is a mustang throttle pedal. Got the idea from a real cool 27 T roadster at lars. My last build I used a tri five chevy pedal that Colin gave me. Currently have it mocked up where I narrowed the bracket and arms. The mount inside the firewall. Plan was to bend the arm inboard in the engine compartment that runs to the carb. Then a rod connecting the arm to the throttle on the carb. I was gonna bend the arm to fit better inside the cab and be where I want my foot. Outside the firewall would be cleaner but I dont really have the room in the engine compartment. I was thinking of narrowing the bracket and arms even more. I don't love the idea of the slot in the firewall, and am worried it will be hard to seal from engine compartment fumes. I'm not opposed to buying another throttle pedal and trying something else, but if anyone has any ideas how to make this work itd be greatly appreciated. Heres how the 27 roadster was done (I think he has a slot for the pedal if you look closely), but looking for other options.
Finished the fuel lines. Need to wire the car, do the roof and input the door glass. And get a driveshaft. Getting there,
I see where your fan is situated, down in the lower half of the radiator. Mine's that way, too, and I'm running a 351 Windsor. I've started to fabricate a shroud to try to pull some air through the top half of the radiator and my fan is less than a half inch from the radiator - tight quarters but it should be all right. I guess we'll both find out soon enough.
Yeah I got a few aces up my sleeve if it doesnt work. Might try running smooth radiator hoses, or a zips water pump of it seems like its not cooling. I used a 165deg thermostat with a hole drilled in it, so we will see if it keeps it cool enough. Hopefully. lol always something. My tub had the engine sitting a bit higher and that thing runs at 180 all day long and its just a 283 I found on craigslist. (The tubs chevy motor has 80-90psi of oil pressure pretty consistently). Gordy
That picture is so cool. I love in progress shots like that. I was sitting in my A RPU last night to test out a seat I bought, and with no bed realized how far back you sit from the front wheels (and how close you are to the rear wheels). Your picture illustrates that perfectly.
The Jalopy Journal
