283/302 question, will a 283 take 4" bore?

if one were to want to build a 302 because one thinks they're cool, will a 283 block take a 4" bore, or is it mandatory to start with a SJ 327 block?

Granted I realize that if it is theoretically possible to bore a 283 that far, it needs to be sonic checked first, and I realize that 302 pistons are pricy, but I want one dammit.

 

Anyone?? I cannot go to bed until I know.

 

This has been covered ..........at least 25 times.......

Yes and NO.......

Some will and some will not.......A 327 small journal block with a 283 crankshaft is the BEST way......

 

Yeah, I suck at Search. Thanks for the reply. The more I've sat here and thought about it this evening, the more I think I may just go .060 over...that's almost halfway between a 283 and a 302 after all

 

That's what I did on my last 283 rebuild ( 2004 ) I went .060

Pistons are easy to find and it is a 292 cubic inch engine.....the extra 10 inches is just NOT worth the trouble and expense to bore 1/8th

Randy

 

a 283 bored 1/8" to 4" is a crap shoot....

i wouldn't (and don't) use any block bored over .030

 

It'll run exceedingly hot. IMO, I don't think it's necessary to go that "far-out" on the bore. it's your choice, but not the most practical thing to do with a mill that'll run like hell with a standard bore & a mild cam. I know. I have one now. Good Luck!

 

I can't find a local small journal 327 block so I plan to go .060 on the build up of my 283.

 

back in the 50s we bored several blocks that we ran in a dragster. allbut a couple held up. today I have a 283/302, the block is poured and will run on alky. best bet is sj 327, or .060/292.

 

Rumor has it that if you want to punch a 283 out to 301, a '58-'62 block is your best bet.

 

57&63-up .060 is max overbore on 283, discounting internal rusting.

 

I've had two different guys tell me that there is a specific 283 truck block that can go 4.00-inch. Anybody know about that?
They both claimed the one in my '62 Suburban was it.

-Brad

 

The 58-62 283 can go .120, baring 40+ yrs of internal rusting, or core shift.

 

You can take a 283 and bore it .060 to 292--get some nice pistons, cam, heads, etc and get over 300 h.p. on pump gas. It will perform great. Will surprise you.

 

Anyone reading this thread intested in a DZ-302 crank?

 

That is a large journal crank. Pop that crank in a 4-inch bore 350 block and you exactly the same 302, but a large journal version.

 

We used to look for '62 blocks to punch .125. I punched a '58 block that much but the '62 was one we always looked for.

I built and or ran a ton of 'em punched that far, don't recall a heating problem with any except for one we had in a '62 short bed. Had the radiator rodded out and that cured the problem. They actually come out to 301'n'change, and we always called them a 301. GM called 'em a 302.

Down side is that they are a thorw away block, that's the very last bore. And to someone who has never driven one that was even just mildly built it is worth the expense to go the extra .065. The bore to stroke ratio is as close to perfect as you will ever get.

 

Thanks guys, some pretty great info here.

I think, despite what pork and beans typed just above about the last .065 being worth it....I am gonna stick with a .060 overbore this time around. Especially since the block I have is a '65 casting. Bore/stroke ratio is pretty good enough for serious RPM by SBC standards, and I don't want to pay double for pistons AND have to find another block. I still have a serious fascination with the 302, I guess because of my roadracing background. But I know I can make over 300 HP with the .060 motor, and that's good enough for my little pickup.

 

Porknbeaner is right, a 283 punched out an eighth was always a 301. I built one back in the 60's, 12 1/2 to one pistons, ran hot as hell. The cylinder walls held up fine. I was probably lucky and the block was one of the thicker walled ones previously mentioned. There were a few 301's around back then, and they all ran pretty strong. That ended in '67 when a kid showed up at school with a 396 powered 55 Chev 2 door. He cleaned everybody's clock.
Nowadays I bore the hell outta flathead V8's.

 

well that's just f'n DANDY. Now you've gone and told me I have a '62 283 core that I'm going to have to build a front engine dragster around. Like I NEED another project...

 

The guy doing my machine work for over 30 years (the boss behind Ackerly and Childs)says 63 and earlier, go for it. The others, flip a coin and see if you should sonic test it. In other words, it's not that risky. Not like going .125 on a 454 to make a 482. Or boring a 396 to make a 427. Most of those fuckers died an untimely death. Also, it sounds COOLER calling it a 301. That's what the Hot Rodders/Racers called it for years. Chevrolet, not wanting to be copy cats called em 302s. Cooler stigma attached to the 301 i think. PS- you just may find a set of Jahns pistons (i did for my Gasser Willys a couple years ago with a 62 Impala block), as 301s were VERY popular. Put a "want" post for them.

 

Yes. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/402-cubic-inches-from-a-283.1004739/#post-11335905

 

301" S / B Chevy's ruled the roost back in the day.

 

You could use a 350 block IF you could find some of the bearings that were/are made to use a small journal crank in a large journal block . I had a set but ...

 

Personally I think it's a waste ruining a 283 block that someone could use to restore their car with.... Save yourself some cash and go with a small journal 327 block...
It is the right thing to do!

 

Back when this thread was started...

 

Holy thread resurrection Batman!!

 

I do hope he went to bed.

 

Not a fan of going 283 route the small journal 327 works better and IMO lasts longer

 

Even if it works to bore to 4", they usually run hot. I'd go to .060" over and call it good. Even then I'd want the block to be checked first for bore shift, prior to boring that large.