283 budget build suggestions

Ok looks like my 60 is gonna keep the 283, 63k with the 2bbl. What suggestions do you allknowing guys have, trying to do it on a low budget to no budget. Its backed with the glide. I have a set of hugger headders but no other parts as of yet.Should I rebuild?

 

How far are you gonna tear it down? What's wrong with it?

 

The 283 isn't necessarily the cheapest engine to rebuild. I have a WAD in mine. .030 over and a Duntov cam - and not much else.

JH

 

Not really anything wrong just wanta be reliable for some longer trips, add a lil power and cool it up a bit.

 

The best running 283 I had was back years ago. I did have it bored .030, used a chevy 098 cam, 194 heads with good valve springs with the studs pinned (old school ****), Edelbrock C-3B intake and a 3310 Holley. It ran great and was inexpensive to build. As long as you have a good complete, running engine to start with, it should not be all that expensive.

john

 

Run a compression test. If it's good, then do some of the basic's: Super tune up point's plug&wire's dist.cap w/br*** terminal's. Thermostat, water pump (short syle right?) alt or generator? Have it checked or replaced. Flush radiator. Save up for 4bl intake and carb, cam kit w/timing chain.

 

if you want to go cheap and dont care bout newer parts grab a 305 HO its high output but more of a joke from GM use the top end port & polish heads block or weld up polution **** in factory aluminum intake get an older qud jet go with headers or at least dauls and use a cam for a hot 327 like repro 327/300hp cam did a 307 in a 70s velle up this way bot 14 years back cept for cam parts were pretty much free took a gutl*** 307 that got 12 miles a gallion and made it scream & get 20 mpg was backed by factory PG trans open 307 rear W N50s tires + heads will let you run cheap pump gas

 

I put some stock refreshed 58CC chanmber 305 heads on my 283 and installed a 1102 or 1103 (can't remember which part number it was) summit cam and lifters for 65 bucks.

My desktop syno put it at max 280 HP - It ought to be a pretty peppy motor

To make it really peppy - I'd like to put a solid lifter roller cam in it. But that ain't budget

 

You can make it more fun with a stock chevy 300 horse cam, alum intake and a 4 barrel...will make a world of difference from the 2 barrel...

 

bttt

 

Use the 305 HO heads and try to get a later 283 block. The mid 60's 283's had thicker cylinder walls than the early ones.

 

You say there isn't anything really wrong with the engine but you want more reliability. HELLO!!!You have what is possibly themost trouble free reliable engines ever produced. Why mess with it unless there is a major reason to do so? My experience (over 45 years of playing with SBC's) is if you don't go COMPLETELY through an engine and do a comprehensive rebuild with professional machining and top quality parts you'll end up with something that is not as good as what you started with. In other words "if it ain't broke,don't fix it".

Frank

 

There is an article in the new Rod and Cutom that covers a dual quad 283. Learn from their mistakes. It's a good article.

 

I have built lots of this generation 283 engines, and the most reliable setup is to run a pair of 461 heads, with 194's and then use the Duntov 30/30 cam with a C4B Edelbrock intake and a nicely prepped 4778 Hollry carb. Top it off with a good early dual point and it will perform great, however the vacuum signal from the Duntov will not work well with a non convertered glide. By the way, dont bother with the headers, stick with a good set of ramhorns, as you can still go to Chevrolet and get some with a 2.5 openening.

 

First off I think that you have on e of the most reliable engines Chevy ever built. Second I am not sure why but every one raves about these 305 HO heads. The only experiance I have ever had with them is that they tend to crack between the valves. Why not a set of fuelie heads. they seem to be plentifull and not very expensive. Those heads with an old C-3b manifold and a duntov 30-30 cam with some full length headers should do the trik real well.

But what do I know.

 

DON'T use the 30/30 Duntov cam. Even Duntov himself said it's not the best one for the street. It sounds wonderful with those lifters clattering away at .030 lash but the 350 hp 327 cam will run all over it on the street. I've run this comparison about 5/6 times with customers cars and my own. The 350 hp cam will beat the 30/30 every time. The idle lope of the 350 hp is sweet in it's own right and the mid range torque is frosting on the cake. Besides you don't have to do the weekly valve adjustment.(and I love running the valves but will p*** this time).

Frank

 

Wanting to do something a little cooler than the stock 2bbl set up , wake it up a bit . This is going where I had hoped , Great info guys keep it comming. Merry Christmas

 

3 dueces?-Only running the middle one for now but maybe this winter, I'll get the lead out.

Mootz

 

I run the 350/327 blueprint cam in my 283... It thumps and is pretty good on gas.

 

Thanks for the info on the cam Frank. I just picked up a 283 virgin block and forged crank for cheap and have been bench building it in my mind.

 

Swimming against the tide here I'll tell you NOT to use the 30-30 Duntov cam. It was designed for a larger cubic inch engine and it's power band is too high for any practical street application in a 283. Even Duntov himself said it wasn't the right cam to use on the street. If you must use a OEM cam put a 350 hp 327 cam in it and smile as the you beat the wannabe racers with their 30-30 cams. The 30-30 has a cool sound with the lifters clattering away at idle but the mid range of the 350hp cam will leave it in the dust EVERY time(especially in a 283)
With that said there are many aftermarket cams that will do an even better job with no added cost. The best way to find one is to inquire of the cam help dept. at your favorite manufacturer for some sound advice. These guys have more research and testing into their products than you could do in a lifetime and they want you satisfied with your choice. Just be honest when you give them your engine specs, gearing, and intended use.

Frank

 

Well...I had a '61 Chev back in high school...283/two bbl/3 speed...no money,either. I did a freshen up on an engine that didn't need it....I put a Duntov 30/30 cam in an engine that couldn't use it..in a car that was way too heavy for it...All I could afford to buy for speed parts was that cam....I dragged the car on weekends and went SLOWER after I put that big cam in it! Yeah, It sounded real cool...NOBODY wan't to street race me...but my fuel economy went in the toilet...My point is ...keep your ride the same for now...save up some cash...you can add a good dual plane intake, a 500 cfm carb (you motor can't handle more cfm), use those block huggers and a good, MILD cam and have a super running 283. Forget this lumpity lump cam business...you need to do this deal in moderation. Heck, my new Hemi build with a blower is only running a cam with 224 duration @.050. Good luck!

 

Sorry for the duplicate entry on this subject I'm sleepy this morning. The advice is still the same though.

Frank

 

Since you are asking about a budget build, and have the block huggers, use them. They flow better than the ram horns. The stock refreshed 58CC chanmber 305 breath better than your stock ones and are very cheap at most pick and pulls. A simple valve job does the trick. Find an old cast iron qjet manifold, less than 20 bucks at most swap mets and a qjet. Great carb when set up right. A lot of nhra guys run them instead of holly. Summit, paw and lots of other places have their own brand cam and liffter kits for cheap. And the new trick in nhra cl***es is a stock timing chain, less strech and way cheaper. These items will wake that 283 up.

 

Thanks for this great info. Am I waisting my time to put hardend valve seats in the original heads and mabye having a little work don to them. Not that its a no $ build, I just dont want or have a hole bunch to put in.

 

Be carefull if you run the 461 camel hump's instead of the powerpack style heads because you will lose compression. The 461's have 63cc chambers and the powerpack's have 57cc chambers. My 283 runs the original powerpack heads but I had 1.94 valves in them to replace the 1.72 intakes that were in them. I did hardened valve seats and all that too. I am running 10:1 compression and a comp cams hydraulic XE268 which has close specs to the 30-30 solid. I am planning on switching to the smaller duntov solid however because 283's love to rev like crazy. Also be carefull if you put 2.02 heads on the 283, because if you run over like .450ish lift, you will hit the cyl wall with the big intake valve. I have seem people run them, just limit your lift!!

With that being said however, for the same or less money I could have built a 350-400 horse 327 or 350 and just made it look like a 283. Wish I would have done that instead because those motors make a whole lot more low end torque than the short stroke 283!

good luck!
Matt

 

I like the 300 hp 327 cam, carb, and intake on the 283. If you redo the heads you can add 1.88 or 1.94 intakes along with the hardened exhaust seats. I know people that claim they get along without them but it would make me a little tense.

 

What recomendations on using the stock heads?

 

Put a Chevy 350 hp 327 cam in if you aren't worried about idle va***e, you won't have to keep adjusting the solid lifters on the 30-30 and no need to pin the studs either.

 

What about the stock heads?