Hey guys, I have a 1959 Chevy Apache pickup with a 283 and I'm having an overheating problem. I recently put in a new water pump, alluminum radiator, hoses, 180 degree thermostat, and 18 inch flexlite fan. I'm running straight water with 1 bottle of water wetter added and my temp sending unit is located in the intake manifold. I've also upgraded my ignition system with a pertronix flamethrower distributor, flame thrower coil, new plug wires, and new plugs. When I start the truck up the temp climbs up past 230 within just a few minutes of idle and I have to shut it down. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Last time I started it I noticed that the upper radiator hose was hot, but the radiator itself and the lower hose were not hot at all. Any help is much appreciated!!
do you have a shroud ? how close is the fan to the rad.but the first thing i would do is put in a new temp gauge. they will go bad.and before the intro police get you, get over and do a intro.go ahead,go do it now.
Ive heard people say this before (about an air pocket).....I have a similar problem with overheating and was wondering, if there is an air pocket, how does one fix it?
Sounds like an air pocket or thermostat is in upside down. Water in top and lower hose should both be nice and warm.
Quote -- Ive heard people say this before (about an air pocket).....I have a similar problem with overheating and was wondering, if there is an air pocket, how does one fix it?drill a 3/32" hole in the thermostat flange area for self bleeding,Perkins diesels t-stat's come stock that way,other engines have pet****s to aid bleeding
Timing way retarded? New radiator shipped with plugs in the inlet/outlets to keep **** out of the inside of it? No spring in bottom hose and it's ****ing flat? W/pump impeller NFG? Any/all of the above?
Yes, I do have a 5" universal shroud and the fan is about 2.75" from the radiator. Since the radiator itself isn't heating up I wasn't thinking it had to do with the fan, but should it be any closer? The temp gauge is brand new as well. Sorry about the intro I've taken care of that now!! Spring side down right? My hoses are brand new and have springs in them so they arent ****ing flat. It might be the timing. I've got it set at 2 degrees advanced right now and it idles really well, but is that not enough advance? I'm running an edelbrock 600cfm carb with all factory settings so I don't think it should be running lean.
With a shroud only 1/2 of the blade should be in the shroud,if it is in deeper it does not work correctly. Yes spring down into manifold.If the radiator is not getting hot the water is not circulating. You could have several things going on here, it is possiable you have a water pump with a reverse rotation impeller. That ain't real likely if you have the short pump though,long pump yes. Are you sure the gauge is reading correctly. Start engine with radiator cap off and look inside and see if you see water moving.
So I replaced the thermostat with another 180 degree one just to make sure it wasn't faulty and then I started the truck with the radiator cap off. The temp gauge got up to 190 with no visible movement in the radiator. Temp gauge read as high as 220 before I shut it down, still with no aparent water movement in the radiator. The upper hose was warm/hot as was the top of the radiator, but the bottom of the radiator and the bottom hose weren't even warm. Seems like I must be missing something simple!! Based on these results do you think the gauge is bad? Now that I think of it, the gauge is new, but it is still utilizing the old sending unit. When I tried to take the old sending unit adaptor out of the manifold it woudn't budge so I just reused it. Thoughts of what I should check next?
Swap out the sending unit, if it still reads hot it's likely the gauge itself. "New" parts aren't always necessarily "functioning"parts...especially with all the garbage China is shipping into the U.S.
Its not the gauge or the sending unit. Your coolant is not circulating. Pull the thermostat completely out, and run the car (with cap off) to see if you are flowing now. If the anwer is yes, it is something to do with the thermostat.
That makes sense. I'll try that out and then if there still isn't water circulating the su****ion would fall on the water pump. Thanks!
I just reread this, I think I misread it 10 minutes ago. It sounds to me like you have sludge in the bottom of the radiator. You said you're running straight water with a wetting agent...if you don't have an ANTI RUSTING agent in there you have sludge. Flush the system and your problems will be gone....be SURE to use coolant with ANTI CORROSION protectant next time.
BTW: If your waterpump is out or cavitating you would almost be able to HEAR it...if you have a good ear. Although it does depend on how bad it has gotten...cavitating tends to be noisy. I still say it's likely that your radiator is blocked at the bottom.
My 307 was/is doing the same thing. I checked the thermostat housing with an infrared thermometer and let it heat. The IR thermometer showed the thermostat opening just when it was supposed to. If it is not boiling, obviously it has not gotten to 212 yet.
He said he put in a new rad, so it can't be sludged. I will bet money that it's a reverse water pump (or defective one). that it gets that hot in that short of time means that the water isn't circulating correctly with the stat open OR closed. still have to ask the obvious question to rule out the "DOH!!!" moments...."you put the belt back on the pump, right?" just checking.
Yep, checked the belt for sure!! With the new radiator I also put in this new water pump from summit, but as folks have already said "new" doesn't always mean that it's going to work! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-311005/ I'm draining the rad right now and will pull the thermostat to see if water circulates. Yes, based on that it's does make me think that the gauge is wrong, but I'm trying the other idea first just to be safe. I guess I could also pick up an IR heat gun as others have mentioned and check the temp to confirm if the gauge is wrong. Thanks everyone for your help in trouble shooting this. I'll get it solved sooner or later!!
hey; i have a 283 in chev truck..I tossed out the 180, and use a 160..gauge still runs about 1/4 up the gauge.. 180 ran 3/4 up the gauge.. I tow with my truck..so ,it works for me. Rick
As some of the other guys have said, look to your thermostat. I had exactly the same problem with my 265 chevy. I checked everything that has been mentioned so far and fitted a new rad. The top hose was getting very hot so the thermostat was opening a bit but not enough to flow. I punched the centre out of it and put the ring back in for a slightly restricted flow. This has totaly cured the problem I had and it sounds exactly the same as the trouble your having! Hope you get it fixed.
This sounds like it's getting hot too fast to me...if it's a cold motor when you start it... to reach 230 in a few minutes is too fast. You need to replace the old sending unit with the new one as they are matched to the gauge. also when the gauge reads 230 does the engine seem that hot ? feel the valve covers or pull the dip stick and feel the oil on it. My guess is sending unit.
Man don't reinvent the wheel by gutting a thermostat. Millions and millions of vehicles use them successfully every day. Double check your timing, the pulley ratios, and definitely verify the gauge. Good luck
I had a 283 that would over-heat and when one of the freeze plugs rotted out and started leaking I found out my problem. It was 2/3 full of mud and sludge. Took the freeze plugs out and , they all needed replaced, cleaned out all the mud and it ran cool from then on.
That old t-stat that you just pulled--put it in a pot of hot water on the stove,it should be open by 170 degrees;the same could be for testing your gauge setup
Well for starters, you should be using coolant. Straight water isnt going to be kind to your water pump and engine. Plus it helps on cooling your engine. Sounds like you might have air trapped somewhere as fast as it heats up. If you take the thermostate back out pour some coolant in before you put it back in. Usually have to start it up till the water starts to boil over and the thermostate opens. Shut it down before it boils all over then add more fluid. Very time consuming. Had to do this in just about every front wheel drive G.m car ive owned at one time or another.
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