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Customs 283 ENGINE

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mister E., Feb 27, 2020.

  1. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 2,274

    X-cpe

    Budget = A short word meaning unrealistic expectation.
     
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  2. BoogittyShoe
    Joined: Feb 18, 2020
    Posts: 330

    BoogittyShoe

    Each?! Good gosh, that's a lot for a piece of tin that they stamped out in one second. If they are that good maybe you should put two on each side.
    I like that "$19.99 each". That's so you won't feel so bad about paying $40 for two of 'em.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
    61Cruiser and Mister E. like this.
  3. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,802

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Summit Racing has a budget gasket set for the whole engine @ $34.99 ;)

    IMG_3526.JPG
     
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  4. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    I was wondering if I could make them myself since they are charging so much for them everywhere!
    Sheesh, everything is almost triple now days from what they used to be!!
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2020
  5. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    That sounds like a heck of a deal for a complete setup!!
     
  6. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    If someone already answered the motor mount question, I missed it, but you can use the V8 frame and engine mounts for a 1958 Chevy 3800, all of it will bolt together. I haven't looked in a while, but all of those pieces were available new not long ago, from most of the restoration parts suppliers. There will be frame brackets, and engine brackets, along with some studs, bushings and maybe some spacers. Use 1 inch long bolts on the engine brackets, to avoid binding up the fuel pump pushrod. The frame holes should be already drilled, making this a true bolt-in swap, just like Chevrolet did it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2020
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  7. Neb Hillbilly
    Joined: Dec 20, 2019
    Posts: 339

    Neb Hillbilly
    Member

  8. Ericnova72
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 673

    Ericnova72
    Member
    from Michigan

    You can get a better deal than that....Summit carries Fel-Pro #7733SH1, a .016" thick x 4.100" bore steel shim head gasket for just $9.99/each....

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-7733sh1/make/chevrolet
     
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  9. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    I found a better deal than that, $14.99 for BOTH locally!

    Going to go with those as they are same thickness as the 2 I pulled out of the engine.

    **EDIT**

    What is the difference between .016 thickness 4.10 bore and .024 thickness 4.0 bore? Is that considered a lot in this case?
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2020
  10. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Well shoot!

    I just went out and checked both engine blocks for clearence differences in spacing and motor mounts etc, I know this is still a while yet until I am ready to install the 283, but I wanted to know since it does not appear that the front mounts location ( front cross member ) on the 235 will be a good location for the 283 since it looks like it sits back much further that what I had originally thought!

    Since many of you have done this swap already, is there a way to fabricate brackets to still use the front cross member as a mounting point? Or is that too far a stretch for the side mounted v8 block?

    I measured the motor mount points on the 283 and they sit back a good 4" to 5" difference from the front mounts on the 235.
    So that is quite a space difference in my opinion.

    I'm thinking I might need to drill the frame to install side mounts to reach the engine.
    Is this correct?
    I am hoping this isn't going to be a major modification!!

    Appreciate any feed back, thanks in advance
     
  11. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 1,255

    Mimilan
    Member

    You need these
    front mounts.PNG

    The brackets on the Engine are standard 55-57 V8 [the 235 front mounts don't fit]
    You can use the existing links and rubbers.
    If you have the skills the lower brackets can be made from a section of C channel steel and welded on


    Or you can buy a kit and drill it yourself
    https://www.brotherstrucks.com/55-59-ORIGINAL-V8-MOTOR-MOUNT-SET/productinfo/ESM5559/
     
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  12. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Ok, thats what I was wondering.
    I did see these when I looked on google, as well as a couple others that looked like they'd bolt on.
    If I can avoid any cutting/welding, and be able to do a bolt in option that will be good in my opinion!

    Thanks
     
  13. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 2,274

    X-cpe

    I don't know for sure, but since those trucks came with either a 6 or an 8, the frame should have the holes for either mount already drilled.
     
  14. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 4,129

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    There are the holes in the cross member for front mounts, but his engine is new enough it takes side mounts
     
  15. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    His engine is also drilled and tapped for the front mounts, he should be able to bolt it in without any trouble.
     
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  16. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 4,129

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    I thought he said it wasn't drilled and tapped on both sides, I may be remembering wrong though!
     
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  17. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 1,255

    Mimilan
    Member

    That was me asking him to check it [most 65-66 283's weren't drilled]
    his is drilled shown in post #13 [here]
    The upper bolt on the R/H side prevents oil leaking from the fuel pump
    111111.PNG

    Because he has a SM420 trans without the rear mount. he needs to use a truck bellhousing with mounts on it. [single bolt with 1 dowel]
    This places the rear mounts further forward than a rear crossmember does, so it is advisable to use front mounts [not side mounts]
     
  18. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    Thank you for confirming, I was not sure. I found a set of mounts, so when the time comes I will be ready.
     
  19. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 1,255

    Mimilan
    Member

    You've already been told this.
    when putting front mounts on, be extra careful with the upper R/H bolt length [too long and it will come in contact with the fuel pump pushrod]
     
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  20. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

  21. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Not to get too far astray, but I believe the 1960-'72 pickups with manual transmissions are set up this way, with side and bellhousing mounts. There is a 1970 next door that I will go take a peek at later today, just to refresh the ol' gray matter.
     
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  22. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    To clarify post #246, I mean to say you need to use 1 inch long bolts to bolt the brackets to the engine, to avoid binding up the fuel pump pushrod. You would also do well, Mister, to get the service manual for your truck. Having one will make life much easier.
     
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  23. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Good deal
     
  24. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Yeah, I'm gonna be getting a service manual soon. I should have got one already, but keep forgetting.
     
  25. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Well, I have found a couple bell housings, but I want to ask first to make sure I don't get the wrong thing.. some I have seen DO have a centered top bolt hole, (same as my block does) and some bellhousings do NOT!! Does this matter?

    Just to be sure, thanks in advance
     
  26. Neb Hillbilly
    Joined: Dec 20, 2019
    Posts: 339

    Neb Hillbilly
    Member

  27. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

  28. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Got head gaskets and put 1 of the heads back on today, now have to go to parts store for intake gaskets and put the other head and the intake on. Also got a gooseneck and dipstick since these were missing from the motor when I bought it. Found a set of motor mounts, and now just gotta get bell housing, and wire it all up I guess.

    Hopefully I've done this all correctly. :)
     
  29. G'day, Corvettes did have the short water pump until 1982 but all that I have seen have a 3/4 inch shaft so the 283 water pump pulley would have to be drilled to fit. AC Delco has short water pumps available for quite reasonable. I think the last one I sold was around $30 with no core.

    If you want to come up to North Dakota I do have a couple of 55 gallon drums full of small block pulleys, both short and long, plus Corvette and regular shaft size. Also a barrel of big block pulleys and several totes of brackets. I think they are going to s**** this summer.

    I have some of the early cast iron bell housings as well. I am never going to use them I guess.
     
  30. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 475

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Didn't get to work on anything today, been dealing with a major headache all day and just wanted to rest and take it easy.
    Might have been all the heat/sun yesterday when I was out in the parts yard, might have gotten a bit dehydrated and just over done a bit.
    Will be working on things again tomorrow hopefully.
    Neighbor has an engine hoist gonna let me borrow to pull the 235 and install the 283.
    Just waiting on parts now...

    Got engine mounts, head gaskets, need to do the intake & gaskets, then got to get exhaust setup and thinking about how I want the exhaust to go....

    Anyway, .....
     

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