Technical 283 induction setups- what works best

I'm not knowledgeable on camshafts for chevs. I've just heard a lot of guys like the L79 cam and they sound decent. But that's probably 1000 times larger can or worms debate to open

But hell lets do it. So stock drive train, I'm after lower end torque, not a high RPM power curve. I want a good sound, but again think great driver, hit the key and go. This is not a drag car

 

Ugh the 15" tire debate is my challenge. I know they are period correct. But I just can't find a size that I like on a car this big. Unless it's ultra low, which this one is not...they just look like roller skates.
Beside, I had these new 16's, wheels, caps, yada yada.

I do have access to a very nice set of Fiestas. I have thought about attaching them to 16" beauty rings and running them on these tires/wheels with red wheels. But I'm sure the purist would HATE that

 

I have not, to be honest I have not looked up much yet. I'm still getting the car done. It runs and drives now on the stock 59AB but man it's tired. So the 283 is close to coming into play but not quite there

 

$475.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-65-66-6...ash=item360ea3ec5b:g:iHsAAOSwMtxXrwb7&vxp=mtr

 

That is a bit more then I was thinking of spending on a camshaft. But that's NOS and I don't need anything that fancy. I will probably go with an aftermarket cam whatever grind I decide. Thanks you for the information

 

Hi there Chris, 57 283 Chev is I think different than a 350/Th350 b button combo, just try finding a genuine 57 283 now dayz! The mid 50's was about puttin what ever V8 you could get your hands on for cheap! Now dayz we spend zillons on trying to put hard to get 50's V8's into out Traditional rods, and more $ trying to find cool vintage speed parts to make it go fast and look cool! Alot of 50's Rods had stock motors just straight out of the junk yard, with a adaptor to suit and some quick made engine mounts, what you have there is real kool with the 4x2 intake, what about a Spalding or W & H twin coil distributor? Keep it different with the period correct vintage speed equipment, no late model tech whiz parts and you will have a winner!

 

Chris, the 4x2 would really have the "wow" factor if you have all the carbs dialed in. My 46 has a 60 power pack 283 that was bored .040 over, and I put a L79 cam in it. Idles at 650-700 RPM. Its the perfect cam for your application. I'm running 2 carter 9400-s 400cfm carbs on a eddy c-26 intake. Got to drive the car before the snow came, and it is a pleasure to drive. Took out the front axle Monday and sent it to Sid's, so its going to be a long winter!

 

Chris; I buy a few cams from Kenny at Oregon Cam. As you probably know he's a re grinder, few know he also sells a lot of new. I can often beat my Baxter's inside deal price over the counter from Ken. 2 years ago when I was building my FE for the 57 Ford I got Cam, roller lifters and complete roller rocker assembly from him cheeper than the machine shop could get it at there price. Heck, if you really want to do it Old School ask if he can put the grind you want on your camshaft. You might be real surprised.
Probably worth at least a call. 360-256-7985
The Wizzard

 

I have a flat cap Mallory, old Cal Custom valve covers, log manifolds and a set of front mounts my friend Bruce bought at Thrifty Auto in Spokane in 1962 but never used. He donated them to the car.

 

I have used Delta Cams in Tacoma to grind all my flathead cams and reface lifters. I have never heard of Oregon Cam but I may give him a shout. Thanks for the info.

 

I spoke With Jeffery James last fall at a show about the 4 X 2 setup on his 35, as i am dying for one and on the hunt for an affordable 4X2 Weiand Manifold for my 39. He says it runs and drives awesome, and was relatively easy to set up. Just as others have said the Linkage was the most important part of it, i believe his had a linkage from Stromberg, it was really nice. His has a 265 in it i believe but i know it has a Duntov 097 cam in it and man does it sound perfect! I already have that cam for the 283 that i am putting back in my 39. Build it and run it!, or i'll trade ya a nice early weiand 2X4 setup for it......

 

The 097 cam can be bought as a Melling copy of that original grind for about $100, got mine from summit for that price. He is a Pick Of the motor in JJ's 35.

 

I'll just throw this out there, Pete1 on the HAMB and Fordbarn ground an Isky E-3 clone for my olds, you can contact him at D&L Automachine in Elbe WA. If you decide you want a "period" lobe, he is a good guy to talk to. He is REALLY good to deal with, got my cam on a Thursday, had it ground and back in the mail the following Monday.
Re: solid vs hyd, I run a big, aggressive solid with lots of spring, roller rockers and poly loks in my daily, I give them a quick check every so often with a feeler gauge, the last time I checked, they were exactly where I had set them almost a year earlier. not trying to sell you on a mechanical cam, just posting the facts.

 

Yes I know JJ very well and have picked his brain about this. He loves his set up, I think he even has an extra manifold. I believe Dickster did his linkage.

 

Not sure about the four/twos setup. A friend of mine has it on a 350 and at full throttle I had to ask him when was he going to get after it as nothing seemed to have happened. I believe a single four barrel would have had a better response.

Gary

 

Since you know the Stromberg/Ford carbs, you shouldn't have any headaches with this set up. You'll probably love the L-79 cam.

 

Be careful when you are motor planning -- not enough compression and too large of a cam in a 283 can make it a low end dog. I learned this the hard way when I originally built the motor for my coupe.
My solution was a deck clean up pass, powerpack heads, steel shim head gaskets and a stock cam. I am running a Rochester 4 barrel on a GM cast iron manifold.
Plenty of power for an old 2400 lb. coupe.

 

Once you get the process down it doesn't take much time to check/adjust the lash. Not a bad way to spend some quality time with your ride. It's not like running the rack on a V12 Detroit Diesel.

 

No, it really doesn't. I make it a practice to pull the valve covers regularly anyway. Most catastrophic engine failures have their origin in a valvetrain failure, it's a good idea to do a visual every so often. But the idea that solid lifters need adjusting very week is patently ridiculous.

 

You know, you get pretty well tuned in to how the engine sounds when it's running right too, and when something is wrong.

 

You do, even with solid lifters, if your used to listening to that particular motor, you can hear it if the lash is loose.

 

Talk about a step back in time!!! Those exhaust manifolds were only used on 55 through 56 Chevrolet cars and trucks with the 265 V-8. They were a very popular manifold to use with engine swaps due to them being an over-the-plug, log type manifold, and

with the dumps on either end, it made for easier clearance around steering boxes, especially with the 49-54 Chevrolet cars. Those intake manifolds, carburetors, Mallory distributors, and valve covers are like jewelry. It almost looks like it could be a before and after photograph of the two engines. My induction setups are more mundane; three dual quad setups. One is an old Weiand intake with matching Carter AFB's. The other two are both early 56 Chevrolet dual quad setups; one with original carburetors, the other will have clones if I ever put it together. I have the parts, just not the drive to do it currently.. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Yup - my solid lifter cam (097 in my 283 +0.060) doesn't need constant lash adjustment either. And I'm proud to have recommended the 097 to JJ.

vic

 

Yeah when i talked to him last fall he had just sold his other manifold! I would have bought it right then. One of the few times i actually had cash in my pocket!

 

my project. someday i'll get around to finishing it




my spare intake I ended up selling to JJ

 

Single afb

 

A cam with a 114 LSA really has no place in a low compression 283, it closes the intake valve too late, and won't have any cylinder pressure, hence, poor mid range torque. You can crutch it by advancing the hell out of it, but the disadvantage to doing that is then you move the beginning of the overlap cycle further into the exhaust stroke, which can lead you into reversion issues.
If it were me personally, And I wanted a hyd. cam, I would be looking for a single pattern hyd cam with about 221 @050 on a 108 LSA.
If I wanted to go to a solid, I would be looking for something about 228-230@050 on a 108 LSA.

 

I'm doing the progressive 3 2bbl. on my 57' 283 vs. 2 4bbl.. Great economy and won't "wash out" the rings when I put my foot in it.. Also, to really benefit from massive intake flow you have to have massive outake flow. How big & loud an exhaust system are you willing to use on the street?