I agree with this modification.. the crank swap would give you the “ holy grail” of SBC’s … the “Stroker” 307. Chevrolets only true factory installed stroker engine. The Z28 was a destroker. I also feel 2 Carter WCFB’s would be perfect in the top of it..
For $150?, I'd be all over those. I bought new 2 1/2 inch rams horns and paid $200 and that was several years ago. Looks like the heat riser valve is missing. You will need that or make up a spacer. This goes on the right side manifold, the one with longer studs.
Some engines shouldn't be stroked. Short-stroke, big-bore engines are designed to operate at high rpm, where they make power. The rod:stroke ratio provides better angle for reduced piston/ring & cylinder wear and slower piston speed. The longer rod also provides more dwell time at higher rpm, taking advantage of cam duration. There's nothing unique about turning a 283 into a 307 by using a 327 small-journal crank. A 350 crank can be used in a large-journal 327 block. The bore is the same for both engines, just as it is for 283/307-4.0 vs 3.875 Some have even bored a 283 block .125 get 302/327, depending on whether using 283/327 crank, but I don't recommend boring a 283 .125. Nevertheless, I don't think the OP is interested in building a stroker.
There are cases in which you can't improve upon what came from the factory. Different is not necessarily better.
i'll take that number, I haven't heard back. Also did you say you may have a bell housing from 55-57 V8 to 3 speed manual?
If you can't find an original 55 - 57 V8 bell housing, Lakewood makes a scattershield for 55 - 57 Chevys. New ones are pretty pricey, though. Lakewood 15003LKW: Blowproof Bellhousing 1955-1957 Chevy Full-Size Car - JEGS High Performance The original style Lakewoods used motor mount adaptor ears that bolted to the scattershield. Scroll down to post #5 in the following link for photos. Used Lakewoods for 55 - 57 Chevys show up on E-... from time to time. Might be easier to find a used Lakewood than an original stick bellhousing. switch from bellhousing to scattershield 57...newbie!! | Chevy Tri Five Forum I've been using a Lakewood in my 55 since i first built it in 1977. It was originally a 235 six with a PowerGlide. It still has the same 283 that I installed in 1977. However, I've rebuilt it a few times since then. Here's a video from a few years ago. Glory Days 2020 John Clothier vs Chuck Clothier - YouTube
Here is a photo of the mild 283 that I built for my 55 Cameo pickup. It was originally a 2 bbl. 283 out of a 1964 Impala. However, it came from the factory with Power-Pack heads. It's bored .030 over, (should have gone .060 over), with flattop pistons. I used the original heads but used a mid 1960's era Edelbrock C4B intake with a 650 cfm Holley with vacuum secondaries, (List #1850). Used a Mallory Unilite, and the cam is a replacement for a 300 Hp 327. The headers are Hooker Super Competition. I'm just finishing up the truck, so it only has about 150 miles on it so far. The trans is an original 3 speed over-drive with the stock 3:90 truck rear axle. This 283 was originally built as a mild street engine for my 60 Impala Sport Sedan. However, the Impala was sold so the 283 went into my Cameo. Yeah...Here's another video. It's the first start of the truck since 1996. Sounded pretty good with open headers. Cameo warm up - YouTube
I was always under the impression that corvette ram's horns were all 2.5 inch....until I got these from a neighbor when he put headers on his vette, they are 2 inch. When I cross checked the part number it indeed came back to corvette and spanned quite a few years. Did I mention that this 355 ci. with a 497 lift cam, two 600 cfm carbs set up 1-1 linkage, th350 and 4.11 gears gets 15.3 mpg road tripping at 3,000 rpm to do 55 mph
I think the OP has made up his mind to use the 283. There are a million ways to spend money on a project. The idea is to figure out which way will suit your wants/needs for the money you have to spend. If someone is bent on nostalgia, then they will probably spend the equivalent amount of money to have a certain look than they would spend to have actual performance. By that, I'm not just refering to straight line acceleration, but all around driveability, reliability, and even reasonable gas mileage. The point is that generally a basic engine to start building will cost a few hundred dollars. Doesn't matter if it a 283 or a 350. The machine work will cost the same, as well as all the basic parts to build and assemble it. All of the engines are going to be old enough that heads should be completely (guides etc) rebuilt.....again same cost for each. Generally a daily driver receives no benefit from being nostalgic, while opting for things like a broader torque band and a 5 speed transmission will give more performance, better gas mileage, and more enjoyable cruise speeds. It really comes down to which things someone wants to live with when actually driving their car. So costs will/should be essentially the same.......results will be vastly different.
Not to be a buzz kill but...if that's what it takes to keep this show going due to availability and cost, you either kill the membership to the club or you make allowances.
There’s additional costs with going “modern” as well. Wiring to suit, programming, fuel pump and additional lines, etc.
I mentioned it in another 283 thread recently. A few years back I pulled out the white board and compared engine builds. Trad SBC vs. LS w/Carb vs. LS w/EFI and rebuilt harness. They were all low buck DIY type builds, not crate motors etc. When it was all said and done ALL THREE engine combos came out at about the same $$$$ in the end.
Why does it take multiple posts to tell him you think he needs a crate motor? We get it really... we do
I just finished building a 283 just because i always wanted to build a little sbc. Used a 65 block and had a standard forged crank in the shed, Bored it .060 to 292. Used Eagle I beam rods and KB pop up pistons. Compression worked out to a little under 10 to 1 with a zero deck on the block and thin head gaskets. I used 305 HO heads for the bigger valves and 58 cc chambers + hardened exhaust seats I also blended the bowls and gasket matched them. The cam is a comp solid 488 int 501 ex dur. @50 is 230 236 on a 110 lobe center. I had an old Torker single plane with a 600 double pumper so I used that, may change to a C4B later. Bolted it to the run stand and broke it in, Its really snappy and you can tell it has compression for a little motor. Now what to do with it?
You are talking 1970s Caddy 500s dude, Not cheap and not traditional in ANY way. And your last Paragraph shows you are missing something about this board.
The Jalopy Journal
