Technical 283 running rough and hot

I'd be checking distributor for advance weights and springs working. Maybe stuck, vac advance broken? Pull, clean, inspect, lube etc. Likely lots of Google pages to follow to do this.

 

Ok awsome thanks mate

 

200 seems pretty warm considering it gets there within 30 minutes of drivin at 100kmh then moves up to 210.
Thanks for the rest of the information mate i will get onto that this weekend

 

T

Thanks mate i will look into all that, yes I wouldnt be as concerned if it didn't starting carrying on under load once it got hot

 

Yeah it runs great down the road mate just runs **** once it warms up. Thanks mate

 

Chokes zip tied open at the moment actually haha

 

Couple people have mentioned this, definitely sounds like a possible issue

 

Thanks for the info legend, the heat isn't really worrying its mainly when it gets hot it starts running rich/rough blowing black smoke etc

 

Have you checked the coil when it starts running rough? It could be getting hot and breaking down.

 

As stated. Find True TDC, reset timing, verify advance.
Unless you installed the cam - hard to tell if it was installed advanced or retarded at the timing set.

Also check your vacuum advance is working. Is it hooked to manifold or ported vacuum ?

Can you do a leakdown test, the equipment is under $50 in US, or can likely be rented at auto parts store.
"Heads redone - burnt valve - chewed up pushrod" ? Were the heads magnafluxed while they were off ?

.060 on a 283 is usually not an issue, but the block wall thickness vary depending on casting

200 F is not so bad - if it holds steady at that temp. Newer stuff runs much hotter intentionally.

 

Lean?

 

Could that cause it to run rich?

 

Its blowing black smoke out of the exhaust so i ***ume rich?

 

It starts to run rich once it gets to 200 degrees other then that it runs fine but a little rough on idle.
How do i check if the vacuum advance isn't working?

 

If it's breaking down, it could cause what would seem as a rich condition, due to incomplete combustion, because of low secondary voltage.

 

**** on it


Or vacuum pump

With the engine off, remove the distributor cap and use a vacuum hand pump to operate the advance mechanism. The diaphragm moves a rod that turns a sliding plate at the base of the distributor, which can be seen with the naked eye. A few pumps of a manually operated vacuum tester should provide a full advance, and the sliding plate should stay in place until you remove the vacuum from the port.

 

I will look into that mate thanks

 

Awsome i will suss that, thanks mate

 

Retarded or late timing would naturally send unburned fuel through the exhaust, burning later thru the other cylinder's combustion in the exhaust system. Raw gas burns black. You said the previous owner did sketchy ****, so it is possible a different timing chain cover was used during ***embly. Lots of "Heinz 57" SBCs out there. Pretty soon you end up trying to tune a house of cards. Here's a kinda redneck way of what direction to take. Tighten the distributor just enough to hold it, but yet you can still advance it with a bit of effort. Make it do what it does, hop out and advance it just a bit and see if it "cleans up" and runs better on the way back. If so you have a direction to correct it proper. Quite often overheating and rich running equals false timing. You do it all right but the results can't cooperate. Good luck, hope you'll let us know.

 

Thanks for the information mate

 

Hi Harleyv89, me again! You mentioned that you had the radiator flushed etc, but running hot as the car runs down the road can be caused by restarted timing as others have suggested but also as another HAMBer has suggested so ca not enough cooling. It’s time for some basic cooling checks. Water pump, thermostat, block flushed. It also sound like you have an aftermarket gauge fitted as the stock Aussie dash temp gauge doesn’t have numbers. So is the car getting that hot? The black smoke could be from a totally different cause, coil breaking down as suggested could be spot on. As others have suggested, someone else worked on this car, ***ume they were idiots. Everyone so far has offered really great advice so work through the steps, verify your timing marks, set timing, my 283 runs about 8-10 degrees advance and run good on our 91 octane. Check the vacuum advance works. Good luck and take your time. You’ll get this car sorted.
Cheers
Mark.

 

Hi mate!
New thermostat is in, water pump seems ok but is making noise at the pully now by the sounds, the coil is a **** one with the resistor on the outside of it, i have put a transcooler on so now it sits at about 200 but it is still missing underload (front right brake is now partially stuck on which isn't helping)
Timing is set at about 6 degrees advance i think? Is it 2 degrees per line?

 

Your right, each line represents two degrees. Have you actually confirmed that the the marker is correct? Can you post a photo of where the pointer? Also what carb are you using? Is the choke completely opening when the car gets warm. Also, are you still using points and condenser? I may have missed it if you stated this earlier. I only ask cause it related to the coil you’re using. Sorry it’s taken awhile to get back to you.
Cheers
Mark.

 

Hi mate, the choke is ever so slightly on would that make much of a difference?
The coil on it has a resistor on the outside so i have another with a built in resistor as i hear they can be a h***le. Its. Mess under here haha

 

replaced the coil and so far it seems to have stopped the misfiring when hot? But still seems to blow black when its warm

 

You have the wrong pulleys ,in the pictures you have some under driven aluminum pulleys,the crank should be way larger to overdrive the wp.

 

Hi again, if you look real close you’ll see a zero sorta in the middle of the timing tab. To the left of that zero ( counter clockwise) there is an “A”. That white mark on the pulley show be at 6 to 8 degrees on the “A” side of the zero when the number 1 piston is at tdc. You may already know this but I mention just in case. She does look a bit oily in there but let’s just deal with one issue at a time. I use a Bosch GT40R oil filled coil on mine. It’s an internal resistor coil suitable for points ignition. I don’t know if they are still available. Glad you got rid of the misfire. What carb do you use? The choke blade a little closed should not be a huge problem. Post a photo of how much it’s closed when the engine is at running temp. Check to see if the blade or linkage is hanging up some where.

 

I’ve used the internal resistor coil on my beast for a good while now and had no issues. It’s not a daily driver car so maybe it’s just not ready to give me grief yet. Back in my auto parts days we sold heaps of these coils and didn’t get much negative feedback from what I remember, but back then Bosch products were super reliable.

 

Hi mate,
thas the same coil i just put on and it has made it run alot better

 

Really? They were on it when i got it. Could you give me abit more information?