I've bought a 283 from BenD that needs to be bored .080 over. I'd like to run an Edelbrock C-4B intake, 600 cfm carb, Duntov solid lift cam, & Power Pack heads. This combination in my RPU was a little screamer. It was only bored .030 over though. How many cubic inches would the .080 bore give me? How much boring can a 283 stand? Will punching it .080 leave me with any overheating issues? Thanks, JH
295 some blocks can go .125" over. You should be able to go 80...but a sonic check will make sure. It won't overheat if you have big enough radiator
283 plus .080 283 is 3.875 bore 3.875 + .080 = 3.955 3.955 divided by 2 =1.9775 1.9775 squared is 3.91005063 3.910050063 multiplied by pie ( 3.1415927 ) is 12.285218 12.285218 X the stroke ( 3.00 ) is 36.855653 That is the cubic inches in 1 cylinder ...so ...multiply by 8 294.84522 cubic inches....... Randy
The Duntov cam is a mistake. Do a search on previous threads for more info. There are plenty of cams on the market that will give you better performance and reliability.
As I remember the folklore, the 010 castings were used for 283 and 327s therefore can be bored .125 over. I know we always looked for 010s to build 283 race motors. Someone else may have better info but sonic testing is always a good idea, ya don't know what rust may have done from the water side.
I have a '61 283 that is bored out .125 to a 301. My buddy run this engine in a '40 Ford coupe for several years with no overheating problems...using a stock '40 Ford radiator. I have it now and am planning on running dual quads on it and putting it in a Model A roadster some time in the near future. Fab 32 advised me a good all around cam for these engines would be a 327-350h.p. cam. He was a national champ for a couple of years running a 301 chevy so I believe he knows what he's talking about. It should give you a little more bottom end torque.
I've always used the formula "bore X bore X stroke X the number of cylinders X the constant .7854 = displacement". 4 X 4 = 16 X 3 = 48 X 8 = 384 X .7854 = 301.5936 By the way, I've got a still in the shipping tube, 140 service mechanical cam that would make the little*****er scream if you could find a set of edge orifice lifters and ran a stiff enough rear gear that it didn't fall flat on it's face before you got the Rs up. Probably take a C3BX and a 780 with a set of 4 tubes to get the job done at the very least though, as that thing was designed for the crossram and dual quads.
I run a cam with duration of Intake--270, exhaust-- 275, gross lift--intake 465, exhaust--460, with a 108 lobe seperation in my 283 bored.060. Has nice sound at idle and performs very well. one drawback is only around 10 inches of vacuum at idle.
The Duntov 097 camshaft is a factoty GM camshaft. They sound pretty good in a 283 and they run decent. He had one before........and so have I.... Mine worked out great in a 283 equipped 40 Ford.....with stock driveline.... He is doing the same........closed driveshaft and a 283. I believe he is trying to stay with ' period correct parts ' also....... They are reliable.......but you do have to keep the solid lifters adjusted....Poly-Locks or a stud girdle greatly reduce the lash adjusting.. .
Is there a link for those pistons, a retailer or internet source. I have a 59 283 block and that would solve many problems for me also
80 over pistons are hard to find. the difference between 80 over and 60 over(pistons easy to find) is not enought to worry about. kinda like 292 and 294 if it will clean up at 60 over way to go
Deuce Roadster is right the 097 Duntov cam is a great cam for a small displacement SBC. It was the first performance grind of any significance for the small block and was used for both single and dual 4 bbl. and early injection applications. It's a solid grind and like Randy states you've got to keep the lifters adjusted for it to perform up to spec. It's also a relatively hard cam to find today unless you know where to look. The reason I recommend the 327/350hp grind as a good CHEVROLET cam is the fact its a hydraulic so the frequent adjustments aren't required and it makes a ton more mid range than the famous .030/.030 Duntov grind that was available in the high performance 327's. With all of that said there are many grinds available today that will do a better job than any of these and a call to your favorite cam grinder's tech line will get you something to maximize your combination. Frank
Hmm... I run a mechanical Engle can with 238°@0.50 and 0.491 lift, in my 295. Glad no one told my engine it's overcammed.
Yes. I don't doubt that camshaft technology has come a long way since '57, but I have run the 097 Duntov in 283s, and had no problem with it on the street. Think about it; even though it was a performance cam, Chevrolet was not going to put a barely streetable camshaft in production cars in 1957. The customer complaints wouldn't have been worth it in terms of lost sales. Now, the "30-30" cam of '64-'69 is another story. My older brother put one in his '62 Impala in 1970, and soon learned what "no low end" meant! Stock '49 Chevies could beat him from 0-30.
One of the reasons the 097 cam worked so well in the little 283 adapted to the early Ford drive train is the fact that most likely the Ford rear was a 3.78 or 4.11. If you are going to build a small CI high winding engine, you need the gears to make it work. I don't think Chevrolet ever put their Hi Perf. small motors up against an automatic. A 4 speed is ideal. Keep it in it's RPM range. baby I was surprised when a local cam grinder knew exactly what I was talking about when I asked about the 097 and he had the pattern! It's a famous cam. The L-79 327-350 cam didn't come out until 1965.(a great cam) Prior to that you needed solid lifters to get a real HP Chevrolet cam. I like that extra little clatter of a solid lifter cam. I still have my rocker arm clips in my tool box that let you adjust the valves without oil squirting all over the fenders...somewhat. I'm sure there are much better cams today but they will never have the romance of the 3 Chevrolet cams mentioned above. Just build the rest of the car to take advantage of their design.
Like Tommy said so well........ There are better camshafts available..... Just like disc brakes are better than 56 F100's, The F100s are better than 40 - 48 Ford brakes....and so on But we still hunt for old brakes, straight axles and F100 steering boxes
Randy is correct. I'm looking at a closed driveline, "period correct", engine swap. I don't know when I'll build the engine but I'm collecting parts. I won a C-4B intake just last night. I haven't given up on my Flathead but, considering my driving style and desire to travel, the SBC may be a better choice. I had a Duntov cam'ed 283 in my RPU with a '39 trans, torque tube, and a 3.78 geared '40 rear end. The stinkin' car would flat fly. From 0 to over 100 it was an absolute screamer. Thanks for the info guys. I'm not stupid enough to rule out a better option but would like to stay fairly true to what GM offered "back in the day". JH
So does anyone know of a source for .080 over 283 pistons? I have a nice shape 283 that is already .060 and is worn too much for a quick hone and re-ring. I would rather go .080 and not all the way to .125 over, especially as mine is a 66 block and supposedly it has thinner walls than the earlier blocks. Or anyone have a nice small journal 327 block? I could go with a 301/302.....
That's a sharp engine, Harrison! I love period-correct equipment. If I may***** in here a moment - we've discussed the 30-across Duntov, the 097 Duntov and the L79 cam (which I've got in a 327 and can vouch for). What about the 365hp 327 Corvette cam - solid lifter cam used with the single Holley as well as the FI (don't remember the horsepower on that). Is that the same as the 30/30 Duntov? Seems like that would be a decent, streetable solid grind.
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