You need thicker skin than that on this board if you are going to let someone get to you so easy mr. Internet tough guy.
Since this has been mentioned several times in this thread, but no pix, here is the Snow White (Fresno, CA) shorty water pump conversion using the Opel 1.9L diecast water pump. This is the Cleveland version, but similar to the Windsor setup. Pepper Snow and Ron White are good people - long time hot rodders. This makes the 289/302W and 351C the same length as the SBC, but narrower, so there are no more excuses for not putting one in a Ford.
If you have a little time and a die grinder you can port out the exhaust on the old 69-71 351 Windsor heads. They came with bigger valves and will bolt on a 289-302. Have to use the 351 intake gasket and use hardened washers under the head bolts as the Windsor's have larger bolts. Arp makes some special for the conversion now I believe. I've done a couple with Chevy valves and been happy with the results. I've used the early 260-289 front cover and water pump assembly's on a couple also. It's a little shorter but you have to scrounge around to find pulley's to line up. Think I used Buick water pump pulley and turned off the last groove on the double crank pulley on the last one I did. The Snow White set up looks nice, what does it cost? I couldn't find a price on their webpage.
You didn't say OEM heads. You said "One of the sore points of a SBF is the unavailability of a decent cylinder head. " And that's what I was calling BS on. You don't need aftermarket aluminum heads. They also sell cast iron heads. And it's not that difficult to make just about any SBF cylinder head perform with some simple porting. "Modifying" is part of hot rodding. And as far as my Mother goes she's been dead for 10 years so I can't ask her if she taught me any manners. Maybe you should talk to yours and see if she can't teach you some since your the one calling people names.
MY MY, did we get up on the wrong side of the bed.. Go back a read what you wrote before you call people names ASSHOLE......I have a 289 in my 33 and it runs great. The heads or 302 4 barrel castings and have been ported and had bigger valves and dual springs put on them....The dual carb tunnel ram with 450 holleys is really to much for the small engine......
If you use the ford short drive kit, remember..no mechanical fuel pump. No big deal, just sayin. As for heads, the E7's on my 46 work just fine, thank you.
LOL So sensitive. You can buy a set of brand-new iron heads from World or Ford that will wake one up for around $800 complete and ready to bolt on. If you do some shopping on Mustang sites, you will probably catch a great deal on a set of used aftermarket heads. I see the TFS heads going for around $500 complete fairly often. That's a lot of performance for cheap. I have a stock '66 Mustang 289/C4 in my '57 Plymouth wagon, no complaints at all. It likes the 3.73 gearing for moving that tank.
In my opinion the 289/302/351 Windsor style engines respond quite well to hot rodding, and counter to popular opinion are really not that expensive to build. Yea, a little more than a similar SBC when doing a "budget build", but the costs get closer and closer as the respective builds become "more technical". I had ALWAYS been a Chevy guy untill my son got himself a Mustang and we had to build a 351, (my First Ford build!). I was impressed enough with the little 408 that I pulled the 402 BBC out of my 39 and I am building a 408W for it now, (thus my moniker). Aftermarket aluminum heads are available from about $700 a pair for import assembled heads (valves, springs, retainers) and about $1,200 or $1,400 a pair for assembled domestic heads, (i.e. Edelbrock, etc.) While it can be argued that there are not many good stock performance heads available for these engines, and I do agree with this contention to some degree, but folks will have to admit that some of the old 5.0 Mustangs ran pretty good stock, and even some of the older Mustangs equipped with these engines were not too bad either. Some of the GT-40 heads used on some 90s Explorers are touted to be able to provide some cheap performance gains. So, IMO fit can be a consideration when figuring Ford vs. Chevy, and cost MAY be a consideration if a person is on on a tight budget, but in my estimation cost is only about 10% higher on a SBF vs. SBC... All in all, there are some minor points where a SBC has advantage over a SBF, and in other cases the reverse is true. Bottom line is that both of them are really good reliable engines.
The small block ford engine family is a good base for any motor build. Anymore parts are available everywhere and if you're looking for good performance articles, go and pick up and of the current mustang magizines. they are a wealth of info and parts.. I'd like to really piss some people off and drop a ford into a chevy...... oh that'd be a great day
I saw a nice 57 Chevy truck at cruisin the coast a couple of years ago with a 289 Ford in it. The Ford guy found the roller truck cheap and used the 289 he had for power. I'd like to really piss some people off and drop a ford into a chevy...... oh that'd be a great day[/QUOTE]
Things that are cool about small block Fords..... : lower attachment point of cylinder walls is much farther up than most engines providing greater support in the areas of piston travel. : 20 deg valve incline angle versus 23 degs for the basic sbc. giving a tighter combustion chamber. : headbolt holes are blind and evenly spaced giving an even pull all the way around the cyls. : come stock with a camshaft thrust plate positively controlling cam walk. : ignition is driven at the proper end of the camshaft. Skeptics can check out GM's new balls out NASCAR engine to see if that is right. : two deck heights with which to build a rotating assembly with decent rod length to stroke ratio. : plenty of crankcase room for a big stroker arm with minor clearancing. : 221, 260, 289, 302 engines have one of the lightest yet strong stock rotating assemblies of any common engine family out there.
I put together a 66 289 for my project. While all these ford people are on this thread I would like to know what spark plugs would you use? It's 30 over, 10 to 1, moderate lunati cam (460 or so lift). Got two edlebrock 500s on a cobra intake. Im going with a dual point. The part store says r 45. Is that what you would use?
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